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John from Darkhorse got my crank apart and gave me the news. Rod races, crank pin, and crank bearing all in bad shape so they're getting swapped out with some of their Comp. H-beam rods, and the pinion shaft has a deep gouge in the bearing race so that's getting swapped out too with an S&S replacement. Basically they're only reusing the flywheels and primary shaft. More than I was planning on spending but oh well, at least the whole bottom end will be fresh.
Thinking about one of the HVHP S&S pumps. Thoughts?
It will be worth it the first time you get to really crank it up and twist WOT. Mine was rebuilt at Kendall Johnson's and I absolutely love it - the look on the TC riders faces when you run away from them is priceless because they don't think an EVO will perform like that. Mine's dialed back a little to not be so loud and I'm still at 87\87 for a .010 over 80". We could probably squeeze more out of it but it still pulls up the front wheel of a bagger. It would be fun to try it in a lighter bike. I also get low to mid 40's MPG with a Wood CV carb.
John from Darkhorse got my crank apart and gave me the news. Rod races, crank pin, and crank bearing all in bad shape so they're getting swapped out with some of their Comp. H-beam rods, and the pinion shaft has a deep gouge in the bearing race so that's getting swapped out too with an S&S replacement. Basically they're only reusing the flywheels and primary shaft. More than I was planning on spending but oh well, at least the whole bottom end will be fresh.
Thinking about one of the HVHP S&S pumps. Thoughts?
Sounds like John has you set up. Did you send your cases for him to put the bottom end together?
With all the work Darkhorse did on mine, the cases were sent to him to line lap them. Also theyhad to machine the main bearing race because the main bearing was just spinninginside the race.
It will be worth it the first time you get to really crank it up and twist WOT. Mine was rebuilt at Kendall Johnson's and I absolutely love it - the look on the TC riders faces when you run away from them is priceless because they don't think an EVO will perform like that. Mine's dialed back a little to not be so loud and I'm still at 87\87 for a .010 over 80". We could probably squeeze more out of it but it still pulls up the front wheel of a bagger. It would be fun to try it in a lighter bike. I also get low to mid 40's MPG with a Wood CV carb.
With all the work Darkhorse did on mine, the cases were sent to him to line lap them. Also theyhad to machine the main bearing race because the main bearing was just spinninginside the race.
How do you line lap the Timken side of the case? That's a special Timken race, not supposed to be line lapped.
My S&S case was final honed at the pinion bearing side to 1.751". From that I will mic the pinion shaft once I get it back from Darkhorse, then buy an applicable bearing from HD so my clearances are within tolerance.
How do you line lap the Timken side of the case? That's a special Timken race, not supposed to be line lapped.
My S&S case was final honed at the pinion bearing side to 1.751". From that I will mic the pinion shaft once I get it back from Darkhorse, then buy an applicable bearing from HD so my clearances are within tolerance.
I'm not sure on exactly how they did that or if it was on the Timken side. The bearing was loose in the race. They did the machine work on the case, did the crank work, put the bottom end back together and it's smooth.
I'm not sure on exactly how they did that or if it was on the Timken side. The bearing was loose in the race. They did the machine work on the case, did the crank work, put the bottom end back together and it's smooth.
I always thought a line lap was driving a hone through the entire device so a common diameter was maintained throughout the whole length, like with a camshaft or crankshaft on a Chevy V8.
Regardless,sounds to me like your bearing was too small and race was honed too large, but I'm guessing you knew this. HD sells larger bearings.
Personally I'm more worried about getting the spacer in the Timken affair right, I'm not a fan of pressing out a crank I just spent $1000 on having rebuilt and balanced.
EDIT - To expand, from the Axtell website their line lap service:
"This operation insures that the pinion race is round and straight with the timken. The I.D. finish size is recorded for bearing size selection."
Last edited by Mattbastard; Feb 7, 2018 at 05:27 PM.
Right now I have both Timken bearings and the spacer that came with it. There was a note inside the box that says in huge bold letters THIS IS A MATCHED SET. I also have the empty crankcase just sitting in my office ready for the crank to be installed.
Why couldn't I simply measure the play between the two bearings right now? I could use a bolt with some large fender washers to simulate the bearings being pressed onto the crankshaft with one on each side of the race and the spacer in the middle. Lay the case half on its side so the bearings are pulled down by gravity, set my micrometer on the other side and just push up on the bottom of the bolt to measure clearance.
Would that work? Would pressing the bearings onto the crank do anything different regarding the bearing clearance measurement?
Put a couple dents in the project this weekend. Finished the wiring and got the Nacelle bolted up but forgot to take a pic.
Worked on the saddlebag mounts a bit. Long story short, I hate the current mounting. All that shoddy tubing all over the place, along with the damn crash bar in front of the bag, I can design better.
That's just the front.
How it looks mocked up, but upon deeper inspection those bags are getting tossed. They're in really bad shape, so I ordered some Hardstreet Kinger bags (google it). Tracking says I'll have them by Friday.
I also could never wrap my mind around how to fab the back saddlebag brackets, which will double as a rack mount for my Givi trunk, so F#@K IT, cut em' off and start from scratch!
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