2008 FXSTSSE2 new compensator required
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 164
Likes: 22
From: Perth
2008 FXSTSSE2 new compensator required
Well folks the original fitment compensator on my 2008 CVO Springer is starting to fail with 38,000 Kilometres.
I have done LOTS of internet researching and have come up with the following part numbers
42200064A for the Screamin' Eagle compensator kit . Local Australian HD dealer reckons this part # is all I'll need ?
AND
40100061 for the ( I think ?) same compensator PLUS a stator as the bike is a 2008
Am I on the right track ? Is there a "better" more recent release as I do believe the part has been modified/updated several times now.
Hoping this is in the right spot
I have done LOTS of internet researching and have come up with the following part numbers
42200064A for the Screamin' Eagle compensator kit . Local Australian HD dealer reckons this part # is all I'll need ?
AND
40100061 for the ( I think ?) same compensator PLUS a stator as the bike is a 2008
Am I on the right track ? Is there a "better" more recent release as I do believe the part has been modified/updated several times now.
Hoping this is in the right spot
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 598
Likes: 376
From: Sweden
Compensator
From Harley webpage:
>Fits '12-'13 DynaŽ, '12-'13 SoftailŽ (except FXCW, FXCWC, FXSB, FXSBSE and '09 FXSTSSE) and '11 -'13 Touring and '09-'13 Trike models. Original Equipment on '14-'17 DynaŽ, SoftailŽ and '14-'16 Touring models. Requires separate purchase of Installation Adhesive Kit P/N 11100088.<
I would check some moore before buying.
>Fits '12-'13 DynaŽ, '12-'13 SoftailŽ (except FXCW, FXCWC, FXSB, FXSBSE and '09 FXSTSSE) and '11 -'13 Touring and '09-'13 Trike models. Original Equipment on '14-'17 DynaŽ, SoftailŽ and '14-'16 Touring models. Requires separate purchase of Installation Adhesive Kit P/N 11100088.<
I would check some moore before buying.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 2,960
Likes: 5,065
From: GA
I used 40100061 for my 2011 Crossbones … 96ci. You will also need an epoxy called out in the instructions. Plus, there's a caulk gun adapter to deliver the epoxy. Of course, you'll also need a primary gasket and oil when you're finished. Try to get a hold of the instructions and read through them first. There may be other things I forgot about. You'll need a T70 torx bit (1/2 in drive) and a locking bar to lock the compensator sprocket and the clutch basket as you loosen and tighten things up. The torque setting for the comp sprocket is like 175 ft-lbs, so you'll need a torque wrench that will handle that.
So, the question is, do you have a 103ci in your CVO or the 96ci because the 96ci primary case won't allow the rotor to be pulled straight out. There are two methods to remove the rotor. Either remove the inner primary or grind the primary case. I used a Dremel to grind the case. There are many threads on this here in the forum.
Good luck and have fun with it.
So, the question is, do you have a 103ci in your CVO or the 96ci because the 96ci primary case won't allow the rotor to be pulled straight out. There are two methods to remove the rotor. Either remove the inner primary or grind the primary case. I used a Dremel to grind the case. There are many threads on this here in the forum.
Good luck and have fun with it.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 164
Likes: 22
From: Perth
Thanks pal , this bike is a stock factory 110 cube motor , so we will see how the old rotor goes. Hoping it will be easy as !
I have already printed off the net the HD instruction sheets ( 4 of !)
I already have a new bike take-off 2013/14 Dyna Switchback outer primary that already has the cast in "oil tray/pan" so I may use that in the rebuild even tho' it's alloy and not paint or chrome.
thanks again for the input so far , most appreciated
I have already printed off the net the HD instruction sheets ( 4 of !)
I already have a new bike take-off 2013/14 Dyna Switchback outer primary that already has the cast in "oil tray/pan" so I may use that in the rebuild even tho' it's alloy and not paint or chrome.
thanks again for the input so far , most appreciated
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 164
Likes: 22
From: Perth
Well fitted up the Compensator upgrade kit 40100061. Had to remove the inner primary (Schweinhund of a job which is why many folks grind the primary case below the stator !)
