Countless engines rebuilt with Dixie rods ( and cylinders) back in the day
Nothing to worry about

 

Gentlemen - thanks for the reassurance on the rod kit. I'll have more requests for recommendations on parts when I see what needs replacement during tear-down. I don't recall but think that I have got meat in the jugs to go .020" over if needed.

TwiZted - just 70 pounds? Cool. I can easily lift that onto the bench w/o hauling the engine stand into the garage--which I think the mice out back would resent...

I was looking at Max's very nice engine stand, which looks homemade, and need to compare the cost of a length of angle iron to a pre-fab stand. I think I saw one that bolts to a traditional auto engine stand, which I have, so might go that route... Only downside I can think of is it'd take up more floor space in garage, as opposed to setting a stand on my (small) work bench...?

 

You can make one out of wood too. 2x6 and 2x8 uprights on a piece of plywood. You need a small metal plate on one side


.

 

Oh, cool, I will scope out the wood pile in addition to seeing what scrap steel I might have lying around. Thanks!

 

Oops…had to delete my first response. I thought this was about the **** sets going for the record.

 

My Father-in -Law made this stand with angle steel probably 40 years ago. Many motors have been rebuilt on that stand, now my '59 is using it. Came with the house.

 

FWIW, I removed the heads from my Shovel and lifted the cylinders and cases out of the frame onto a stand by hand. No problem. I'll have to think more about that when putting it back in because I want to be sure I don't damage the new coating on the frame while doing that. The last time I put a Shovel back in a frame I wrapped all the frame tubes with pipe insulation to protect them and I'll likely do the same this time.

If you remove the cylinders, it would be that much easier. Which is what I may do when putting the cases back in the frame.

Paul

 

Oh, nice, thanks for the photo. That's kind of what I was envisioning, as it'd only require purchase of a single length of angle iron from Home Depot (looks like I don't have any lying around, after all). I think maybe the only thing I'd do differently is have a couple of pieces that extend out beyond the engine cases toward the right and left (speaking in motorcycle terms), to make it less tippy...?

Also: I guess I could just put a cookie sheet underneath to catch drips. I feel like I've seen one that had an integral drip pan...

 

Not tippy at all, keep in mind the motor is heavy. A pan was a good idea, always dripping something.

 

Nice. That's what I'll do. I had it torn down to that stage (plus the timing cover and oil pump) when I bought it, to check rod shake. I never removed the bottom end because it was in spec, though just barely. At least now, if I do a good job, it'll be likely to last as long as I will.