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The timing will get to full advance eventually with higher RPMs. Grounding the purple wire will allow full advance at a lower rpm, similar to ignition points.
If you're trying to "see" the timing advance as you accelerate without the purple wire grounded, that's near impossible.
Set the timing on the advance mark (line) with the purple wire connected and rpms above 2000. It will be correctly set and you can run it with the purple connected or not, whatever you like.
The timing will get to full advance eventually with higher RPMs. Grounding the purple wire will allow full advance at a lower rpm, similar to ignition points.
If you're trying to "see" the timing advance as you accelerate without the purple wire grounded, that's near impossible.
Set the timing on the advance mark (line) with the purple wire connected and rpms above 2000. It will be correctly set and you can run it with the purple connected or not, whatever you like.
I'm working by myself so it's hard to check the timing while manually revving the engine. I marked the flywheel with the timing marks and I'm looking through the chain inspection cover in the primary, so what I'm really looking for is any change in timing at differing rpms. I just went back out and tried it again. If I set the timing to the advance mark with the wire grounded at 2200 rpm it stays at the full advance mark when I lower the rpms down to low idle. If I unground the wire at idle the timing goes to roughly 15-20 degrees and does advance to near the full advance mark at 2200 rpm. Without the wire grounded the idle is lower and the response is definitely not as snappy. At this point, between not having any rev limiter and this voces switch nonsense, I'm thinking I'll pull the trigger on a Dynatek unit for it. I feel like this thing is gonna give me problems out on the road with this set up.
Something sounds off. Any ignition, what you have, Dynatek or points should all reduce the timing as the engine speed nears idle speed.
Run it with the wire unhooked and see how it runs before you drop a wad on a new module.
Agreed. The only thing I can think of is it doesn't have suppression wires on it. It still has the original solid core wires, though it does have resistor plugs. Maybe that's messin' with it? The Dynatek says you need to run carbon wires which I do have a set of. I guess you run resistor wires and resistor plugs with that unit? It has Autolite 4265 plugs in it and it came with an extra set so I just used them instead of buying new ones.
Agreed. The only thing I can think of is it doesn't have suppression wires on it. It still has the original solid core wires, though it does have resistor plugs. Maybe that's messin' with it? The Dynatek says you need to run carbon wires which I do have a set of. I guess you run resistor wires and resistor plugs with that unit? It has Autolite 4265 plugs in it and it came with an extra set so I just used them instead of buying new ones.
Yes, always use resistor wires and plugs with electronic ignition. I can't say for certain the copper wires caused the weird results but possible it had an unwanted effect.
Replacing the rotor is what made me able to get the timing correct so I think I'll do that. I'll leave the wire off and see how it runs. Like I said, it didn't run terrible before I took it apart so I don't think it'll be any worse. Leaving the wire off seems to be the way to run the Dynatek as well so I'm not sure it'll be worth the extra money to have a rev limiter and adjustable timing maps. Not to mention I'm not sure I can get that bolt out on the bottom of the gearcase cover that has the strap for the sensor wire without pulling the exhaust off. I'm gonna button this thing up and take it for a ride.
Always run suppression wires with any electronic ignition on the bike, copper core doesn't play well with them. Double check the dip switch settings and try curve 2 , voes wire ungrounded.
Always run suppression wires with any electronic ignition on the bike, copper core doesn't play well with them. Double check the dip switch settings and try curve 2 , voes wire ungrounded.
Done. I replaced them tonight. I had bought a set early on but never installed them. I didn't realize they were solid core and typically I treat solid core wires like lamp cords. If they look good and aren't cracked there's no reason to change them. Carbon core I'll change just because they're old. I put a little shrink tubing around the ground eye and slipped it in next to the ground screw in the harness in case I want to experiment with it. The ground is on the frame just ahead of the tank so it's easily accessible. My screamin eagle module is old. It doesn't have any dipswitches.
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