As the bike is a 2008 the original stator needed to be replaced with the one in the kit
All seemed to go smooth , used the more modern 2014 alloy primary cover with the built in "Oil splash tray"
Started it up , small run , not too smooth and CLUNK when shutting off. WTF ? $635 Aussie dollars worth of parts and it's worse ?
Also noisy as before while riding , whistley/whirring and the odd occasional clunk. that was yesterday.
Internet search last night until midnight , whipped it open again today , put an extra dish spring in ( as suggested in other forums etc etc )
Another 2 hour job after cleanup etc etc...STILL NOISY AND CLUNKY on shutdown and whirring on the move.
Yes sounds just like a bad primary as in all the youtube videos.
Next stripdown this coming Sunday maybe The indy shop ( my mate's workshop !) is going to try another younger part number kit that only has the hardware , no rotor required.
We'll see how that goes. Struggling to imagine what may be the problem to be honest ?
As the bike is a 2008 the original stator needed to be replaced with the one in the kit
All seemed to go smooth , used the more modern 2014 alloy primary cover with the built in "Oil splash tray"
Started it up , small run , not too smooth and CLUNK when shutting off. WTF ? $635 Aussie dollars worth of parts and it's worse ?
Also noisy as before while riding , whistley/whirring and the odd occasional clunk. that was yesterday.
Internet search last night until midnight , whipped it open again today , put an extra dish spring in ( as suggested in other forums etc etc )
Another 2 hour job after cleanup etc etc...STILL NOISY AND CLUNKY on shutdown and whirring on the move.
Yes sounds just like a bad primary as in all the youtube videos.
Next stripdown this coming Sunday maybe The indy shop ( my mate's workshop !) is going to try another younger part number kit that only has the hardware , no rotor required.
We'll see how that goes. Struggling to imagine what may be the problem to be honest ?
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 164
Likes: 22
From: Perth
Well fellows just home from the Indy workshop. The "new" compensator kit that was the 40100061# with the rotor , the rotor was left in and all the spring pack/compensator sprocket assembly removed and examined.
Compared it on the bench to the compensator/spring pack that came from the 42200064A #, the "new" one in the box , and the sliding cam was 90 thou "taller" in this pack (Nearly 2.3mm !) , plus had a machined in "groove" whether to aid oiling or just to show an updated part I am not sure. This box was made/packed 6 months after the 40100061 box ??
Reamed out the threads with a bottoming tap 9/16 NC12 and blasted out with Carby/throttle body cleaner ( all we had to hand !) and compressed air.
VERY careful reassembly using only 5 Spring plates ( was 6 in yesterday !) Torque-o-rama to 175 Ft/Lbs .
Roadtest clunk GONE , still a bit of mild "Whistling"/chattering ( maybe I am now overthinking that !) but the bike will now go into 6th at 85Km/H no worries. No clunk on throttle roll-off.
37C ride home . sweltering , will try again once the seabreeze comes in and will have a 110 Km/H freeway run in 5th and 6th.
Hopefully the whistling will "bed in" and I will do another primary oil drop in a couple of hundred K's to check for swarf on the drain plug magnet and "metal gloss" in the oil...
Compared it on the bench to the compensator/spring pack that came from the 42200064A #, the "new" one in the box , and the sliding cam was 90 thou "taller" in this pack (Nearly 2.3mm !) , plus had a machined in "groove" whether to aid oiling or just to show an updated part I am not sure. This box was made/packed 6 months after the 40100061 box ??
Reamed out the threads with a bottoming tap 9/16 NC12 and blasted out with Carby/throttle body cleaner ( all we had to hand !) and compressed air.
VERY careful reassembly using only 5 Spring plates ( was 6 in yesterday !) Torque-o-rama to 175 Ft/Lbs .
Roadtest clunk GONE , still a bit of mild "Whistling"/chattering ( maybe I am now overthinking that !) but the bike will now go into 6th at 85Km/H no worries. No clunk on throttle roll-off.
37C ride home . sweltering , will try again once the seabreeze comes in and will have a 110 Km/H freeway run in 5th and 6th.
