Started or wire problem?
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2006
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From: Woodridge IL
Started or wire problem?
I've got a 1976 FLH with an electric/kick start. Sometimes when I hit the button to fire her up, there is nothing. Then when I go to hit the button again sometimes it catches sometimes it doesn't. At some point it will catch and fire up. I'm wondering if it could be a loose wire at the button or the starter is going. Any thoughts guys?
Tbone
Tbone
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Texas! Ya mean there's someplace else?
RE: Started or wire problem?
More 'n' likely it's one of three cheaper things than the starter: switch, relay, solenoid. The switch & relay tend to get water damage over the years. The solenoid passes a lot of current and the contacts get wasted.
Here's a check if you have no meter or test lamp to work with: When you push the starter switch, can you hear the solenoid operate? If the solenoid clicks, but the bike doesn't turn over, the solenoid contacts are probably shot. It could be the brushes or commutator on the starter motor, but that is relatively unusual. If you can't hear the solenoid click, find the relay located on the underside of the long chrome cover just below battery on the right side. Stick your hand/fingers on the relay, hit the start switch, and see if you can feel the relay click. These older style relays are very susceptible to water damage. If you can feel it click, or operates, and the solenoid doesn't click, the relay is probaly bad. If it doesn't seem to operate, then the starter switch needs looked at. Obviously, in all this checking you should be looking for loose or damaged connections.
I used to dump the relay and operate the solenoid directly from the handlebar switch. The switches would last about 6 months to 1 year because they aren't made to handle all that current. When my switch would go bad, I'd use a screwdriver to jump the solenoid, from the small wire connection to the large wire connection coming from the battery. Then I'd change the switch when I got a chance. I got tired of this and installed a spring return toggle switch on the back of the fork tins in place of the handlebar switch.
Here's a check if you have no meter or test lamp to work with: When you push the starter switch, can you hear the solenoid operate? If the solenoid clicks, but the bike doesn't turn over, the solenoid contacts are probably shot. It could be the brushes or commutator on the starter motor, but that is relatively unusual. If you can't hear the solenoid click, find the relay located on the underside of the long chrome cover just below battery on the right side. Stick your hand/fingers on the relay, hit the start switch, and see if you can feel the relay click. These older style relays are very susceptible to water damage. If you can feel it click, or operates, and the solenoid doesn't click, the relay is probaly bad. If it doesn't seem to operate, then the starter switch needs looked at. Obviously, in all this checking you should be looking for loose or damaged connections.
I used to dump the relay and operate the solenoid directly from the handlebar switch. The switches would last about 6 months to 1 year because they aren't made to handle all that current. When my switch would go bad, I'd use a screwdriver to jump the solenoid, from the small wire connection to the large wire connection coming from the battery. Then I'd change the switch when I got a chance. I got tired of this and installed a spring return toggle switch on the back of the fork tins in place of the handlebar switch.
1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2006
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RE: Started or wire problem?
It could possibly be a loose wire, but from my experience the button usually lasts about 2 good riding seasons..thats where I would start.
Just a quick test to make sure is try to jump across the leads on your solenoid, if it cranks replace the button. Not a hard job, just make sure you solder the connections.
Edited: Yea, what pococj said, we must have posted at the same time..sorry.
Just a quick test to make sure is try to jump across the leads on your solenoid, if it cranks replace the button. Not a hard job, just make sure you solder the connections.
Edited: Yea, what pococj said, we must have posted at the same time..sorry.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 38
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RE: Started or wire problem?
Ditto on all the aforementioned posts but one final thing - check (or just replace) the 30 amp circut breaker off the battery - I was having similar problems as you recently and couldn't find the problem until one day the engine quit entirely on me but as this was happining I noticed the oil/neutral lights flickering on and off. I got to thinking about what would cause ignition failure and removed the circut breakr and pried the cap off and discovered the points to be completely corroded. I replaced the breaker and ALL starting problems dissapeared.
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