Pushrod adjustment question
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 37
Likes: 1
From: North Texas
Pushrod adjustment question
Hey guys, I'm a new new shovel owner just starting to learn the ropes. I have an 82 FXRS and it runs pretty good, but I have notice a pronounced clatter that seemed to be coming from the front rocker cover. After reading lots of posts on PR adjustment, I decided to at least lift the covers and have a look.
My first question is whether you can tell by the pic or movie whether I have solids or hydraulics just looking at the top of them. I know with a bike this old, you never know what's been done.
Second, can you look at the movie and tell me if this much travel in the lifter is normal. I can't get any of the other ones to move this much, so I'm assuming not. I imagine this could cause a pretty loud clatter, right?
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Link to movie:
http://s1078.beta.photobucket.com/us...eb130.mp4.html
My first question is whether you can tell by the pic or movie whether I have solids or hydraulics just looking at the top of them. I know with a bike this old, you never know what's been done.
Second, can you look at the movie and tell me if this much travel in the lifter is normal. I can't get any of the other ones to move this much, so I'm assuming not. I imagine this could cause a pretty loud clatter, right?
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Link to movie:
http://s1078.beta.photobucket.com/us...eb130.mp4.html
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,158
Likes: 35
From: Gulf Breeze, FL
Looks to be hydraulic - Put lifter on base circle of cam (low point) - Loosen lock nut (top) and adjust with lower just until there is no noticeable shake - Continue to turn down adjuster four full turns and then tighten lock nut to 10 ft-lbs - Let sit for 10 minutes and you should be able to spin pushrod with fingertips - Don't turn the motor over until that pushrod spins - Repeat this process for remaining pushrods if needed
Last edited by rickss69; Aug 19, 2012 at 04:18 PM.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,114
Likes: 51,398
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Those are solid inserts not hydraulics , you can tell by the pushrod . See the big fat one piece non adjustable alum pushrod ? OEM had steel pushrods and they adjusted fom the tube down to the lifter . What you have there are cheapy solids and they are going to make noise just way they are made and the angles they run at on that front cylinder .
Adjustment is tough without a kicker as you have to get the wheel off the ground , pull the plugs , snick the tranny into 3rd or 4th gear and roll the engine or pull the primary cover and us a big wrench on the compensating nut to turn the motor . Then adjust the lifter till it turns free but has just a hair of drag on it , roll the motor over and check each a second time to make sure they didn't loosen up on you .
Adjustment is tough without a kicker as you have to get the wheel off the ground , pull the plugs , snick the tranny into 3rd or 4th gear and roll the engine or pull the primary cover and us a big wrench on the compensating nut to turn the motor . Then adjust the lifter till it turns free but has just a hair of drag on it , roll the motor over and check each a second time to make sure they didn't loosen up on you .
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 37
Likes: 1
From: North Texas
Thanks TwiZted. I did pretty much what you described with rolling the bike, plugs out in 5th gear to move the valvetrain. Got it adjusted correctly. I need to adjust the others as they are too tight. Can't spin them at all when they are on the base circle. Guess the PO was not the shovel mechanic he claimed he was.
You're right about the noise. Adjusting the loose pushrod quieted the loudest knock somewhat, but there's still a lot of clatter. I wonder what it'll sound like when I get the other three pushrods adjusted correctly, since I'll be loosening them to do it. Do you think it's worthwhile to switch to hydraulic? I'm not going to be racing this bike or running it to 7000 RPM, so I'm not sure why I would need solids. I'd just need to adjust them more often.
You're right about the noise. Adjusting the loose pushrod quieted the loudest knock somewhat, but there's still a lot of clatter. I wonder what it'll sound like when I get the other three pushrods adjusted correctly, since I'll be loosening them to do it. Do you think it's worthwhile to switch to hydraulic? I'm not going to be racing this bike or running it to 7000 RPM, so I'm not sure why I would need solids. I'd just need to adjust them more often.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,114
Likes: 51,398
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
They are a bit pricey but but Jims , Velva Touch and S&S make a very good hyd. lifter kit for shovels I'v run the Jims for years including big inch engines I beat on pretty good and love them . You can do the stock ones also if you not into bigger cams or getting the most HP from the bike .
I'd guess if the PO did the solids he also changed cams in it and there is a difference between hyd. and solid lifter cams so be aware .
I'd guess if the PO did the solids he also changed cams in it and there is a difference between hyd. and solid lifter cams so be aware .
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Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 37
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From: North Texas
I figured I'd have to swap cams and I'm not objected at all to a decent power gain. Any recommendations on a good hyd. street cam?
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Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,114
Likes: 51,398
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
I like the Vthunder series hyd cams for shovels but they need high lift valve springs & collars with any over the first step up . Good carb & pipes , heads setup up the mide range like the SH-4030 a shovel turns on good with the upgraded lifters , I run their cams in my 88" & 93" shovels I do .
Andrews hyd cams are a waste of time & money they don't make any horsepower till your up almost to highway cruising speeds and then it's weak that hard pull you should have isn't there .
Andrews hyd cams are a waste of time & money they don't make any horsepower till your up almost to highway cruising speeds and then it's weak that hard pull you should have isn't there .
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 979
Likes: 38
From: new orleans,la
that loose i would check the tappet wheel-- i run a leinweber L3S and have to re-adjust from time to time but thats ALOT of play -- better hope the wheel isnt going south. what can it take to pull the tappet block and see.. safe than sorry