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As Max mentioned, the wrist pins are not off center. But that isn't always the case, I've seen many KB pistons (including shovel/pan) with wrist pins off center so it's always good to check the documentation.
I have seen on some pistons with a relief cut on the front piston skirt for the rear pistng and the back of the front skirt. I believe the idea was to ensure enough clearance that the skirts to come in contact at the bottom of the stroke.
Paul
Agreed. I did measure the wrist pin holes and couldnt discern a difference. I also measured the valve relief pockets and those seemed to be the same (Pacific Mike was installing pistons with fore-aft arrows on them and different-sized reliefs). Nevertheless, although these pistons lack the notch inside one hole to enable use of the OEM snap ring installation tool, they do feature the webbing on the insides mentioned in the Harley manual (and Clymers), which is supposed to face the timing cover or R/H side of the bike. The skirts appear symmetrical, too.
So, perhaps V Twin Mfg. decided to make them essentially interchangeable to avoid installation errors? I dunno
Anyway, its a nice day, so out to the shop to install the cylinders!
The hard parts done (excuse the dust and greasy fingerprints everywhere).
That intake manifold O-ring eliminator kit (which I think I posted about earlier) is seriously beefy and Ill not miss worrying about whether the O-ring is sealing well, but its a PITA to install. I dont know how you could do it without R&Ring one head (rear would be best IMHO), a second pair of hands, and adding a slight bend to the T-bolt clamp on the rear flange to get things started, as it has to be wrapped around the rubber after slipping the front one on complete. Luckily, the PO was home and eager to help.
Hope to finish reassembly tomorrowget to install the new bespoke air cleaner I made upand well see how she runs
Okay. Got her all together (this is prior to tanks and dash, obviously), poured in some (premium 91 octane) gas, kicked her over. Great compression, engine turns smooothly… but no start.
I got kicked back violently at least once, and a couple of times netted a backfire through the carb.
Despite setting it up per the e-Beyond instructions—#1 (front) cylinder on compression stroke, ease timing mark to middle of the hole, align the white lines on rotor and sensor—might these particular symptoms mean the timing is too far advanced?
Or should the timing mark be just appearing at the rear of the hole? That, however, would mean the timing was farther advanced, wouldn’t it…? Maybe I’m getting that backward…
Anyway, I don’t recall this difficulty when I first installed the e-Beyond, but then it’s been a while. I might have fiddled with the timing, notwithstanding Ed's ’set it and forget it’ instructions…
Last edited by NM Pan-shovel; Apr 25, 2025 at 08:13 PM.
The OEM manual I have in PDF shows that, indeed, for an FL like mine, I was supposed to have the timing mark just appearing at the rear of the hole. I’ve got it at the center, which appears to be for the XL and XLH.
I will adjust and try again manana. Maybe that’s all I’m doing wrong…
Last edited by NM Pan-shovel; Apr 25, 2025 at 08:31 PM.
Well, I adjusted the timing—which was just a wee bit off. However, while kicking her over, the carb overflowed—with a brand new viton-tipped needle valve installed. So, next day I have free time I will double-check the float height (I could’ve sworn it was correct) and see what’s up with the needle valve. It was sealing very positively when I checked it, so not sure what’s going on…
In other news, the PO called me this afternoon to ask if I was interested in a long-dormant ’62 Panhead.
Evidently, one of his old pipe-fitting colleagues (and drinking buddies) outside of El Paso died and his wife told him the bike has been sitting for nearly a decade in the shed under a parachute (?!). My neighbor and PO (of my bike) says his memory is his buddy's bike is 100% stock and all there—or was, last time he stayed at his friend’s house many years ago, when they R&R’d the throwout bearing and did a clutch on it. Blue and white, or blue with a white seat, per his ’somewhat polluted' recollection. Widow doesn’t want it to go to just anyone so wants my neighbor to have it, but he’s too old to ride, so thought of me.
So... I’m teetering. I enjoy the Pan-Shovel but the idea of a bone-stock ’62 is very appealing to me because apparently the only non-stock item is a cop-style windshield, and I’d like to be able to ride year-round for grocery runs into town. Somehow, a windshield just hasn’t seemed right with the Pan-Shovel’s aesthetic.
On the other hand, I don’t physically have room for two Harleys, so if I decide to pick up the ’62, then this ’51 Pan-Shovel will be up for sale.
Paul - yes, there is no external filter due to the fine screen in the high-quality petcock. But thats really not a good practice. Ill drop the bowl and check it out, and add an external filter.
Gentlemen - I really do think Id buy it, even though as a new social security pensioner with a very modest nest egg I am hardly rolling in dough. I mean, how many more chances will I have to buy a vintage Harley before I kick the bucket?
As for room, its literally a zero sum game: I just couldnt fit another motorcycle in the garage, so would have to sell the 51 FL. Well, I could put the car outside permanently but with the mice and NM sun, itd deteriorate rapidly if I did thatand I am planning on never buying another car, if I can default to a motorcycle for most errands.
But I shouldve pointed out that I cant afford two vintage Harleys, either. The Pan-Shovel would pay for the 62 Pan, all or part.
The PO bought a newish King Family F250, so were evidently heading south in May to see whats what.
Last edited by NM Pan-shovel; Apr 27, 2025 at 08:47 AM.
...If the [Panhead] is backfiring through the carb, the fuel/air mix is igniting before the intake valve is fully closed, which implies that your ignition timing is too advanced.
That would seen to be exactly what is happening. In my case, I have the eBeyond (Pertronix-style sensor) ignition in an aftermarket auto-advance distributor. The maker, Ed, says to position the engine per the manual, then proceed as follows: (i) in my case, timing mark just beginning to appear in the hole with no. 1 cylinder on compression stroke; (ii) align the mark on the sensor with the mark on the magnet; (iii) tighten down the dizzy and youre done.
However, at least with my aftermarket auto-advance distributor (the springs and weights seem to be moving freely and returning nicely), doing so appears to put the bike in a too far advanced positionbecause it does kick back, backfire through the carb, and refuse to start.
So: if the above quote is accurate regarding the symptoms of excessive initial advance, then what I think Ill do is ignore Eds instruction and set up the timing as I normally would have done with pointsi.e., put the timing mark & no. 1 cylinder where they should be, then use a static light to set the initial advance, and see how that compares to aligning the marks.
Im hoping that will solve the hard-starting issue and stop the kick backs. Frankly, I cant recall but may have encountered this error when I first installed the eBeyond and just worked through itthen just forgot about the difficulty and failed to make a note.
Last edited by NM Pan-shovel; Apr 27, 2025 at 02:44 PM.
Also: evidently, if the intake pushrod is set too tight (I have solid lifters), the same phenomenon can happen, re: backfiring through the carb. So, I will double check my valve adjustments—luckily, easier to do on this engine than anything I’ve ever owned…
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