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204's are awesome across the board in all categories. Not a rock star in any one category, but very good in all, IMO. I was talking to the guy in the shop that did my map and we weren't even talking about cams. He was asking what all was done to the motor. When I said 204 cams, he cut me off and said "ohh, great cam. Tunes very well." I found that significant since I wasn't even asking cam choice/opinions.
Here's 204's, Bassani pro streets, SE heavy breather, and TTS tuner with a custom map...
I've been through all your posts on the pulleys and while more would be better I'm pretty strapped for cash at the moment but had already purchased the 68t. So getting into the front pulley is just out of reach right now. As for the FP3 and PV I chose the FP3 for ease of use as well as the fact it seems like V&H is constantly adding new features to it. Not sure what exactly it includes but the app does have the option to select which cams besides stock now. It also has a table to input your drive ratios. I'll flash it after this install and autotune a few times and then definitely check back here for some possible other tweaks. Thanks.
Michael
Originally Posted by LA_Dog
sure thing- in ref to saving cash, you could hold off on the 68t, sell the sporty pulley and pick up a good deal on a 70t- they do come up regularly on ebay, Ness / DNA / PM or FLHT pulleys $100 or less. it's the same install cost to have it put on and for the same price you'd get twice the performance gain.
for the cam it will require different timing to run optimally- there are different intake open / close events with the se204 cam vs stock cam and the tune in the ECM needs to be adjusted for the new cam timing events at very least- not just the timing tables but also some other parameters in the ECM tuning that are hidden from us. That can all be done with the PV and also HD's specific tune files for the se204 have those parameters adjusted- just not sure about the FP3 (RockerB would know). Again, only mentioning this since you are indeed outlaying cash for benefit of performance, and this information will help you get the most out of what you're spending.
The FP3 will make all the necessary ECM adjustments to the tune when you edit in the new cam to your current map....You won't have to edit the "gear" ratios, if that's what you meant by "drive" ratios??, but you will want to run the speedo re-calibration feature after changing to the 68t pulley, or the better option, a 70t like LA Dog suggests!!
Last edited by Rocker B; Mar 19, 2016 at 01:53 AM.
Been on the forums for a few months. I've posted a bit and read a lot. I am only somewhat mechanically inclined but am very good at reading instructions and remembering how things came apart or go back together. So with that and the service manual I purchased I have attempted to do most of the modifications myself with the exception of the typical stage 1(pipes, air filter, tune) I had HD do first thing. Yes I know the HD tune, if you can even call it that, is not so good but it's a start until I do more down the road. Now after finally getting my handlebar swap completed I have decided to post my progress and start a thread for Lyla(yes I name my bikes). I will keep updating the thread as I change out more parts and I have pictures of just about everything before and after but not many in progress or how to pictures.
I looked for months to find a slightly used but good condition Breakout in black for a decent deal. Here she is loaded on the trailer to come home and then in her new home. 770 miles on her and mostly stock. Reflectors had been removed and a sissy bar and daymaker were installed. Rest was stock.
Michael
Very first changes were as mentioned before the usual stage one and I also removed the tank badges and rear deflector. Vance & Hines big radius 2-2 in black and for the air cleaner I chose the PM Super Gas with a PM Heathen faceplate. Harley super tuner and all that jazz to go along with it which will later be changed at the same time I add cams. My normal two riding buddies also got me a new gremlin bell which can be barely seen at the bottom. Oh and I also purchased a new rear tire at 1100 miles because somehow during that first 200-250 miles I picked up a screw.
Michael
Next I removed the stock license plate holder and installed an axle mounted bracket from eBay seller accufast2d with a Custom Dynamics LED lit curved plate frame. I routed the new wiring for the plate lights on the inside of the swingarm and used a couple zip ties to hold it in place. I spliced the wiring from the plate frame into the old license plate wires so as to use the same connector and placed clear protective tape/film on the swingarm under each zip tie location to protect my paint.
While I had my rear fender off I decided that was the perfect time to paint my fender supports as well. I took them off the rear fender and cleaned and scratched them up good and used a couple cans of spray on bedliner in textured black and then once everything dried I put it all back together.
