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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 08:43 PM
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Default Tool advice

About ready to start on my chrome fork lowers/Progressive monotube install project. I need some tool advice. What size wrench do I need for the slider tube cap? I'm pretty sure I don't have it, since I stop at 15/16. Also, how long does the 6mm hex wrench need to be to be able to remove the socket screw at the end of the fork slider that allows for the removal of the damper and fork tubes from the slider? Any advice on the project as a whole appreciated.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 08:55 PM
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Here's a link to the fork cap socket.
http://www.googleadservices.com/page...3Forigin%3Dpla
The 6MM Ball End Allen wrenches can be had at Sears and usually only come about 6 inches long.
You'll need a decent measuring cup for the fork oil.
A good bench vise for hold the legs to break loose the cap screw in the bottom is handy but can done without it.
A seal seating tool or piece of PVC pipe to seat the new seals will be needed as well.
Use care when unscrewing the the cap that holds the spring in.
Have fun!
 

Last edited by QC; Nov 23, 2014 at 09:01 PM.
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by QC
Here's a link to the fork cap socket.
http://www.googleadservices.com/page...3Forigin%3Dpla
The 6MM Ball End Allen wrenches can be had at Sears and usually only come about 6 inches long.
You'll need a decent measuring cup for the fork oil.
A good bench vise for hold the legs to break loose the cap screw in the bottom is handy but can done without it.
A seal seating tool or piece of PVC pipe to seat the new seals will be needed as well.
Use care when unscrewing the the cap that holds the spring in.
Have fun!
Thanks! Glad to find out about the short cap socket. I just finished changing the bars out 2 weeks ago and wasn't really looking forward to having to take them off already.
If you watch the YouTube video from Progressive, they don't act like messing with the seals is necessary. I've noticed that everyone on this site seems to agree that they need to be changed. Some suggest that this changeout can be done without complete disassembly. If that's done and the seals aren't removed, do they really need to be changed?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 10:09 PM
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If you can do it without taking the tubes out, and they aren't leaking, by all means, leave them alone.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by QC
If you can do it without taking the tubes out, and they aren't leaking, by all means, leave them alone.
I'm going to give it a try. On my mechanical skill level, it's best to leave as many parts in place as possible.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Dieselvol
I'm going to give it a try. On my mechanical skill level, it's best to leave as many parts in place as possible.

LOL - I sure wish I had told myself that a hundred times before!! But, ya learn by doing and asking a ton of questions - Good Luck. Usually the fear of screwing it up is much greater than the actual repair skills needed.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by QC
Here's a link to the fork cap socket.

The 6MM Ball End Allen wrenches can be had at Sears and usually only come about 6 inches long.
You'll need a decent measuring cup for the fork oil.
A good bench vise for hold the legs to break loose the cap screw in the bottom is handy but can done without it.
A seal seating tool or piece of PVC pipe to seat the new seals will be needed as well.
Use care when unscrewing the the cap that holds the spring in.
Have fun!
Good write-up.

I don't have a bench vice, so before releasing the pinch bolts on the triple trees, I loosened the cap screws at the bottom of the legs, and tightened them fully again once the pinch bolts were tight.

I did not need to mess with the seals, but you'll be forced to do this if the small aluminum cup at the bottom of the legs gets dislodged - if you pull the old internals out gently these should stay in place - if the cup at the bottom of the legs gets dislodged, you wont be able to get the cap screws in, then you'll need to pull the seal retaining spring clip and seal, to get the small cup back in place.

Don't forget that there's one small spring from the original spring set that needs to go on the Monotube - I say this because I had to pull them apart a second time to install the small top-out spring.

All in all it took me about 1.5 hours working on my own with only basic hand tools.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 1004ron
Good write-up.

I don't have a bench vice, so before releasing the pinch bolts on the triple trees, I loosened the cap screws at the bottom of the legs, and tightened them fully again once the pinch bolts were tight.

I did not need to mess with the seals, but you'll be forced to do this if the small aluminum cup at the bottom of the legs gets dislodged - if you pull the old internals out gently these should stay in place - if the cup at the bottom of the legs gets dislodged, you wont be able to get the cap screws in, then you'll need to pull the seal retaining spring clip and seal, to get the small cup back in place.

Don't forget that there's one small spring from the original spring set that needs to go on the Monotube - I say this because I had to pull them apart a second time to install the small top-out spring.

All in all it took me about 1.5 hours working on my own with only basic hand tools.
"They" say that if you'll keep the forks collapsed, that cup will stay in place. That's my plan, but I'm not sure exactly when to collapse. It may be obvious once I'm underway.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Dieselvol
"They" say that if you'll keep the forks collapsed, that cup will stay in place. That's my plan, but I'm not sure exactly when to collapse. It may be obvious once I'm underway.
Keeping them upright with the weight on the old internals pressing down on the cups until the time that you gently lift them out and while still upright gently lower in the new Monotubes.

They press in but with a very small shoulder, so stay in fairly well, just can't take a bump.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 1004ron
Keeping them upright with the weight on the old internals pressing down on the cups until the time that you gently lift them out and while still upright gently lower in the new Monotubes.

They press in but with a very small shoulder, so stay in fairly well, just can't take a bump.
I wanted to wait to respond until I could get home and look at the shop manual so as to nail all of the terminology. Then as soon as I got home, I got called back into work for 3 hours. Nice. The "keep it collapsed" advice made me think that the slider tube has something to do with keeping that cup in place. I think that "cup" is called the lower stop in the service manual. Is that right? If so, I can see how pushing the slider tube all the way to the bottom of the slider would give that part less room to move. So I'm thinking, remove the fork tube plug, push the slider tube all the way down, remove the internals, put the monotube in, pull the slider tube back up, tighten the fork tube plug, and reassemble the rest. Do it again on the other side and go for a ride. Am I thinking right?
 
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