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Amazing work.. You used 5052 on the headlight bracket also? Did you precut the mounting tabs on the side of the rim? About the only thin metal work I've done a instrument buckets / bracket.
Thanks vey much. I crossed my fingers and got lucky . My first piece was the dash as well.
Yes, 5052-H32 in .050 for both, McMaster 12 x 12 piece. Thicker might have torn around the sharp edge of the dumbell male die and perhaps broken the oak female along its grain. Lots of pressure from the press. Also, finish hammering with el cheapo HF body and fender kit hammer was a breeze with 5052 in .050. Smooth face on the hammer nets clean radius & edge.
Right, as you can see, I precut the headlight ring blank to blueprint the aiming tabs location. They engage other piece in subsequent photos
Note with precut blank featuring precisely located tabs, you need central hole to keep it centered (I used a socket bolted to die). I had guessed this was necessary and when I did the air cleaner lid, which of course couldnt have a central hole, I had to reposition the sheet twice during press.
The aimer has a dynamic spring at the bottom for the adjuster clevis (red), and a static (conical) spring at top (green) to prevent rattling and hold adjustment. To my amazement, it works even with the Unit 650s 360 degree crank..
Last edited by NM Pan-shovel; Apr 17, 2025 at 07:46 PM.
Turns out the forged pistons are lighter than cast Ive decided to keep them, have my old cylinders bored to fit, oil them up and put them on the shelf. Right now, Ive got a new top end that together with the ready-to-go .030 over backup should last until Im old and gray.
The Sifton pin bushing tool is far cheaper than the other offerings, but works brilliantly. I had imagined using my adjustable reamer set but it was miserable going. So, ordered a dedicated reamer (Sifton), which will pay for itself first time out of the tool chest. Patient all ready for surgery, but another week delay
BTW, I found this dash gasket, which is far superior to the plain U-channel sold by the usual suspects. Stays put on the dash rather than falling off, and looks like itll seal better, too.
Dude…. Respect. I was pretty pleased with myself welding up exhaust, making fenders and my own bars for my Shovel… but that headlight bezel/mount is just genius.
Loving all this, tech head **** at it's finest. Saw those wrist pin bushing reamers in somebody clearance section cheap and for the life of me can't remember where now. Made the tool long ago.
Dude . Respect. I was pretty pleased with myself welding up exhaust, making fenders and my own bars for my Shovel but that headlight bezel/mount is just genius.
Oh, man, thanksbut I think youre too kind. I only wish I had a TIG machine to weld up a custom exhaust, something that looked like the Brough Superior SS pipes shown here . and making fenders? Wow.
Anyway, working with aluminum is very forgiving. Eventually, I will bend up the sissy bar and ditch the rack for a p-pad, and that will mean welding up those bolt holesand I suspect well quickly run into the limits of my skillset.
Loving all this, tech head **** at it's finest. Saw those wrist pin bushing reamers in somebody clearance section cheap and for the life of me can't remember where now. Made the tool long ago.
Well, Im gratified youre getting pleasure out of it. I find this stuff fun but it often feels like nobody around these parts appreciates it much.
Damn I probably shouldve looked harder for a sale on the reamer, but its always worth buying a tool youre gonna use more than once...
Lemme ask you something: do you like to drive the Sifton tool (stock pic) slowly by hand or with moderate speed using a motor? It looks like the valve guide spiral flute reamers Ive used before, and I've just stuck them in a drill and got good results.
What Im seeing confirms what TwiZted said (no surprise there, obviously): a modern forged (low expansion) Harley piston will run quietly, with the rings lasting a long time, if set up with .0045 clearance.
Update: now Im seeing .006 and even more recommended for TRW forged pistons. Hmmm this may not be worth the headaches.
TwiZted: one poster who has used them said that a.016" gap for the top two rings is about right. Is that what youd recommend? For some reason, I had .012 in my head.
Paul: I dont mind letting her warm up a little while before heading out. (The Beemer airhead is so cold-blooded, I have to go inside for coffee before its ready to ride.)
Sorry I'm late back into this got busy with life a while. Off the top I use whatever the manufacturer recommends for ring gap, spec does vary a bit from brand to brand. I don't trust memory for anything when building, I'll reference EVERYTHING down to torque values I know by heart.
Well, Im gratified youre getting pleasure out of it. I find this stuff fun but it often feels like nobody around these parts appreciates it much.
Damn I probably shouldve looked harder for a sale on the reamer, but its always worth buying a tool youre gonna use more than once...
Lemme ask you something: do you like to drive the Sifton tool (stock pic) slowly by hand or with moderate speed using a motor? It looks like the valve guide spiral flute reamers Ive used before, and I've just stuck them in a drill and got good results.
You have a lathe, slowest speed and run them through. Things are assembled I'll do them by hand so I can feel any tightness, maybe a hair misaligned kinda deal. Valve guides cast or bronze, power tool, big 1/2" IR air drill. Love my Neway set for seat cutting.
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Love my Neway set for seat cutting.
