Thanks Gappy. Ya, I knew it would be a complete rear wheel change if he wants to do it? I really doubt he will since he was too cheap to buy a manual, making some of this a guessing game. But, it's been a learning experience. Whomever had this apart before me musta had the market cornered on black RTV.

 

what did the rear wheel come from (what year)? reason I ask is I may be doing the same. Pulled my rear wheel off to replace the rear sprocket (80 FLT) and discovered the sprocket is welded to the hub and so forth as you know. If I decide to change the wheel, any suggestion you have on spacers,etc would be greatly appreciated. I think I can find a replacement wheel easier than the hub which will need the bearings and seals and so forth. What started as a stator replacement has turned into isolating the primary, found sprocket on main shaft worn and nut loose. Had to replace that sprocket and decided to go through the rear wheel (check/replace bearings and seals) and the sprocket teeth felt sharp (worn) which led to pulling the rear wheel. This is all I need to get the bike finished and get it back together..........ugh

 

Ok, I am not a wheel expert but I am thinking any rear mag wheel 3.00-16 spoke,16 inch 3/4in dia axel will work. From 1973- 80-82? will be stamped AMF after that they will be stamped Harley Davidson. Spoked wheels of this size will work too. My bike is a 83 and the wheel I put on came of a 85 flh,flt. I don’t know what year they went to the 10 spoke, and others but I think any 16x3 16 inch

Sorry about the bad pic, must have been some oil on the lens, but you get the idea
with a 3/4in axel will work up to 1999 I think. It took a little time to find a matching 16 spoke for my bike.

The key to setting this up is to after wheel bearings and end play set put the brake disc on and mount the wheel into the brake caliper. You have to do that side first. Then you can see if you will need a regular sprocket or an off set one. I think offset sprockets are used for guys converting from belt to chain. I am not sure. You will probably need a regular sprocket like me. Take some measurements and make a spacer out of pvc to see if your spacer is right. Make one you are happy with and go to your Indy or machine shop and have them cut one for you. The shop I work with made me a fancy chrome one to go along with the chrome sprocket that was sent me by mistake.

 

Gappy, thanks much! I have a cast wheel I got from a friend. In the process of mocking it up. I pulled my rotor from the original wheel and didn't realize there was a spacer between the rotor and wheel. Anyways, I put two bolts in the rotor to my "new" wheel and same with the new sprocket. My donor wheel came with spacers and I think I'm close. I'm doing what you suggested by working the caliper to rotor side first. Not realizing the spacer between the rotor and old wheel was still on the old wheel, I mocked it with the axle spacers given to me. My sprocket is not an offset sprocket. Anyways, I was checking how close the chain was running straight in line with the front sprocket and it looks pretty good. But for some reason, the rim appears to far to the left, in other words it doesn't look centered in the rear fender. Also, the wheel rotates in the caliper but I think its off just a little. As I was cleaning up, I moved the old wheel and noticed the spacer still on the wheel where I removed the rotor. So, next chance I get, I'll pull the "new" wheel and put that spacer on the rim (behind rotor) which should move rotor towards swingarm a tad. Another thing I noticed while mocking it and checking the chain alignment between the front and rear sprockets, it appears the axle isn't perfectly straight through the swingarm. The left chain adjusters has less exposed threads past the nut than the right adjuster. I'm hoping the spacer that goes between the wheel and brake rotor corrects this as maybe this is being caused by the rotor and caliper. I feel like I'm close, but no cigar yet. I have another question for you..........end play? how do you set end play? I have the FLT manual but don't have a manual for the rear wheel set up I'm attempting to run. So you don't put the axle nut on and torque it to a given torque spec? Once I get this rear wheel set up complete, I'll be able to get my inner primary back on and reassemble my bike from what began as a stator replacement. I appreciate your help and Bass Player for starting this thread as he beat me to it. Bass Player, did you go this route and if so, experiencing any issues?

 

One thing I forgot to mention , when making the spacer on the sprocket side, you need to tighten the axle bolt, with your mock up in place the bearings and spacers in the wheel will compress a little. And you may find that your new spacer a little short. It is not good to compress the rear forks of the rear swing arm too much or any at all if you can help it.

 

 

Hey dont laugh John ...... Toby Price used cable ties and duct tape to finish the 8th stage in the Dakar Rally LOL.........besides those white ones never hold