Hey boys, anyone have a link to the tools needed to remove and install the seals?

 

I was in the same boat as you.
I asked around and got some good info, especially where it came to taking apart and reassembling the forks. It was far easier than I thought it would be.
First of all, spring for the Service Manual if you haven't already...
Here's a really good 3-part video that shows how to disassemble/reassemble the fork sliders. The Slim is nearly identical to this...
Next make sure you have the right tools.
Two special items you'll need are a Fork Cap wrench: Fork Cap Socket for HD
and a long 6MM allen socket - I found one at Lowe's of all places: Kobalt 3/8-in Drive Hex 6-in Driver Socket

An impact gun is also recommended, although I found I really didn't need one.
Some say they have a hard time dislodging that bottom damper bolt without one (the long 6MM). Mine just cracked loose without too much trouble - of Of course the bike only had about 400 miles on it so that may have helped...
Correction - I did need to use it once, on those drain screws on the bottom, rear of the forks - those bad boys were IN there...

Tearing the front end down was easy - remove the fender, caliper (10MM metric needed) front wheel, headlight, aux. lights, and tree shrouds. I found I had to unbolt the gas tank and just slide it backwards about 2" to access the headlight connector. Piece of cake.

After all that I took some 13 pieces to get powdercoated - sliders, including the right-side cap at the bottom, slider covers, light trims (3), risers (3 pcs.) and even the two shroud trim strips off the sides.
To reassemble, save yourself a lot of trouble and just get [2] "Fork Rebuild Kits" from H-D (p/n 49377-09A) and a set of new drain screws and washers (p/n 45858-77) - and don't forget [2] pints of the Type E fork oil.

If I had to do it all over again, I bet I could do the whole job in under 3-4 hours...
The hardest part was getting the fork tube plugs back in after refilling with oil, but if you have a spare set of hands, even this wasn't all that hard. I got both started on the first try - (watch the videos).

Here's mine, before and after:

 

That black front end looks waaaay better

 

So I got my fork cap socket in today, and there's still not enough room under the bars. The question I have is, do the fork caps hold the forks from sliding through the upper part of the triple tree? In other words, do I have to remove the fork cap before I slide the forks down? If so, the bars are going to have to come off, as I now have 1.5" risers. There's just not enough room to get a socket wrench into that space, unless somebody knows of a really flat bar with a socket end that they can suggest.

 

Yes, that top piece needs to be unscrewed (and the pinch bolts need to be loosened) before you can begin to slide the fork legs out of the top tree.

I have really low riders too. What I do is grip the top of the cap socket with pliers or with one of those wrenches that have the adjustable jaw and turn it that way. It's a bitch but it works

I don't know what kind of bars you have but you can always unscrew the bolts that hold your risers to the top tree, you might be able to gain enough clearance to get the wrench in there depending on how much thread the bokts have.
Or just carefully lay the bars on top of the tank, as soon as you loosen the cap nuts re-attach the bars to the tree and keep moving forward with the project.

 

We use a traditional wrench to loosen the caps, they fit under all handlebars and are long enough to get good leverage to break the caps loose.

 

I'm going to look for a thin topped breaker bar. I'll either have to take the bars off, buy a new wrench, or that bar. It will require one of the three, cause it ain't happening with what I've got.

 

Ready for the "well, duh" moment of the day? I went out to check out exactly how much room I do have under the bars when the special fork cap socket is on the fork cap. It's essentially none. However, that's when I noticed that that tool has a hex nut built in on top! It's bigger than 7/8 and I think it's about 1". At any rate, my adjustable goes bigger, so we (my wrench and me) don't much care. There is room for that, so problem solved with nothing to buy.

 

That's why I said to use pliers. Have fun!

 

Apparently, you have to REALLY spell things out for me to get it!