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The blade the fire departments use for cars and trucks to open them up go right against the bell and nut - then a side grinder
or a side grinder and remove it right to the bell
at that point its just threads when it is to that spot and the nut shaft will be exposed - we would drill a hole in the end if it does not want to move and use an air impact and walk if slowly counterclockwise off
Crap, half the head is off now, not much more to go. When you to to weld, make sure your ground is on the work piece !
Looking at that, you could have cut that brass washer with a cutting wheel along the 6 flat edges of the nut and got a socket on that a bit deeper, may still be able to do that also.
Last edited by kel03; Dec 21, 2021 at 07:40 PM.
Reason: cutting wheel added.
If you get to the part about needing to split the threaded part of the nut because it won't come off, there is a grinding technique called blue line. Basically you use an angle grinder flat to the tubular part removing most of the metal. When you get close to the threads, the metal will turn blue from heat. At that point, its thin enough that it will crack with a cold water spray. Once the pressure is off the threads, and all that heat applied, it should come off without any damage to the crank shaft.
I’m in the grind the head off camp. The head is mostly gone now anyway. I believe anyone that has wrenched on anything has run into a problem like this and once solved, it is a story to reminisce and smile....
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When you to to weld, make sure your ground is on the work piece !
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I can't reiterate this enough! If you go to weld anything, make sure the current path goes straight between the rod and the ground, WITHOUT going through your engine, bearings, or crankshaft. If you're pitching the comp, I would place the ground on the head of the nut and weld a tab to the comp, then place the ground on the tab and weld a HUGE nut to the head of the comp and have another go at it with whatever tool you need to move it (I'm thinking 3/4" breaker bar with a socket to fit the new nut). I'd go BIG too; maybe 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" nut; whatever you can get over the comp nut and still have solid area inside the nut to weld.
OK guys. I see that there was plenty of interest in my plight here. I just got back into town, and spent a bit of today on this. Sadly, no good news to give. I heated it with MAPP for a few minutes, then I went at it with a 3/4" impact boasting 1700ft/lb of nut breaking torque. Because of the brass washer, and the previous mangling of the nut done by whatever tweakers previously owned her, this did nothing but make mince meat of what was left. Now it is no longer possible to grab onto with any tool. My options seem to be welding something onto the face of the nut that can be turned, or cutting the ****er off. Ironically, I have ordered a TIG/stick machine to learn for other reasons, but I have never welded before and I wanna get this done ASAP. I feel like cutting the nut head off vertically is my only option, now that I can't grab anything with any tools. I'm close to defeat here, but determined to get it off.
The temp has to be 500F at least to break the red locktite. I used a mapp torch and infared thermometer. You are well beyond that now. You have been keeping everyone on the edge of their seats for the last few months. There is lots of advice here, choose wisely!! In the mean time don't rush, we would all like to see a happy conclusion to your dilemma.
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