Another Clutch Question.....
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Another Clutch Question.....
As some of you may know, I just finished my first Harley build ('76 Superglide) and I have a few bugs I'm still working out. I rode the bike maybe a mile before I bought it....just to check the clutch and tranny. Everything seemed to be fine. Well, after teardown/build I'm having a problem with my clutch. It's not wanting to disengage when I pull the handle. I loosened the cable all the way, set my plate at 1 1/32 inch, adjusted the arm to 1/2 inch from the starter, then I ran the rod in all the way...backed it off a quarter turn...and locked it down. Finally, I adjusted the cable to about 1/16-1/8 in play in the handle. I even took the clutch apart and reinspected everything. It is the same clutch pack that was in the bike, but it's in good shape. I sprayed everything down and cleaned it....reassembled it the correct way. I staggered the clips and made sure everything went in the right direction. I was told by a well respected shop to just run an oil line from one fitting on the primary to the other fitting on the primary and add about a quart of motor oil. I've done this....I soaked the clutch pack before installing. I've done everything I can think of multiple times with no success. Like I said this is my first experience at this so maybe you experienced guys can get me on the road. PLEASE HELP! 
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,705
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From: Farmington ,MS
As some of you may know, I just finished my first Harley build ('76 Superglide) and I have a few bugs I'm still working out. I rode the bike maybe a mile before I bought it....just to check the clutch and tranny. Everything seemed to be fine. Well, after teardown/build I'm having a problem with my clutch. It's not wanting to disengage when I pull the handle. I loosened the cable all the way, set my plate at 1 1/32 inch, adjusted the arm to 1/2 inch from the starter, then I ran the rod in all the way...backed it off a quarter turn...and locked it down. Finally, I adjusted the cable to about 1/16-1/8 in play in the handle. I even took the clutch apart and reinspected everything. It is the same clutch pack that was in the bike, but it's in good shape. I sprayed everything down and cleaned it....reassembled it the correct way. I staggered the clips and made sure everything went in the right direction. I was told by a well respected shop to just run an oil line from one fitting on the primary to the other fitting on the primary and add about a quart of motor oil. I've done this....I soaked the clutch pack before installing. I've done everything I can think of multiple times with no success. Like I said this is my first experience at this so maybe you experienced guys can get me on the road. PLEASE HELP!
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Sounds like you bypassed the oiler and just put oil in the primary...thats good. I have had stock shovel clutches drag and move the bike several feet before releasing while cranking. Those clutches are not the greatest design to start with, and since the aftermarket is the only place to get parts for them now, they are even worse. There are several band-aids to make them work better but if you really want a nice clutch, do yourself a favor and get a Rivera Pro Clutch. It is a modern diaphragm clutch, bolt in... no more problems. Oh by the way...sweet looking bike.
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I've been thinking of switching it while I have it apart. I'm assuming regular ATF......does it take a full qt?? I've heard some say yes and some say less??? How high should I fill it?? Thanks
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Farmington ,MS
Most folks say to use type F...My derby cover likes to leak so I put as much as I can get in it with it on the jiffy stand...just a little less than a quart.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: SoCal
Something you can try is running your primary chain as loose as you can without it hitting anything.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: perth western australia
HI, Nice bike . Should only put enough oil in to reach the bottom of the clutch drum as it will throw onto the chain , usually only about a cupfull will do it. I also have been having clutch drag and no freeplay issues for about 15 years and think i found the reason the other day ,it has had an extra plate barnett clutch for years and i changed to an energy -one kit and a five finger basket and had the same thing happen ,so pulled one plate and one steelie ,(also read the bible and found that late shovels run 4&5 plates not the extra one) and now all seems to be very good smooth and releasing too
OK APOLOLIES ALL ROUND, had to put extra plates back in because after they settled in i ran out of adjustment on the threads to put a bit more pressure on the plate to stop a bit of slippage
OK APOLOLIES ALL ROUND, had to put extra plates back in because after they settled in i ran out of adjustment on the threads to put a bit more pressure on the plate to stop a bit of slippage
Last edited by police; May 16, 2010 at 04:20 AM.
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