front transmission sprocket
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 133
Likes: 3
From: Coquitlam B.C.
front transmission sprocket
hey everyone:
I'm working on amassing everything I need to do my final drive pulleys, I think I more or less have everything figured out, the one thing I'm missing is the final drive pulley lock. I found a picture of one on here, made out of an old belt and a 2x4. The guy used it on a sportster, but does this work on the twin cam also? I can't seem to find many pics of people who have their primary off, to tell if there's somewhere to wedge a 2x4 in, to jam this home made tool in.
really don't want to spend $100+ on a one time use tool. especially seeing as the t-70 for my compensator will be a purpose buy for this. I did manage to get a home made front pulley nut socket off a guy locally, for free, hopefully it works well.
I'm working on amassing everything I need to do my final drive pulleys, I think I more or less have everything figured out, the one thing I'm missing is the final drive pulley lock. I found a picture of one on here, made out of an old belt and a 2x4. The guy used it on a sportster, but does this work on the twin cam also? I can't seem to find many pics of people who have their primary off, to tell if there's somewhere to wedge a 2x4 in, to jam this home made tool in.
really don't want to spend $100+ on a one time use tool. especially seeing as the t-70 for my compensator will be a purpose buy for this. I did manage to get a home made front pulley nut socket off a guy locally, for free, hopefully it works well.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 133
Likes: 3
From: Coquitlam B.C.
I won't be using impact. From what I've read online Harley does not recommend using an impact for this, (even though most techs do)
Also using impacts on any bearing guided shaft is a good way to cause premature wear and failure of a bearing due to what's called false brinelling. Basically the bearing rattles and work hardens small parts of the race and *****, which then chip and flake later on and cause pits. It's also hard on the gears.
I will resort to an impact in a last case scenario if a massive breaker bar still doesn't get it loose.
Also using impacts on any bearing guided shaft is a good way to cause premature wear and failure of a bearing due to what's called false brinelling. Basically the bearing rattles and work hardens small parts of the race and *****, which then chip and flake later on and cause pits. It's also hard on the gears.
I will resort to an impact in a last case scenario if a massive breaker bar still doesn't get it loose.
I won't be using impact. From what I've read online Harley does not recommend using an impact for this, (even though most techs do)
Also using impacts on any bearing guided shaft is a good way to cause premature wear and failure of a bearing due to what's called false brinelling. Basically the bearing rattles and work hardens small parts of the race and *****, which then chip and flake later on and cause pits. It's also hard on the gears.
I will resort to an impact in a last case scenario if a massive breaker bar still doesn't get it loose.
Also using impacts on any bearing guided shaft is a good way to cause premature wear and failure of a bearing due to what's called false brinelling. Basically the bearing rattles and work hardens small parts of the race and *****, which then chip and flake later on and cause pits. It's also hard on the gears.
I will resort to an impact in a last case scenario if a massive breaker bar still doesn't get it loose.
Well, good luck, don't forget to heat it up to liquify the loctite, and eat a big breakfast. You need the extra weight on the breaker bar.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 133
Likes: 3
From: Coquitlam B.C.
Thanks for the input, Mark. I'm no small guy at just under 200lbs. Do you know if anyone has had issues with damaging the bearing and seal by heating the nut? They seem like they are in very close proximity to eachother.
I figure 3ft 3/4" drive, with a 3foot cheater on it SHOULD give me enough torque.
I figure 3ft 3/4" drive, with a 3foot cheater on it SHOULD give me enough torque.
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,485
Likes: 232
From: Ohio
With heat it wasn't that bad. Your breaker bar will do it.
The nut is cheap. $5 I think. I think it could be cut off with a dremel tool and chisel if it comes to that. Heat will be your friend though.
The nut is cheap. $5 I think. I think it could be cut off with a dremel tool and chisel if it comes to that. Heat will be your friend though.
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 133
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From: Coquitlam B.C.
Perfect, thanks for the input guys, all of you, really!
Do any of you know how the swing arm pivot and the pulley line up? I was just looking through the SM, and it says to prop the lock tool against the pivot. Just trying to figure out how to make a lock tool
toolpics from the top down would be amazing if anyone has some!
Do any of you know how the swing arm pivot and the pulley line up? I was just looking through the SM, and it says to prop the lock tool against the pivot. Just trying to figure out how to make a lock tool
toolpics from the top down would be amazing if anyone has some!
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From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Thanks for the input, Mark. I'm no small guy at just under 200lbs. Do you know if anyone has had issues with damaging the bearing and seal by heating the nut? They seem like they are in very close proximity to eachother.
I figure 3ft 3/4" drive, with a 3foot cheater on it SHOULD give me enough torque.
I figure 3ft 3/4" drive, with a 3foot cheater on it SHOULD give me enough torque.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 133
Likes: 3
From: Coquitlam B.C.
Ok, thanks for the pointers
Just curious, has anyone tried leaving the belt semi tight, and having a buddy just stand on the rear brakes? Should be enough braking force to hold the sprocket right?
Just curious, has anyone tried leaving the belt semi tight, and having a buddy just stand on the rear brakes? Should be enough braking force to hold the sprocket right?