Need Replacement Flywheel Advice - ASAP
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 554
Likes: 359
From: Bristol, CT
Need Replacement Flywheel Advice - ASAP
I'd post this under the thread I started but need expert input before I meet the shop owner tomorrow, Saturday 11/27 around noon. He just called to meet tomorrow to go over details of what they found...so far, excessive play in the rods and indicated I'm looking at replacing the lower end. Seeing as I this 80" 78 1/2 is NOT the original engine I'm thinking the BEST I can get for longevity. I'm riding this bike, not flipping it. Always missed my old FXEF but that was modded so far from stock with dual belt drives an ton of s#it... I'm keeping the chains so far to be period correct...I do prefer belts. I have no accurate idea the true milage of this shovel engine because the instruments were likely part of the '76 rolling chassis deal that was sold in 1979 to the person that completed it and sold it to the party I bought it from who added just over 2,000 to the odometer reading (now of 14006). I'm now looking to make this engine better in all aspects over stock internals but I need the advice / expertise from the folks here, especially the longtime builders and contributors. I know parts availability might be iffy after checking some sources. Are these the best options I listed? S&S being preferred? The shop has expertise building street to drag strip and restorations so I trust they won't steer me wrong but prior knowledge going in of my options is huge to me. Seeing we are splitting the cases, anything that can be done to ensure longevity I'm open to. It is going to get pricey, but I'm about knowing what I've got and trusting the build.
S&S
JIMS
TRUETT & OSBORNE
I hope everyone had a safe and satisfying Thanksgiving.
THANKS!!!
S&S
JIMS
TRUETT & OSBORNE
I hope everyone had a safe and satisfying Thanksgiving.
THANKS!!!
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 759
Likes: 936
From: Under the affluence of incahol.
A bit of rod play is not usually cause for whole new flywheels. For a stock(ish) engine you can usually hone/lap the rod races and fit new oversize rollers and crankpin. They usually last pretty well if not over-revved etc. If your local shop can't do crank work, you can mail it to Truett and Osborne and they will do it and send it back.
But depends on what your local shop found in there.
But depends on what your local shop found in there.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,285
Likes: 965
From: Eastern NC
I'd post this under the thread I started but need expert input before I meet the shop owner tomorrow, Saturday 11/27 around noon. He just called to meet tomorrow to go over details of what they found...so far, excessive play in the rods and indicated I'm looking at replacing the lower end. Seeing as I this 80" 78 1/2 is NOT the original engine I'm thinking the BEST I can get for longevity. I'm riding this bike, not flipping it. Always missed my old FXEF but that was modded so far from stock with dual belt drives an ton of s#it... I'm keeping the chains so far to be period correct...I do prefer belts. I have no accurate idea the true milage of this shovel engine because the instruments were likely part of the '76 rolling chassis deal that was sold in 1979 to the person that completed it and sold it to the party I bought it from who added just over 2,000 to the odometer reading (now of 14006). I'm now looking to make this engine better in all aspects over stock internals but I need the advice / expertise from the folks here, especially the longtime builders and contributors. I know parts availability might be iffy after checking some sources. Are these the best options I listed? S&S being preferred? The shop has expertise building street to drag strip and restorations so I trust they won't steer me wrong but prior knowledge going in of my options is huge to me. Seeing we are splitting the cases, anything that can be done to ensure longevity I'm open to. It is going to get pricey, but I'm about knowing what I've got and trusting the build.
S&S
JIMS
TRUETT & OSBORNE
I hope everyone had a safe and satisfying Thanksgiving.
THANKS!!!
S&S
JIMS
TRUETT & OSBORNE
I hope everyone had a safe and satisfying Thanksgiving.
THANKS!!!
Labor to pull the motor and install the S&S will be a wash, money you were going to spend anyway. Sell the shovel you are removing to recoup some cost. Not what you asked for but just another option to consider.
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 554
Likes: 359
From: Bristol, CT
A bit of rod play is not usually cause for whole new flywheels. For a stock(ish) engine you can usually hone/lap the rod races and fit new oversize rollers and crankpin. They usually last pretty well if not over-revved etc. If your local shop can't do crank work, you can mail it to Truett and Osborne and they will do it and send it back.
But depends on what your local shop found in there.
But depends on what your local shop found in there.
Thanks!
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 759
Likes: 936
From: Under the affluence of incahol.
Since you mentioned you want a rider and since it's not the original engine then why not consider a new S&S SH 93. Warranty and reliability is a plus.Complete rebuild on your motor might be 3500 to 6000 depending on what they find once the motor is opened up.
Labor to pull the motor and install the S&S will be a wash, money you were going to spend anyway. Sell the shovel you are removing to recoup some cost. Not what you asked for but just another option to consider.
Labor to pull the motor and install the S&S will be a wash, money you were going to spend anyway. Sell the shovel you are removing to recoup some cost. Not what you asked for but just another option to consider.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,126
Likes: 51,457
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
For shovels I'm partial to TRUETT & OSBORNE stuff, you can get the wheel in several weights to match whatever build you are going for and I like their rods better than S&S's. Got a bucket full of bad S&S rod cores out of shovels, crank pins cratered in every one of them. Only thing is if you buy the raw wheels they come unbalanced so the builder has to do it or you order a complete flywheel assembly predone. Been using them since the late 70's
S&S and Jims are pricey for what you get and you are limited to choices.
Had to edit this I meant to say crank pin not the wrist pins. Most the engines they came out of didn't run long enough to wear those.
S&S and Jims are pricey for what you get and you are limited to choices.
Had to edit this I meant to say crank pin not the wrist pins. Most the engines they came out of didn't run long enough to wear those.
Last edited by TwiZted Biker; Nov 26, 2021 at 11:49 PM.
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 547
Likes: 383
From: Phoenix
Trending Topics
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
Likes: 5,449
From: la la land jerzey
With the gas today we only do 4 1/2 shovel wheels with 3 1/2 bore - its more power in torque and no extra strain on the life of the engine
if you ride like a human it will last a very long time - and a human i said
if you ride like a human it will last a very long time - and a human i said
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Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 554
Likes: 359
From: Bristol, CT
The advice is welcome. Front rod side play was more than double what tolerance it. We are definitely doing the whole engine. In the write up I'm seeing the S&S Flywheel 84" stroker kit DS09220161 - I know exactly what that is. Bad crank pins? Yeah that gives me pause, I'd have thought if it was that prevalent they's have know. They do a load of S&S kits and parts. I will get back to them about that concern. The cylinders were already .10 over so it'll be now .20 over .
I'll go back to the thread I started because I'm at a selection for cams...
I'll go back to the thread I started because I'm at a selection for cams...