So I got the bike, and it's pretty damn cool. No surprises yet.............well except for the fact that the throttle grip and the clutch don't spring back. So my first question, how do I turn on the ignition? Which key position is on, why the key is turned parallel to the long axis of the bike or perpendicular to it? Is there a secondary switch on the handle bars? I'm guessing it's the left hand switch opposite the horn? If so which position is on?

Also what the hell is that pump thing on the left hand gas tank? It's a small brass **** near the gas cap.

I'm sure in time I'll figure all this out, but I just got the bike a half hour ago, I can't mess with it cause I'm at work, pretending to work, and not able to look all this up.

Kenny

 

Kenny

I think you would get a lot more answers with some more info, kind of bike, fuel injected/carb ,year, etc.

Did you get an owners manual or factory manual with it. If not , it is a great investment.

 

Ooops good point. The bike is a 1961 FLH Panhead. Still has it's original six volt system and original carb.

 

congradulations!!!! correct me if i'm wrong, but that little brass thing is your choke, and for the ignition switch my 59 pan is one click to the right for engine and brake light, and two clicks for the headlight and tail light. straight up and down,right in the middle for off. hope this helps. your gonna love this bike.

 

The pump (brass ****) on the top of your left tank is the petcock. I can't remember the positions for on and reserve but that's what it is. As far as your ignition goes I believe that one click to the right is on and the 2nd click to the right is on with lights.

I'm not sure if I still have my manual for my 59 but I will check later.

 

Terry has you set up on the ignition switch. Of course that is assuming no one has messed with the wiring in the couple hunnert years since the bike was made! You should have 2 switches on the bars, one for the horn, and one for the dimmer switch. The throttle doesn't return because that's how it was made. Your throttle cable is a solid wire that is routed inside the handle bar. The brass **** on the left tank is the petcock. Main supply is on when plunger is unscrewed, but not raised. Reserve is plunger unscrewed and raised. Off is with plunger down and tightened finger-tight. Clutch - is this a hand clutch or foot clutch? Original foot clutch is a rocker clutch and it will not return. If it's a hand clutch, and is still original, you have a "Hand Clutch Booster Control", usually called a "mousetrap". The mousetrap is located on the left frame downtube. That's where I would suspect the problem of the lever not returning lies. Adjusting it can be a somewhat tedious process, and you really need a service manual with pictures. The little beastie has about 15 gazillion parts!

 

If you have trouble with the carb leaking gas the brass **** on the tank is one of the first places to look. There is a tool that aligns the top & bottom holes so the petcock lines up and shuts off most of the fuel. If you need a replacement stay away from the junk that V twin sells....

 

All posts above = good info. I highly recommend that you purchase a Manual for that year of Pan. It will tell you everything you need to know plus more. It will be very valuable.
Foot Clutch when at "heel" position (disengaged) should NOT return.....it should remain in the "heel" position....especially when the engine is running. As you commence to rock it to the "Toe" position (engage) ; about half way thru the travel is when you should feel the spring helping it go into the engaged position.

 

The ignition switch is in the off possition when it is straight up and down! Turn it to the left and you are in the accessories mode, which should turn on your tail light and front fender light if you have one, Turn the key one click to the right of straight up and down is the ignition position to start the bike. No lights in this position. Turn two klicks to the right of straight up and down is the light circuit. The gas shut off on the left tank is off when screwed all the way down. It is on when screwed out but not lifted. Lift it all the way up and it will be on reserve. If it does not stay in the up position then you will need to replace the o-ring under the cap.

 

I am assuming your bike is stock? When I read your first post I understand that your brass **** is your fuel shut off and not a choke ****. this year of Pan should have the choke located on the left side below the left tank and between the cylinders. It should be a little lever the pivots up and down. The just call it the choke flapper. Anyway when it's in the up position the carb not being choked. when you push it down you are in full choke position which is what you want for a cold start. Put the bike into nuetral and place the clutch pedal in the forward down position ( This will engage your clutch).Make sure you have gas in the tank and the gas shut off is turned on. Push the che choke lever down, turn the spark retard grip about a half revolution away from you. Now kick the motor over three times. Now reset the choke lever to the fully up position or open position and then back down one click.. Now bring the motor up on it's compression stroke ( you can tell this when the kicker arm offers some resistance ). Twist the thottle grip open or back about a half turn, Now turn the ignition switch to the on position ( one klick to the right ) and stomp on kick pedal. It should fire! It may not start running the first time you try this but don't give up. Kick it several times! If it fires off you should imediately advance the spark ( turn the left grip back towards you and leave it there. Let the motor run at a fast idle for a minute then open the choke up the rest of the way. Try not to let the motor over reve when it fires off. If this all does'nt work the first time then start over again.
Since you say you have a tank shifter then you have( If the bike is stock ) a friction or rocker clutch. The reason it does not return is because it has a friction disc that will hold it in what ever position you place it. This is commonly ( Incorrectly I might add ) called a suicide clutch. A suicide clutch got it's name from the guys who would take that friction disk out so the rocker or clutch pedal would return automatically. The suicide part came when they would take the front brake off the bike as in the early choppers. When the came to a stop on an up or down hill grade the had one foot on the rear brake pedal and one foot on the clutch pedal and no feet on the ground to hold the bike up. So they would shift into neutral, roll to a stop using the rear brake and their left foot on the ground and when it came time to go it was a quick and hopefully smooth transition from left foot on the ground to right foot on the ground and left foot on the cltuch, quick shift into gear and all this while you were rolling backward or forward on a down hill slope. The term jocky shift came about when the shift lever was moved from the tank or foot position to a lever atached directly to the transmission lid.
Hope some of this helps or at least makes sense. Gotta go buy a lottery ticket now!