Changing the compensating sprocket and chain
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada
Changing the compensating sprocket and chain
I have an 06 Softail and have bought a Baker 21T compensating sprocket and chain. I have been told this is a simple job to swap out my 25T sprocket. Is it? I have the manual and the job seems complicated or at least, the instructions are vague. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong spot as it specifies using a specialty tool but I've been told that all that is needed is a 1/2" impact socket. I am good with tools and have a good assortment of common shop tools. How is it done?
Big Kahuna HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 23,881
Likes: 34
From: USA
It's not rocket science but I do believe you need the locking tool to get the comp nut off. The directions in my 06 dyna SM are pretty good. Just be patient and go step by step.
Mark all of your fasteners on the outer case as they are different lengths and use a new gasket and make sure you follow the correct torque procedure for reinstall on the cover so you don't warp it. (use blue loctite on the cover bolts)
Loosen the chain tensioner and some guys tie it off with a plastic tie wrap to hold it together. Some people just remove it.
Lock the sprocket with the tool and loosen the nut. Then remove the chain. Remove the comp assembly and lay out the parts so you don't get them wrong. Use a digital camera to photo how it was asembled if that will help with re-assembly.
While you are in there see if you have a stator with screws in the case. If so, I would replace the stator with a welded one as there are issues where the stator screws back out and grenade the whole assembly.
While you have the new chain out you might want to have the outer edges on the outside of the chain polished as this will cause less wear on your tensioner shoe and cut down some of the noise. Just make sure you clean the chain and relubricate it with primary oil before re-install.
Once you get the new sprocket on make sure you red-loctite the nut back on and torque to spec. Then adjust the chain tensioner. Then rotate the whole assembly on the starter with the cover off to make sure it is not binding anywhere. (remove the spark plug wires to do this)
Put the cover back on...do the torque sequence, pull the derby cover and fill with oil, button that up and you should be good to go.
What ever you do...BE PATIENT AND TAKE YOUR TIME.
Mark all of your fasteners on the outer case as they are different lengths and use a new gasket and make sure you follow the correct torque procedure for reinstall on the cover so you don't warp it. (use blue loctite on the cover bolts)
Loosen the chain tensioner and some guys tie it off with a plastic tie wrap to hold it together. Some people just remove it.
Lock the sprocket with the tool and loosen the nut. Then remove the chain. Remove the comp assembly and lay out the parts so you don't get them wrong. Use a digital camera to photo how it was asembled if that will help with re-assembly.
While you are in there see if you have a stator with screws in the case. If so, I would replace the stator with a welded one as there are issues where the stator screws back out and grenade the whole assembly.
While you have the new chain out you might want to have the outer edges on the outside of the chain polished as this will cause less wear on your tensioner shoe and cut down some of the noise. Just make sure you clean the chain and relubricate it with primary oil before re-install.
Once you get the new sprocket on make sure you red-loctite the nut back on and torque to spec. Then adjust the chain tensioner. Then rotate the whole assembly on the starter with the cover off to make sure it is not binding anywhere. (remove the spark plug wires to do this)
Put the cover back on...do the torque sequence, pull the derby cover and fill with oil, button that up and you should be good to go.
What ever you do...BE PATIENT AND TAKE YOUR TIME.
Last edited by KBFXDLI; May 8, 2009 at 12:57 PM.
Big Kahuna HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 23,881
Likes: 34
From: USA
Damn...forgot the clutch hub assembly...that has to come off too to get the chain off easily. BTW, some guys have used a rubber door stop to lock the sprockets. Just stick the narrow part between the chain & sprocket. Also, I use a very thin coat of black permatex RTV sealant on the case to hold the gasket in place.
Last edited by KBFXDLI; May 8, 2009 at 04:42 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: South Carolina
I used a Craftsman 3/8 drive ratchet when I torqued mine down. FYI...if you use an air impact gun for disassembly you shouldn't need to wedge any thing in between the sprockets. You will need to lock them when applying the final torque though.
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Outstanding HDF Member
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From: Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada
Thanks everyone for your replies. It sounds fussy though and my head is not there right now (building a house). I may take it to my indy if he can do it on the fly (not drop it off).
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: King George, VA
Tech told me if I used RTV between the primary and engine block it would possibly cause one of the casting to crack. Also, the sprocket lock can be cut from a 5" long 2X4 using a jig saw.
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Road Captain
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Using an impact wrench you won't need a sprocket lock to remove the compensator nut. You'll need a lock to torque it. Easy to make one out of 1/4" x 1" steel. Cut it long enough to fit at a steep angle inbetween the spockets of the compensator nut and clutch hub.
There is not a 3/8in drive impact wrench that I'm aware of that will give you the 150 lbs of torque required for te compensator nut.
There is not a 3/8in drive impact wrench that I'm aware of that will give you the 150 lbs of torque required for te compensator nut.
