Primary Oiler
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 1,171
From: St. Catharines, Ontario
The adjustment screw, is for the rear chain only. The manual quote pictured is wrong. I might guess its not an official HD publication.
The oil flow is controlled by the timing of the breather valve and partial vacuum in the crankcase.
The oil flow is controlled by the timing of the breather valve and partial vacuum in the crankcase.
Last edited by Baird; Sep 24, 2023 at 06:47 AM.
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Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 60
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From: North Dakota
That quote is for the section for the primary. And as you said the adjustment is for the rear chain. How is the manual quote wrong?
Ive read the quote Paul pictured as well. Its a different page is all. But it doesnt mention adjustment.
Last edited by jimessbee; Sep 24, 2023 at 06:50 AM.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 1,171
From: St. Catharines, Ontario
I was referring to the "orifice screw" part. If I'm not mistaken, the only orifice screw I see is the rear chain volume adjusting screw on the back of the oil pump.
Refer to page 3-9 of that manual and see item 11, the routing of the oil is right from the breather valve with no screw or other "throttling" means.
Refer to page 3-9 of that manual and see item 11, the routing of the oil is right from the breather valve with no screw or other "throttling" means.
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From: North Dakota
Supporter
Joined: Apr 2023
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From: The Late Great Golden State
For the suggestion to isolate the primary, what exactly are the advantages? Is it to create a streamlined system with more user control over things, or are there other benefits? The previous owner of my 1980 FLH disabled the rear chain oiler, which is good because I use a wax lube and I don’t want motor oil slinging off the chain. My primary chain oiler and scavenger works fine and I am guessing it’s been a reliable thing on the bike for many years. The chain looks good, the primary area is clean and has very little oil buildup. It seems like a good system that does what it’s supposed to do.
Last edited by WXSW; Sep 24, 2023 at 02:18 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 2,045
From: Phoenix
Thanks for posting that video, pretty cool. My 82 fxr is still set up that way and that's the way I'm going to keep it.
Closing off the primary and adding a 8 ounces of fluid didn't work for me on another shovel with a dry clutch.
Closing off the primary and adding a 8 ounces of fluid didn't work for me on another shovel with a dry clutch.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,711
Likes: 3,437
From: SW WA.
Speaking of, frankly I'd plug off the oiler and return lines, seal the primary case and run the wet or dry discs with just enough oil to catch the chain,I did that on my old FXR and ran a little ATF in the case to keep the chain lubed.
This also keeps clutch wear debris from going back into the motor oil ,even though it goes into the oil filter it's better to not have that at all.
Another thing I did was get the crankcase breather hose out of the airbox and plug the hole in the airbox so there's no oil going into your airleaner and carb.
Just run the vent line hose down under the motor and zip tie it to the frame,maybe put a little filter on the end of the hose.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: SW WA.
It worked great on my FXRS with Barnett wet or dry friction discs,while I was at it I upgraded the 3 finger plate to a 5 finger plate.
Supporter
Joined: Apr 2023
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From: The Late Great Golden State
That is a benefit. One of the advantages of having a dry clutch and the clutch in a separate case from the crankcase. Keep that debris away from the engine, but as you said it does go through the filter.