'08 FLHTCU won't start after battery change
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 43
Likes: 2
Thanks. I put it on the charger overnight since the battery was slowing down after the various attempts. I picked up some carb cleaner and dielectric grease. I'm really beginning to think it's the wash that did me in. Sorry I didn't mention that earlier. I have washed the bike the same way before and didn't think anything of it.
I'd really like to check the injectors to see but even with the horn bracket off, I can't get my hands in there (with the tank on) to unplug them.
I'd really like to check the injectors to see but even with the horn bracket off, I can't get my hands in there (with the tank on) to unplug them.
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 43
Likes: 2
OK, some progress! I stopped and got some carb cleaner on the way home from work and took the air filter off and pumped some of it down the throttle body and it started instantly and ran for about 3 seconds and died. It's obviously fuel-starved. Tried it a few times. It was good to hear it roar to life, even if only for a few seconds.
So, I've got to concentrate on the fuel system between the tank (inside the tank) to the injectors. Any thoughts on where to focus first or just replace it all?
Where to get OEM parts these days? I used to order from Zanotti's but they've gone the way of the dinosaur.
Thanks!
So, I've got to concentrate on the fuel system between the tank (inside the tank) to the injectors. Any thoughts on where to focus first or just replace it all?
Where to get OEM parts these days? I used to order from Zanotti's but they've gone the way of the dinosaur.
Thanks!
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 264
From: Fresno Ca
OK, some progress! I stopped and got some carb cleaner on the way home from work and took the air filter off and pumped some of it down the throttle body and it started instantly and ran for about 3 seconds and died. It's obviously fuel-starved. Tried it a few times. It was good to hear it roar to life, even if only for a few seconds.
So, I've got to concentrate on the fuel system between the tank (inside the tank) to the injectors. Any thoughts on where to focus first or just replace it all?
Where to get OEM parts these days? I used to order from Zanotti's but they've gone the way of the dinosaur.
Thanks!
So, I've got to concentrate on the fuel system between the tank (inside the tank) to the injectors. Any thoughts on where to focus first or just replace it all?
Where to get OEM parts these days? I used to order from Zanotti's but they've gone the way of the dinosaur.
Thanks!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,172
Likes: 377
From: Georgia
OP, you still haven't said if you tried the quick disvonnect.
I agree, there shouldn't be anything spraying inside the tank.
The fact that it starts on starter fluid indicates the injectors are fine.
Your issue is likely to be in the tank.
I'm not much of one to be throwing parts at a problem but, if it were mine and I had to go into the tank, I'd install all new internals. Hoses, filter and maybe even the pump.
As for where to get parts, go where you feel comfortable. Your local dealer, ebay, online dealers like Boardtracker or Surdyke, maybe source some stuff like hoses from local auto parts stores.
I agree, there shouldn't be anything spraying inside the tank.
The fact that it starts on starter fluid indicates the injectors are fine.
Your issue is likely to be in the tank.
I'm not much of one to be throwing parts at a problem but, if it were mine and I had to go into the tank, I'd install all new internals. Hoses, filter and maybe even the pump.
As for where to get parts, go where you feel comfortable. Your local dealer, ebay, online dealers like Boardtracker or Surdyke, maybe source some stuff like hoses from local auto parts stores.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 264
From: Fresno Ca
#8 is the fuel filter shell. #4 is the retainer that goes through the shell to hold it tightly to #19. The tabs with holes through them on #8 can break and then gas sprays out around the o-ring #2. I have had this happen twice. The new filter shells are thicker to resist breaking. That and plugged filters have caused fuel pressure problems for me. The shell breaking is something that can definitely happen to a bike that is sitting. I have bought a lot of parts online from Surdyke
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,476
Likes: 3,003
From: Charleston, SC
On a near empty tank that spraying gas could be from the regulator (#5 in the diagram) but I'm with Mike, it's probably your fuel filter shell cracked or dislodged.
Pull the console, and use a wood drift and rubber mallet to spin the cam (#18) loose - it's super easy, cover your tank with something first though. Pull the whole assembly up carefully and take a look at the fuel filter shell.
Pull the console, and use a wood drift and rubber mallet to spin the cam (#18) loose - it's super easy, cover your tank with something first though. Pull the whole assembly up carefully and take a look at the fuel filter shell.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,236
Likes: 95
From: lancaster, pa
like i mentioned, got the down hose(assembly),filter(came with cross hose),regulator and houseing(both cheap insurance) from...I think surdyke right around $200. wish i got the seal on top of the tank but got lucky and reused.
A year later fuel pump failure reard its ugly head, so might want to do that while your there.
only $49 at the fuel pump factory. Thats the only corner so to speak I cut, price difference for the pump was obsene
A year later fuel pump failure reard its ugly head, so might want to do that while your there.
only $49 at the fuel pump factory. Thats the only corner so to speak I cut, price difference for the pump was obsene
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,447
Likes: 463
From: USA
From the service manual, Caution! Disconnect battery before draining fuel tank.
Good luck!
Last edited by Taggs; Oct 9, 2017 at 07:56 PM.