front transmission sprocket
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 133
Likes: 3
From: Coquitlam B.C.
I also think I might have a way to make a wedge that will work almost exactly like the proper tool.
Basically two small chunks of aluminum, sandwiching a piece of belt. Wrap the belt around the pulley, it should be just long enough that the aluminum block sits on top of the belt, not the pulley. It would work like a strap wrench, and bind up against the pivot bolt, just like the proper block
Basically two small chunks of aluminum, sandwiching a piece of belt. Wrap the belt around the pulley, it should be just long enough that the aluminum block sits on top of the belt, not the pulley. It would work like a strap wrench, and bind up against the pivot bolt, just like the proper block
did just that several days ago taking my pulley nut off my 2010 ultra. i went the breaker bar and cheater myself with a friend holding down the rear break pedal. it broke loose alright! the final drive belt that is!!!!! broke her clean in half. there is another $150 and a few more hours to the job. arrghhh. went with the heating up the nut(2 1/4") and using an impact. came right off.
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 133
Likes: 3
From: Coquitlam B.C.
damn, sorry to hear about your belt, that's a tough break (no pun intended) i certainly don't want to do that.
good news, got talking to a local indy, who actually had 2 sets of the sockets and the holding tools. one set was home made, the other was proper screaming eagle ones. he ended up giving me his home made one for nothing, wouldn't even accept a case of beer as a thanks!
the home made pulley lock looks just like a hand made prototype of the proper lock tool, so I have zero question in my mind that it will work!
my arlen ness pulley has arrived at my shipping depot, just have to make the trip down to washington (i'm in canada) to grab it next week, as doing ANYTHING on a long weekend (civic holiday today in my province) is absolutely absurd. possibly if the border waits don't look too bad tomorrow i'll rip down on the bike.
talking to said Indy, the topic of chain tensioners came up, he recommended the screaming eagle manual version, but doing some research into it, I found that the Hayden M6 BT07 looks like a good replacement. Is this REALLY something I should shell the money out for right now, or is it fine to wait a bit? my warranty is up this month.
good news, got talking to a local indy, who actually had 2 sets of the sockets and the holding tools. one set was home made, the other was proper screaming eagle ones. he ended up giving me his home made one for nothing, wouldn't even accept a case of beer as a thanks!
the home made pulley lock looks just like a hand made prototype of the proper lock tool, so I have zero question in my mind that it will work!
my arlen ness pulley has arrived at my shipping depot, just have to make the trip down to washington (i'm in canada) to grab it next week, as doing ANYTHING on a long weekend (civic holiday today in my province) is absolutely absurd. possibly if the border waits don't look too bad tomorrow i'll rip down on the bike.
talking to said Indy, the topic of chain tensioners came up, he recommended the screaming eagle manual version, but doing some research into it, I found that the Hayden M6 BT07 looks like a good replacement. Is this REALLY something I should shell the money out for right now, or is it fine to wait a bit? my warranty is up this month.
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,106
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From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Personally I'm not a Hayden fan but my experience with them has been all shovel & evo related and most everyone pulled them sooner or later. Lot of people running them in the twinkies and say good things so it's a mixed bag sort of thing. The SC or the Baker adjuster would be my choices.
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 133
Likes: 3
From: Coquitlam B.C.
Personally I'm not a Hayden fan but my experience with them has been all shovel & evo related and most everyone pulled them sooner or later. Lot of people running them in the twinkies and say good things so it's a mixed bag sort of thing. The SC or the Baker adjuster would be my choices.
the big reason I didn't want to go with the baker is because it's a manual adjuster, being my primary cover doesn't have an inspection port on it, I would have to pull the outer primary (i'm told) 2-3 times a year to adjust it. This sounds like a big pain to me, tbh. I would rather just go with something automatic
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,106
Likes: 51,387
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
i'm not familiar with the SC. or do you mean SE?
the big reason I didn't want to go with the baker is because it's a manual adjuster, being my primary cover doesn't have an inspection port on it, I would have to pull the outer primary (i'm told) 2-3 times a year to adjust it. This sounds like a big pain to me, tbh. I would rather just go with something automatic
the big reason I didn't want to go with the baker is because it's a manual adjuster, being my primary cover doesn't have an inspection port on it, I would have to pull the outer primary (i'm told) 2-3 times a year to adjust it. This sounds like a big pain to me, tbh. I would rather just go with something automatic
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 133
Likes: 3
From: Coquitlam B.C.
yeah, that's what I heard. I like as little maintenance and adjusting as possible. I'm happy to change fluids as needed, but pissing around with adjustments is not my cup of tea.
not to mention they took the chain inspection hole off of the primary cover, so in order to adjust the chain now, you either have to replace your primary cover, or remove it every time you want to check the tightness, which of course will include dropping the fluid. if that's done every 5000, i put on about double that a year, so that's another $35 in fluid costs every year
not to mention they took the chain inspection hole off of the primary cover, so in order to adjust the chain now, you either have to replace your primary cover, or remove it every time you want to check the tightness, which of course will include dropping the fluid. if that's done every 5000, i put on about double that a year, so that's another $35 in fluid costs every year
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