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Feu months ago i have started a new project. The initial idea are use a Right panhead case, and a left Shovel Alternator case. And use a 4-1/4 flywheel, but the heads are a mistake, some options.
Two weeks ago i have found a pair of STD Shovelution unused heads. Two jewels. These are now shipped go my house from germany
For the moment i have assembled some bottom parts. The right case are a '61 panhead case, with some weld repairs, and left case are a '71 shovel case, in very good condition. The flywheel are a special assembly, use a 4-1/4 flywheel from 1979 shovel, but with a side oiling axle in the cam side, for a good lubrication with panhead cam cover. This axle have a 360 degree ring to receive oil all time. For this reasson, i have adapt an EVO pre-92 oil pump, with drilling and pluguin holes with S&S manual indications, but the oil pump are a Daytona reply.
I attach some pics of the assembly.
In another section i have open another post asking if i can use some S&S pistons in this build, because i need to remove the top lip from sleeve, the shovelution heads are symilar to the EVO heads, without space for this lip. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/engin...l#post17643035
this is a set of STD panheads -- the bike is a 1979 FXE -- the cylinders are trock 3 13/16th bore X stock 80 4 1/4 stroke== 97"
dual plugs -- baisley roller rockers -- 11:1 compression - leinweber L-3 cam - i made the pipes -
the breather hole is damaged and not repaired correctly But if you use an ( S&S reed breather ) no load will be put on it and that combo will work with out a spinning breather - if you spin the breather that repair will brake causing real damage to the engine
that is not an S&S pump how do you know the flow is the same - did that pump come with or tell you to use the S&S directions
the cam area was welded ( could be weak ) and you had a damaged inner cam bushing in it right side block ??? - do you plan on using a bushing or a bearing --- question was the engine running at some point with the 2 case half's you have Now ????
I see you ported the right side to make a vent in the case BUT you need to make a plug for the right side large hole crossing over to the left if not the cases will leak as its blowing out air and oil mist by design - no glue will stop it
and explain how the oil pump is going to dump off excess pressure now that you have blocked off the spill opening to the cam cover
and what were you doing blocking off the hydraulic lifter oiling -- are you going to run solids >?????
try and answer all the questions as you only want to do this once
also I would have the 2 halves assembled and decked - probably not flat -- and I would have the pinion race to timkin checked to see if its aligned - also check to see if your engine mount surfaces are flat -- I would have the heads surfaced and the inserts checked to see if they have pulled - have the valve seats checked to see if they are to deep - what size are the valve guides?
not everyone coats the inside of the block - I still do and I coat the intake and the manifold. that's GLYPTAL RED not just red paint -- seals the aluminum pours - SMOKEY Yunick USED IT ON THE INTAKE and gained 3 tenths of a second.. I checked my intake after 400 miles and i'll be damned if its still there -- now does it make a difference on air flow? who knows - when you go from a stock 80" to a 97" beast its hard to tell .. if cleaned and coated right it WILL NOT COME OFF.. I coated the intake tracts and the manifold.. who knows --- also use hondabond to seal the case 1/2's myself I use copper head gaskets and copper coat again clean and flat surfaces and heat the copper gaskets with a propane torch -- cool,, spray and install --
now with my trock culinders I don't use a base gasket - I use 3 bond -- seals and doesn't leak
not everyone coats the inside of the block - I still do and I coat the intake and the manifold. that's GLYPTAL RED not just red paint -- seals the aluminum pours - SMOKEY Yunick USED IT ON THE INTAKE and gained 3 tenths of a second.. I checked my intake after 400 miles and i'll be damned if its still there -- now does it make a difference on air flow? who knows - when you go from a stock 80" to a 97" beast its hard to tell .. if cleaned and coated right it WILL NOT COME OFF.. I coated the intake tracts and the manifold.. who knows --- also use hondabond to seal the case 1/2's myself I use copper head gaskets and copper coat again clean and flat surfaces and heat the copper gaskets with a propane torch -- cool,, spray and install --
now with my trock culinders I don't use a base gasket - I use 3 bond -- seals and doesn't leak
Just like air over the surface of a car, air flows over it theres a boundary layer and you have laminar flow. Painting the cast surface of your intake manifold will have no effect on air flow and painting the inside of the engine wont provide a return you can measure but it can peel off as you know. Thats a great reason to not use it unless its in a race engine that sees regular disassembly. The only reason I can see the SBC having a positive result is because its complex wet manifold (aka poor design) that causes fuel to drop out of suspension in turns. The painted surface might help that lost fuel make it to the chamber eventually but Im really reaching by saying that it would actually do that.
reason we glyptol the internal alloy of older Harleys and Indian cases is we glass bead them, the nature of beading leaves a super fine glass residue that does not wash off with solvent , because its been penetrated into the pores of the alloy - the glyptol has shown that is does not flake off if kept thin ( adding a small amount of lacquer thinner helps with this ) , and wont let the glass bleed into the engines oil when its running
the breather hole is damaged and not repaired correctly But if you use an ( S&S reed breather ) no load will be put on it and that combo will work with out a spinning breather - if you spin the breather that repair will brake causing real damage to the engine This repair are worked many years, not are recently reparation. Are bronze reparation, low friction. Same material that bushings. I don't have decided what breather valve, i have thinking about the S&S reed, only inconvenient is that valve don't aspire oil leak from breather chamber.
that is not an S&S pump how do you know the flow is the same - did that pump come with or tell you to use the S&S directions I have analized all circuits, have investigate a lot of time. The EVO pre-92 oil pump have symilar circuits. I have not followed the steps like a blind man, I have analyzed a lot the pump and the crankcase.
the cam area was welded ( could be weak ) and you had a damaged inner cam bushing in it right side block ??? - do you plan on using a bushing or a bearing --- question was the engine running at some point with the 2 case half's you have Now ???? This inner cam bushing are new, handmade build for the same person that have welded the case, a veteran Harley builder. I can't use a Torrington because this hole are oversized. Yes, the engine have run a lot of time whit this right left reparation, except for the weld, this is recent.
I see you ported the right side to make a vent in the case BUT you need to make a plug for the right side large hole crossing over to the left if not the cases will leak as its blowing out air and oil mist by design - no glue will stop it The left case are Shovel, without breather hole. Besides, i have add silicone motor sealer in left side before placing the nut.
and explain how the oil pump is going to dump off excess pressure now that you have blocked off the spill opening to the cam cover This oil pump works like an EVO, the first oil excees go to cam cover and connecting rod, and the excess pressure have a internal oil pump conduction to aspiration. If i sends the excees pressure go to cam chamber, this it is flooded. This oil pump have more flow and i want to use a 24T oil pump gear (+ 25% + 30% flow)
and what were you doing blocking off the hydraulic lifter oiling -- are you going to run solids >????? If you have read my post, i want to use a STD Shovelution heads. This heads are EVO heads but with bottom Shovel bolt pattern. I want to use EVO lifters, EVO style cam (P-Series S&S cam) and EVO rockers, don't need the internal case oil lines. Don't have blocking the hydraulic lifter, pay atention, don't have plug this hole, are the internal cylinder lines.
try and answer all the questions as you only want to do this once
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PanShovelution build