Michael
Also completed the blackline dash swap and installed a flush mount pop up gas cap which everyone has seen multiple times. These two additions were huge changes to the way the tank flows and looks. Should've been this way stock. Also purchased a Danny Gray buttcrack solo and will hopefully soon add the passenger pillion. I installed Kuryakyn zombie levers and scythe mirrors. I wanted my mirrors black to begin with but liked the low profile of the scythe II which only comes in chrome. I purchased scythe II mirrors with plans to have them powdercoated black. I then confirmed with Kuryakyn support that all of their scythe mirror heads are identical so instead I found a pair of black mirror heads for cheap and installed them and ended up liking the contrast so I left the stems chrome. Also bought a bullet style headlight bucket from forum member alain and modified the retaining rings and everything to make it work with my daymaker. Added black front axle nut covers and removed the chrome horn cover too. Starting to come along but still a lot to do.
Michael
And last but not least for now my handlebar swap to bring her up to present day. I wanted to keep a somewhat lower profile similar to the stock drag bars yet needed more pull back. Some have used additional riser spacers or swapped to the CVO bars but I wanted something different. And of course since I'm blacking out a lot of the bike I wanted black. I chose Carlini bag drag bars. Similar in dimensions to the CVO bars but different styling. One inch less rise and one inch more pullback. I had already purchased Kuryakyn kinetic grips with matching throttle boss but waited to install them on the new bars instead of installing twice. Handlebars mounted without much issue but with the stock risers I had zero slack in my throttle, idle, and front brake cables. Probably not enough to hurt anything but I wasn't comfortable with it. So after more reading and searching I ordered a set of short black risers from Thunderbike to give my cables a bit more slack. The handlebars flow much better without the height and pullback of the stock risers and I now have just enough cable on full turn both directions. I may later switch my cables to dress it up a little and if I do I will probably add a couple inches but it's not needed. Because the Carlini bars I chose have a 1" clamp area I also had to install the Wild 1 handlebar adapters to bring them up to the stock 1.25". I've only been able to take one very short ride with the new bars but it's night and day difference in comfort already. Also added a black upper belt guard and smoked visor rings to my front turn signals.
Michael
Future mods include black primary, cam, pushrod, and rocker box covers and are already purchased. Just waiting to install them next. I will probably have the rocker box, cam, and pushrod covers installed at the same time I have cams and an actual tune done. I'll also be getting new rear brake and toe shifter levers and of course pegs but haven't fully decided on which yet. Top clamp/speedo bracket and my trees will be powdercoated black. When funds are available I'll also be installing either a shotgun shock or progressive rear suspension to get it lowered slightly. For now this is her, though. And I love this bike.
Michael
Which one of these Carlini Bag Drag bar will fit my 2016 Breakout?
As Michael wrote the BO has a 1.25 in diameter handle bar at the speedo-clamp. At both ends it's a reduced diameter of 1 in. AFAIK.
If you're not sure why don't you just call Carlini and check with them.
All of the bars technically fit as long as you get a shim to step up from 1" to 1.25". The method I used for this was taking a .25" thick black hose that has a 1" internal diameter. Michael found one online that was more metal based though I couldn't find that one personally. The black rubber hose works fine for me though and is a super cheap option.
that's a nice chart - very smooth and love that early TQ.
It is! IMO, a highly overlooked cam, especially for the guy like me with no head/engine work nowhere in the future. Sounds great and drive ability is amazing...but that's all probably attributed to the custom map. Well worth the money. I know we as s collective group like to tinker and do our own work, but tuning is not one of those items. Spend the money; you'll be glad you did.
The FP3 will make all the necessary ECM adjustments to the tune when you edit in the new cam to your current map....You won't have to edit the "gear" ratios, if that's what you meant by "drive" ratios??, but you will want to run the speedo re-calibration feature after changing to the 68t pulley, or the better option, a 70t like LA Dog suggests!!
Yes I was meaning gear ratios. Already played around with the FP3 enough to find the cam selection. Bike is done and just waiting for me to pick it up. Will make the adjustment for the cams and should be ready to go. I went ahead with the 68t because I already had it and because of some timing issues on waiting for another. Might upgrade to a 70t later. Definitely looking forward to picking her up.
All of the bars technically fit as long as you get a shim to step up from 1" to 1.25". The method I used for this was taking a .25" thick black hose that has a 1" internal diameter. Michael found one online that was more metal based though I couldn't find that one personally. The black rubber hose works fine for me though and is a super cheap option.
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