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The Second Coming

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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 09:09 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by pgreer
Yeah, those sprial type wrist pin retainers are a pain to remove. They are use once, so perhaps it's best they are rendered that way during removal.

Installation isn't a walk in the park either, so the install tool will come in handy. Paul
What I’m wondering is whether without the notch that evidently appeared in OEM pistons, the tool won't work for installation, either?

I’m also wondering what would be wrong with simply replacing them with regular circlips?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2025 | 09:57 AM
  #52  
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They make a tool for spiral pin locks: Lock-in tool. But it doesn’t come in .791” unfortunately.

However, this guy shows how to do it without such a tool...


So, looks like the tool I bought is for OEM-style pistons with the notch, but simply expanding the coil appears to make it easy to install them. I ended up using the method he shows for removal, but stumbled onto it myself by trial-and-error.

Anyway, should be easy to install now that I know you just expand the coil. BTW, the special tool requires you to expand the coil in order to insert it into the tool’s head, so very little benefit to the expensive tool, frankly…
 
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Old Apr 16, 2025 | 04:37 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by pgreer
Yeah, those sprial type wrist pin retainers are a pain to remove.

Wait till you try the ones on a flathead..

GRR.

 
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Old Apr 16, 2025 | 09:29 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by eighteight
Wait till you try the ones on a flathead..

GRR.
OMG they’re even worse? Yikes…

I opened the timing chest to drain and siphon out the nasty oil, and there were no large pieces, just very fine silvery grains. The cam, lifters, cam spindle and big bushes in the timing cover looked fine (amazingly). So, just shined up the cover and reinstalled it.

After installing timing cover, I added a gauge to the pump, which required bending up and flaring a new line to avoid the dial. This is mainly to reassure myself of oil pressure during initial startup, but may as well put something there as the idiot light senders are useless...

I cleaned up the combustion chambers, and my DIY valve job looks fine (this photo is before I prepped the mating surfaces).

Tool to R&R the wrist pin bushes is arriving late, so won’t have her running for at least another week.




 
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Old Apr 16, 2025 | 09:39 AM
  #55  
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Cylinders are ready to go, laid down a nice cross-hatch. I’ve decided to go with cast pistons this time around, as that seemed to be the best advice for a street (non race) bike.

Question: the V-Twin cast pistons do not have an indicator as to the front, only ’STD’ and a little circular recess on the crowns. Is the circular recess an orientation indicator of some sort?

The only thing I’ve read is that the side with the shorter dimension should have its skirt toward the exhaust side. Is that right? My measurements from the edge of the wrist pin holes to the outside of the skirt come up virtually identical…maybe a few thousandths different.






 

Last edited by NM Pan-shovel; Apr 16, 2025 at 09:44 AM.
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Old Apr 16, 2025 | 09:56 AM
  #56  
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The dimple on the piston top goes toward the gear case.

Paul
 
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Old Apr 16, 2025 | 09:58 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by pgreer
The dimple on the piston top goes toward the gear case.

Paul
Thank you, Paul. Now, if that darned tool would just arrive…
 
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Old Apr 16, 2025 | 05:18 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by pgreer
The dimple on the piston top goes toward the gear case.

Paul
Ouch! I may have them installed backwards on my Pan.. I though they went to the sparkplug side...
 
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Old Apr 16, 2025 | 06:05 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
Ouch! I may have them installed backwards on my Pan.. I though they went to the sparkplug side...
Well, how’s she running?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2025 | 06:11 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by NM Pan-shovel
Well, how’s she running?

I got 4 speeds in reverse...

The only issue I have is that the front piston rattles when the motor is cold.. Not sure if it's related or simply too loose.
 
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