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Have the bushings out of the frame for the brake crossover tube and the seat post. What's the best way to install new ones? Freeze the bushings and then heat that portion of
the frame in order to press in the bushing?
I get grade 8 all thread of various sizes with nuts and washers from the local hardware store, and the correct size bushing drivers. (Lowes, ACE or Home Depot usually have this). Freeze the bushings and use a paint stipper heart gun to head the hard metal. And if it were me, I press each bushing one at a time because it has always worked better for me. And it's easier to control the cold and hot temps when working with one side at a time.
I'd bet your local Harbor Freight has busing drivers for a good price.
Got the bushings installed in the brake crossover tube and reamed to size. Have a new Jim's left case race I am going to have pressed in and this begs the next question. These are mismatched left and right cases. Do I assume that they are NOT aligned and need to be line bored?
Only reason for asking is that the top of the cases where the cylinders sit is absolutely flat between the case halves. I even installed the cylinders to see if there was and rockers movement front to back or side to side. Absolutely zero. So my thought is once I have the race in place, do a dry assembly of the crank and see if there is any binding as I turn the crank. Good idea or bad idea?
Last edited by panz4ever; Apr 29, 2025 at 12:45 PM.
If it were mine, I'd do a very light lap on the races to see if they are aligned and true. You will know very quickly if it is, so it's not like you are trying to resize the race. If the cam cover isn't a match with the right case, check the bearing and bushing alignment too.
The new races I've bought are always undersize and require more than a light lap to get up to standard. I bought the tool to align hone them, went through that on the 46 recently.
So I installed the cam, gear cover and thrust washer to get an idea of fitment (no spacing washer). Once the cover was in place, the cam would not move. Removing the thrust washer is the only way I could get movement. Obviously that is not right. Checked the intermediate and idler gear and they move just fine. So, it seems that the deck height of either the case bushing or cam cover bushing is incorrect? Never encountered this issue before ('course I never used mis-matched cases either).
And one more question. The bottom of the lifter block bases have bronze locating pins in them that align the block to the top of the heads. I am missing few. I cannot find a part number for them. Anyone with a part number for them or a few they want to sell?
Last edited by panz4ever; May 5, 2025 at 04:03 PM.
The older parts catalogs I have are getting hard to read. Best I can come up with is 12013A. But an internet search for that number list it for a 1965-E84. I suspect it is the same seal used in later (ratchet top) 4 speeds.
The gastket and seal kit part number comes back as 33031-36. That part number is superceded by 33031-70 and James Gaskets indicates their kit will work for 1936-1984, all 4 speed trans. https://www.jamesgaskets.com/product...t-transmission
I'll dig through my trans seals tomorrow and see what I have. If you have it out, measure the ID, OD and thickness. Many people like to use a Super nut along with a new seal.
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