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FLH wiring problems

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Old Oct 15, 2020 | 09:52 AM
  #21  
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I will loosen a clamp to see if there are O-rings in there. I wonder if that could be why it seems to be cold natured, it has to warm up for a bit before you can go. I have never run an S&S carb and figured that was the issue.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2020 | 09:54 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by panz4ever
Glad you are making progress. Looks like the yellow wire is/was being used as a ground wire? You can see the black wire from the horn and going into your harness for the horn button. If so the ground wire cannot be connected to the same spot where the horn wire goes to the button.

And on a side note, what is stcking out atop your fork stem cover?
Its a cigarette lighter. Guess the PO was a smoker.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2020 | 09:59 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by panz4ever
FYI, those connectors under your dash are the original wire circuit, not aftermarket. Maybe not pristine anymore but definitely looks to be original and not "hacked". Don't think I would start cutting wires.



Blue "trailer connectors" are always trouble, and unless your going to an AMCA event there is no reason to keep them...Harley had recalls for electrical fires during this era... and all these pics show the reasons why...

Several aftermarket companies make nice wiring harnesses that eliminate all problems, and you can pick up some extra features like self cancelling turn signals while your at it...

No reason to keep a known problems because it is "original"...especially if you plan on riding the bike more than showing it...YMMV
 
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Old Oct 15, 2020 | 10:10 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Tom84FXST
Blue "trailer connectors" are always trouble, and unless your going to an AMCA event there is no reason to keep them...Harley had recalls for electrical fires during this era... and all these pics show the reasons why...

Several aftermarket companies make nice wiring harnesses that eliminate all problems, and you can pick up some extra features like self cancelling turn signals while your at it...

No reason to keep a known problems because it is "original"...especially if you plan on riding the bike more than showing it...YMMV
I personally like crimp connectors and shrink tube. That is probably what I will eventually use, I don't like those blue connectors. I work on too many trailers at work where those things lose connection over time.

For now, I want to get everything working so it will pass inspection and I can take my mc license test on the bike. I have never had a street bike in the 13 yrs I have been in Atlanta, only a race bike, so I have to get a GA Motorcycle license. Go figure, I have a race license but can't ride on the street without riding through some orange cones.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2020 | 06:07 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by DrDirty
I personally like crimp connectors and shrink tube. That is probably what I will eventually use, I don't like those blue connectors. I work on too many trailers at work where those things lose connection over time.

For now, I want to get everything working so it will pass inspection and I can take my mc license test on the bike. I have never had a street bike in the 13 yrs I have been in Atlanta, only a race bike, so I have to get a GA Motorcycle license. Go figure, I have a race license but can't ride on the street without riding through some orange cones.
I've probably been fortunate. I'm 2nd owner of my 84. Added almost 58K to the original owner's milage. Knock on wood....no electrical issues with stock wiring harness. Only updates has been a 32 amp charging system.

I have a race license but can't ride on the street without riding through some orange cones.

Wow, that really bites on the m/c licensing.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2020 | 10:17 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Racepres
Hopefully as easy as Opening a Clamp... maybe no Need to actually Disturb anything.
Alternately.. attach fuel supply and Give 'er a Spray of ??? WD, while running!!!
Maybe I'm Just paranoid.....Hopefully
I loosened the clamp and there are rubber boots under the clamps that look a lot like the rubber bands. I will still check it for leaks but it looks OK for now.

I pulled the nacelle and went through all the wires on the terminal block and flashers and here is what I found. When I plug the orange wire from the circuit breaker into the terminal block the breaker trips. I unplugged all the wires one at a time and unplugged the power wire to each flasher and switch one at a time and every time the breaker tripped, so I can't figure out where the short is but I am startng to suspect the terminal block.

When I plug that orange wire into block 3 the cb trips. I can't find anything that seems to be shorted in the nacelle. I ran a jumper from the circuit breaker to the flashers and got lights on the rear, the front turn signal wires and not connected
 
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Old Oct 16, 2020 | 12:17 AM
  #27  
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There are 8 positions for the orange wires on the #3 position on the terminal block. You are only using half of them. You need to see if you can get power w/o tripping the cb. The panel could be a dead stick or it may be just a simple matter of finding the short in the #3 position and plugging into a different part of the #3 block..

Have a buddy with a 76 FLH. Wiring was a bit f'd up. He'd turn on the switch and the bike would start cranking w/o pressing the start button. Turned out to be a short in the panel. We were able to isolate the short and adjsut the position of the wires w/in the panel. Worth a try and can save a few bucks.

Just think of that panel as a rather crude circuit board
 

Last edited by panz4ever; Oct 16, 2020 at 12:29 AM.
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Old Oct 16, 2020 | 06:47 AM
  #28  
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the brake light wire in the bars is a look at for orange shorting
 
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Old Oct 16, 2020 | 07:48 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by johnjzjz
the brake light wire in the bars is a look at for orange shorting
I was suspicious of the front bls but disconnected the red wire at block 10 and it still tripped the breaker. This would have killed the power to the switch, correct?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2020 | 07:51 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by panz4ever
There are 8 positions for the orange wires on the #3 position on the terminal block. You are only using half of them. You need to see if you can get power w/o tripping the cb. The panel could be a dead stick or it may be just a simple matter of finding the short in the #3 position and plugging into a different part of the #3 block..

Have a buddy with a 76 FLH. Wiring was a bit f'd up. He'd turn on the switch and the bike would start cranking w/o pressing the start button. Turned out to be a short in the panel. We were able to isolate the short and adjsut the position of the wires w/in the panel. Worth a try and can save a few bucks.

Just think of that panel as a rather crude circuit board
So I can plug the orange power wire into any lug in block #3? I will try that tonight. I was wondering about last night after I had given up and hit the shower. It does sound like I could have a bad terminal block though, right?

If this is the case, am I looking on Ebay for one? My nearest dealer doesn't seem at all interested in looking for parts for my bike.
 
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