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That poor Front brake light switch has really had the weinie... The Green Weinie!!!
The threaded Body of the switch is still in there... Right hand Threaded...lefty Loosey..
How in theee hell did that switchhousing get so Corroded.??? was this bike a Flood Victim????
Someone Did Not know what they were doing, with that Intake
I would remove that at this Point. Heaven Knows what is under there... Betting a Rubberband Setup, but????
Those clamps are for O-ring
Humor me and see what is Under there... you are going to need to anyway..
I am going to be waiting on some electrical parts so I might as well look into some other things. I will pull the intake today and get some pics.
I was thinking about trying to replace that switch housing on the right side and jpossibly that harness, it is pretty effed up and I'm afraid it may be a problem later on. I am going to clean it up today and figure out what to do about it. I think they had the brake light wires under the housing and not in the slot so it pinched the wires and let water come into the switch housing. Dumbasses! The brake light switch literally fell apart when I tried to unscrew it.
I picked up a flasher at NAPA this morning to see if I can get turn signals working. I also found some of the small terminal ends so that will help with some of the wires that were boogered up.
I have operational turn signals! The flasher from NAPA did the trick.
I still need a front brake light switch but have that ordered. I found out that the red wire next to the rear brake light switch is coming from the front bls so I just need to connect that and I should have the front brake light fixed.
My horn button is bad but the horn works when I jump the switch. Feels like I am rolling now.
Here is the intake Racepress. You were right, those rubber boots just fell off when I removed the clamps. They are either not the right ones or they are shot and need to be replaced. I probably had air leaks at that point. Thanks for that advice. I will look into getting the proper rubber bands.
I have operational turn signals! The flasher from NAPA did the trick.
I still need a front brake light switch but have that ordered. I found out that the red wire next to the rear brake light switch is coming from the front bls so I just need to connect that and I should have the front brake light fixed.
My horn button is bad but the horn works when I jump the switch. Feels like I am rolling now.
Here is the intake Racepress. You were right, those rubber boots just fell off when I removed the clamps. They are either not the right ones or they are shot and need to be replaced. I probably had air leaks at that point. Thanks for that advice. I will look into getting the proper rubber bands.
Hopefully your Manifold is the Mirror Image of the heads... all ya need is O-Rings and put 'er back together
The right way,,
BTW people Cringe, but, I been taking a wrap of black electrical tape around the assembly over the oring...then clamp, gotta open the clamp all the way, without Kinking it... But, I have yet to have a problem with this method...and the Correct clamps, which you have.. But, Only been doing it that way since the Mid to late '70's..
Edit I also usually use a Cheat for Installation...as I run out of hands..
a Stick accross the heads on left side, and a bungee holding Manifold [no Carb On]
Looking for a picture..
I did Not notice your carb support, but will take a look..
Last edited by Racepres; Oct 17, 2020 at 01:40 PM.
Checking all the dash lights and they all have power but I'm gonna need some bulbs, I think I have one that works. Put the nacelle back together, that feels good.
So I need O rings, not rubber bands?
Yes you need o-rings, and My S&S "B" always seemed to work better with a Phenolic Block between Carb and Manifold, No Biggie tho... lots are just fine like yours is..
That Carb Support is probably Sufficient... even tho a "B" hangs out a long ways..and may benefit from 2
Hopefully the O-ring between Carb and Manifold is Good... But, You will soon see as I have a Terrible time Putting a Manifold on with the Carb on the Manifold.. the Holes in the Manifold are Ready Made for Bungee hooks and the Bungee around yer Stick on the Backside [left side]
Yes you need o-rings, and My S&S "B" always seemed to work better with a Phenolic Block between Carb and Manifold, No Biggie tho... lots are just fine like yours is..
That Carb Support is probably Sufficient... even tho a "B" hangs out a long ways..and may benefit from 2
Hopefully the O-ring between Carb and Manifold is Good... But, You will soon see as I have a Terrible time Putting a Manifold on with the Carb on the Manifold.. the Holes in the Manifold are Ready Made for Bungee hooks and the Bungee around yer Stick on the Backside [left side]
Yeah, that carb is too heavy to install the manifold with it attached. I just did the quickie job to pull the manifold.
So I use O rings and the clamps I have? That's cool. I am finding so many little things on this bike that were unnecessary "fixes". It doesn't cost much to get the right parts and do it right and then it is really fixed, not half-assed fixed.
A cut nail and a zip tie can work for the third hand.
Third Hand
I Like it OK... But a Bungee and a stick on the off side is Simple for me!! I need lots of room to install the open Clamp!!
Originally Posted by DrDirty
Yeah, that carb is too heavy to install the manifold with it attached. I just did the quickie job to pull the manifold.
So I use O rings and the clamps I have? That's cool. I am finding so many little things on this bike that were unnecessary "fixes". It doesn't cost much to get the right parts and do it right and then it is really fixed, not half-assed fixed.
Yes, those are O-ring clamps... only "improvement", would be an Aircraft style clamps... Not a necessity, .... and you are on a Good track!!!
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