Hopefully the whistling will "bed in" and I will do another primary oil drop in a couple of hundred K's to check for swarf on the drain plug magnet and "metal gloss" in the oil...
Last edited by gmeikle; Jan 6, 2019 at 12:57 AM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 164
Likes: 22
From: Perth
Well , 220 K's on , some in reasonably hot weather , I changed to primary oil ( again !) , and the extra powerful magnet sump plug ( S&S I believe) had just a few wee mini shards of metal , "normal" would be the diagnosis. Oil fairly clear of metallic sheen thankfully. I bought a bunch of those sump plugs from Rollies in QLD a few years back.
Changed from HD Formula+ to "Genuine Suzuki" fully synthetic Ecstar 10W40 as I had some left from servicing the last Japper ( GSX 1300 ) and wanted to try fully synthetic to see if any difference over the Formula+. Opinions vary on "what oil yada yada", but CVO's came from new with HD SYN 3 and I don't keep that on the shelf.
There is still I am assuming Spring pack noise , some fixes appear to be replacing the thin roller bearing with a new thicker Thrust washer from HD part # 6557.
I have that ordered from the local HD dealer , $14 it will stay on the shelf for now and I will see how I go.OR fit another small Belleville spring in the spring pack OR both !
Another stripdown to do all that of course , and I am trying to avoid that. I have reused the same primary gasket each build , seems to be holding up thankfully
A cooler day today , to be "only" 27C (41 a few days back!), perfect day for Harley riding actually ( apologies to those in the Northern hemisphere !).So it will get another wee test run
Changed from HD Formula+ to "Genuine Suzuki" fully synthetic Ecstar 10W40 as I had some left from servicing the last Japper ( GSX 1300 ) and wanted to try fully synthetic to see if any difference over the Formula+. Opinions vary on "what oil yada yada", but CVO's came from new with HD SYN 3 and I don't keep that on the shelf.
There is still I am assuming Spring pack noise , some fixes appear to be replacing the thin roller bearing with a new thicker Thrust washer from HD part # 6557.
I have that ordered from the local HD dealer , $14 it will stay on the shelf for now and I will see how I go.OR fit another small Belleville spring in the spring pack OR both !
Another stripdown to do all that of course , and I am trying to avoid that. I have reused the same primary gasket each build , seems to be holding up thankfully
A cooler day today , to be "only" 27C (41 a few days back!), perfect day for Harley riding actually ( apologies to those in the Northern hemisphere !).So it will get another wee test run
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: poway
The 6557 won't fit.. ID/OD are different. You might get away with the PEEK thrust washer out of the M8s ID/OD is correct. It's thinner than the needle thrust bearing so you'll have to check/align the primary sprockets. Personally I may try to fit a M8 comp to my 07 EGC when the latest TC comp fails. M8 comp is much beefier and it looks like it might fit.
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 164
Likes: 22
From: Perth
Thanks Max I will look into that. I did not "measure" the sprocket alignment , just visually checked and it looked OK. Did that twice.
If/when I am in there again ( trying to avoid that !) , I will check the alignment with a straight edge and calipers.
'Shoulda" done that the first (3 !) times but you get that ! Funnily enough it is not mentioned in the HD "destructions" , but is sound engineering practice I know !
If/when I am in there again ( trying to avoid that !) , I will check the alignment with a straight edge and calipers.
'Shoulda" done that the first (3 !) times but you get that ! Funnily enough it is not mentioned in the HD "destructions" , but is sound engineering practice I know !
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,859
Likes: 7,980
From: poway
Thanks Max I will look into that. I did not "measure" the sprocket alignment , just visually checked and it looked OK. Did that twice.
If/when I am in there again ( trying to avoid that !) , I will check the alignment with a straight edge and calipers.
'Shoulda" done that the first (3 !) times but you get that ! Funnily enough it is not mentioned in the HD "destructions" , but is sound engineering practice I know !
If/when I am in there again ( trying to avoid that !) , I will check the alignment with a straight edge and calipers.
'Shoulda" done that the first (3 !) times but you get that ! Funnily enough it is not mentioned in the HD "destructions" , but is sound engineering practice I know !