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As I have been slowly running my new motor through its heat cycles I quickly diagnosed a leak at the front intake port. I thought I had matched the heads up to the intake manifold during installation but now realize that either I didn't do it right or they moved while I was tightening the heads down. My questions are:
1. How many degrees of play is there to turn a loose head when the bolts are loosened? It looks like I would need to turn both heads a few degrees counterclockwise for the manifold to be aligned properly.
2. The motor is fully installed with copper head gaskets. Can I just loosen the bolts and turn the heads as needed (obviously after disconnecting the top motor mount,oil feed lines, exhaust, etc and removing the pushrods)? Or do I need to remove them completely to anneal the copper gaskets again?
I am obviously wanting to avoid removing any more than necessary. Anyone who has read my prior posts might know that this rebuild has been a long process of an hour here, an hour there. I am f'n ready to ride and all these set backs are driving me nuts. On the same token, I have so far taken my learning licks and have been meticulous to my ability and don't want to take unnessesary shortcuts. I'm good with learning lessons from this and will get over my impatience.
I wouldn't turn heads without new gaskets or anneal them, how much is the intake out? Can u post a pic...also do you have O rings or bands.... Don't run it till ya fix it...you will run lean and burn pistons
I'll post pics as soon as I can. If I square up the manifold perfectly to the rear head there is about an 1/8th inch even gap between it and the front head.
with a deal like that you might have other issues too many to list - in the shop we would double the seals - a pair of o rings covered by the later flat rings ( use the red silicone ones not the black rubber ) and use the later larger diameter clamps for flat rings - save your self all the hassle of not knowing what it might be going after something that actually is not really broken
its not a snap putting both on - but if it was easy little girls could do it < someone on the site wrote that not me but I love it . I said that to my 12 year old granddaughter the look was worth a million bucks
Thanks for the advice. They are brand new S&S heads on brand new S&S cylinders. The intake manifold is an old S&S with a super e carb. I still think of I am able to rotate the heads just a couple of degrees counterclockwise that it would go away. I just can't remember how much play there was when the bolts were loose. Does anyone have an idea with an estimate of how many degrees of adjustment they may have? I am pissed that this is my hang up now because I have been so damn meticulous during this build.
Thanks for the advice. They are brand new S&S heads on brand new S&S cylinders. The intake manifold is an old S&S with a super e carb. I still think of I am able to rotate the heads just a couple of degrees counterclockwise that it would go away. I just can't remember how much play there was when the bolts were loose. Does anyone have an idea with an estimate of how many degrees of adjustment they may have? I am pissed that this is my hang up now because I have been so damn meticulous during this build.
I don't know how many degrees but if you loosen all your bolts it will move at least a 1/4 inch or a half a bolt diameter... each way, but I would use a new gasket.. Johnjzjz advice is good... you can do it for 25 bucks..Got this idea from the Shovel guys, at shovelhead.us You can make it or buy it search for 2in ID silicone hose turbo coupler and clamps 40-60mm norma gemi.. Johnjzjz is gonna like this.. or the ones johnjzjz recommended red ones..
That old intake that you are using could have been machined down a little to fit heads and jugs that were machined for performance and now with the new jugs and heads the motor is a little taller as well as wider than the old set up...
as the picture shows the red kit already comes with the plastic dupe for the rubber o ring, but some times you cant get one or the other to sit just right so - super 88 electrical hi temp US made tape - after the o rings are in place run a bead around the o rings as it will double the seal of a correct seated intake - in most cases that is all that is needed, I have been in that spot your in for different reasons, and been disappointed at the head removal to try and correct what the out come ended up being - the jug studs can also give a bit - but I will do it again as some do move more then others and some it becomes the only way to get a good night sleep
the head movement is going to be very small usually its an angle kind of correctness not an actual distance closer
Last edited by johnjzjz; Apr 25, 2017 at 07:24 AM.
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Intake manifold question
