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Another Panhead starting question.

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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 12:21 PM
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Default Another Panhead starting question.

I've got a '48 Panhead and unlike the previous thread, I've had the bike for over 30 years. It's got the original 6v system and has always started easily. My proceedure has always been to open the gas valve, close the choke all the way, kick it 3-4 times with the key off, open the choke 3-4 clicks, turn the ignition switch on and kick. It would usually start the first or second kick, rain or shine.
Now it has become hard to start when cold. It still starts with one kick after it is warm.
I've cleaned and adjusted the points, cleaned and gapped the plugs and checked the timing and still no improvement. I've got fresh gas with Sta Bil in it and it's kept on a battery minder when not in use.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. My knee is sore from kicking her over so many times.
FL54
 
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 02:16 PM
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How old are the plugs/wires?

Seems like you have the timing portion covered...last time you changed out condensor?

Last time you adjusted pushrods?

Checked to see you have full voltage on the battery?
 
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 07:05 PM
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Thanks for reply. I think I found the problem although I don't know why it would affect the starting. Some time ago, I noticed that the high beam indicator light did't work. The wire under the dash wasn't connected to anything. I ran a wire to the high beam wire under the headlight. That was the only repair that I've made this winter. I undid the connection that I made and the bike started on the first kick. Again, I don't see the connection but I'm sure that was the problem. I don't ride that bike at night anyway so given the choice of a high beam indicator lamp or good starting, I'll take good starting everyday.
Thanks again for your help.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 08:26 PM
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Question-I have a 64FL. When you attempt to start your Pan, is the choke lever all the way down for your first off ignition kicks? Or is it all the way up?
 
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Old Dec 27, 2012 | 01:24 PM
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I've found that after kicking over my panhead for over 35 years the best starting proceedure is to push the choke lever down all the way (closed) and with the ignition switch off kick the bike over 3-4 times. Pull choke lever all the way up (open), turn on the ignition switch and kick it over. If it's set up right it should start in one or two kicks. If it's really cold I'll close the choke lever one notch but open it all the way the moment the bike starts.
Good Luck.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 04:39 AM
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If you're running 50 weight oil it effects the start in cold weather-

Mine is two pumps of throttle- retard the points- kick it through for about 4 kicks until you can hear it "Chuff."

Two more pumps- kick to power stroke- key on- kick through.

I don't rely on a choke even though I have a S&S "E".

 
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Old Jan 4, 2013 | 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Sling Blade NSAA
If you're running 50 weight oil it effects the start in cold weather-

Mine is two pumps of throttle- retard the points- kick it through for about 4 kicks until you can hear it "Chuff."

Two more pumps- kick to power stroke- key on- kick through.

I don't rely on a choke even though I have a S&S "E".

http://youtu.be/Dh0OLiNeJyI
Linkerts do not have accelerator pumps. Like the S&S "E" does. So. FL54 could twist on his throttle grip all day and it would not do nothing. Your S&S "E" does not have a choke. As in a flap that blocks the venturi. It has what is called an enrichment devise. You pull the enrichment lever up and it allows more fuel to be pulled into the venturi. For cold starting.FYI.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 02:13 AM
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Mine was getting to be a serious PITA. The transmission is being rebuilt. I believe that will solve 75% of the problem. The other 25%....well, I don't know if the loose nut on the seat can be tightened.
 
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