s&s carb
Road Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,161
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From: Potter County, PA
It has been a longtime but either 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 turns seems about right to get it going. Then after it is warmed up you turn it out until it starts running bad (sputtering, etc) while keeping track and then turn in; it will run good as it was and continue to turn in until it runs bad (sputters) again keeping track, and then split the difference is how we used to do it.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,607
Likes: 3,375
From: Cental, MI
It has been a longtime but either 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 turns seems about right to get it going. Then after it is warmed up you turn it out until it starts running bad (sputtering, etc) while keeping track and then turn in; it will run good as it was and continue to turn in until it runs bad (sputters) again keeping track, and then split the difference is how we used to do it.
Mike has ya Closer tho...
Last edited by Racepres; Oct 22, 2023 at 05:58 PM.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2018
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From: australia
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,126
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From: Niles Canyon Ca.
My old B's ran 1-1/2 turns out + or - an 1/8 turn either way if the jet was correct and the carb body wasn't worn causing air leaks. Problem with the older B carb was the shaft for the butterfly and the carb body itself wears out on the cable side, no bushing in the body, allows the butterfly to flutter against the carb throat inside wearing a groove so everything gets sloppy and starts sucking air.. Grab the arm and see if you can move it, any flex it's sucking air and the mixture screw will never set right. Got a bucket with bad B bodies with these issues, any you see at swapmeets or on Ebay, 90% chance that's why they are there.
Road Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,161
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From: Potter County, PA
It was a chore but I found B instructions at S&S. It said the idle mixture screw is close enough from the factory. I know it was somewhere between 1-1/4 and 1-1/2 turns out from memory. I did buy a "B" brand new from S&S back in the day. They say warm it up, set idle between 950-1000, adjust as I said, readjust idle. Then if you ever change the mid range jet, you must repeat the procedure. Also I agree 100% with the wear out factor on the bodies of "B"s at the shaft.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 2,171
Likes: 435
From: australia
It was a chore but I found B instructions at S&S. It said the idle mixture screw is close enough from the factory. I know it was somewhere between 1-1/4 and 1-1/2 turns out from memory. I did buy a "B" brand new from S&S back in the day. They say warm it up, set idle between 950-1000, adjust as I said, readjust idle. Then if you ever change the mid range jet, you must repeat the procedure. Also I agree 100% with the wear out factor on the bodies of "B"s at the shaft.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Cental, MI
Odd that didn't work...as It sounds Nothing Like the S&S instructions...
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From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Last edited by TwiZted Biker; Oct 23, 2023 at 01:04 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Cental, MI
Warm the bike up or better yet do this after a little ride. At an idle slowly turn the mixture screw in till the engine starts to choking, note the screw position. Now turn it out till the engine starts stumbling like its loading up. turn the mixture screw to half way between those two spots and you are set. Shovels and B's like it just a hair on the fat side of the mix and a higher idle since you don't have an accelerator pump for that little boost off idle. Try to tune one to someone's idea of correct plug color will give you headaches around town in stop and go traffic. B's do not tune like other carbs.
Last edited by Racepres; Oct 23, 2023 at 12:15 PM.
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