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What pulley bolts?

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Old Mar 23, 2018 | 09:46 AM
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Default What pulley bolts?

Had to pull my rear pulley so I need new bolts: OEM or ARP?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2018 | 10:09 AM
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I was about to replace mine with ARP but, did like the thickness of the of washers that came with the set i bought vs the heft of the stock ones. That was just me and I'm sure that is an unpopular view.

kit is arp 614-2500. I'll sell you mine cheap if you want it. $15 + shipping
 
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Old Mar 23, 2018 | 10:54 AM
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Yeah, MoCo uses heavy washers. I'm not completely sure why. It may be to limit the potential for fracturing of the pulley hub since they are likely cast. May be to spread the load further to help prevent flow and loosening if the pulleys are too ductile. Regardless, heavy washers can found in nearly any size, thickness, and material combination at places like McMaster-Carr.

Just a few examples...



I'm using ARP stainless with standard washers but I'm also using a PBI 7075 billet sprocket so I'm not worried about spreading the clamp load. I've only got about 5k miles on it...and one massive crash...but the sprocket and bolts held up fine despite ruining the hub they're bolted to. Time will tell.
 

Last edited by cggorman; Mar 23, 2018 at 11:46 AM.
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Old Mar 23, 2018 | 11:40 AM
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Cggorman (or cgmacgyver, as cvaria calls him) often reminds me just how much there is to know about everything.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2018 | 12:36 PM
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ARP, worth the peace of mind.

Ive reused the OEM bolts with no trouble after swapping pulleys and needing to install a spacer, but it's always in the back of my mind that they may come loose. But I cleaned and applied loctite to the bolts and torqued to spec per the service manual, then paint marked them so I could easily see if they started to back out and haven't had the slightest bit of movement out it them in 10k miles. But I did buy the ARP bolts as I'll be taking the pulley, spacer, and wheel apart for powder coating next tire change. Figured for the cost of ARP bolts it was worth it to go to a stronger and better looking bolt while getting rid of the problem prone stockers.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2018 | 12:44 PM
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...just don't forget the Loctite & torque wrench.

Tarik, you're too kind! I only know enough to get myself into deep ****.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2018 | 03:17 PM
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I used longer ARP bolts so the bolt shoulder (unthreaded portion) entered the hub. Now the hub is being driven by the bolts strongest area without the threads acting as a stress riser. I then bushed the sprocket holes down from .460" to.440" to tighten up clearance with the full .437" ARP's. Factory sprocket bolts are wasted (smaller in diameter below the head) and only measure around .390" which makes the bolts LOOSE in the sprocket.


I also drilled and safety wired.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2018 | 04:03 PM
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Blue Bob what washers are those?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2018 | 10:47 PM
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I made my own 316 SS .875" x .187" I also believe larger diameter helps with load distribution but strongly feel the loose fit of the factory bolts and exposed threads inside unsupported holes are the main culprit of loosening and sheared bolts.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2018 | 08:21 AM
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This thread motivated me to get off my dead *** and install the bolts on my spare wheel.
The Harley washers are .125 thick and 1.110 in dia. gal, steel. 4140?
The Diamond Engineering washers are .125 thick and 1.125 in dia. 18-8 stainless.
To me, the clear choice is the Diamond Engineering kit
 
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