Breakout wheel change problems
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 111
Likes: 2
From: MA
Start that new thread for the grips and lets get to solving that problem. Lolol
I think you're on the right path already. It doesn't really have anything to do with the bars being straight.
What brand grips are you using ?
Does your throttle snap back to neutral after you let it go?
Your idle cable might be a little too long allowing you to continue to rotate the grip after the throttle cam hits the stop.
I think you're on the right path already. It doesn't really have anything to do with the bars being straight.
What brand grips are you using ?
Does your throttle snap back to neutral after you let it go?
Your idle cable might be a little too long allowing you to continue to rotate the grip after the throttle cam hits the stop.
I'll start a new thread. But just like the wheels I've done all the normal checking. Everything is good except I can twist it the opposite direction(with little force) and it sticks in the housing. I don't think the cable is what stops the grips? It should be stops on the grip and or housing. I have new cables I'm installing anyway soon. I'll see what happens when I do that first. You've done enough for me already....ha And yes I've bought two new sets of grips to see if it was them. And it was perfect at one point. It just happened. Like the housing stop is worn out. But when I take apart I can't figure out where this stop would be. But haven't really dug in yet. I went with the new Burst series grips and foot pegs. I love them!!!
You can kind of see them in attached pic. And yes, that's the mini garage I have to work in!!!!!
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,762
Likes: 12
From: north jersey
The stop for the grips is incorporated into the portion of the grips where the idle and throttle cable ferrules attach to the grip.
Lift up the top half of the hand control housing and work the throttle back and forth. You'll be able to see then where the stop is supposed to be.
It could also be the hand control housing is worn in that area where the grip is supposed to stop.
To be honest with you man, that is not really a big deal. I did a bar swap on my wife's sportster a couple of weeks ago and I had the same issue.
I adjusted the cables to where the throttle snapped back to closed (making sure it did it no matter which way the bars were turned). And I left it alone.
If I was to roll the throttle clockwise past the point where it's closed it would roll forward.
I test drove the bike and it wasn't an issue. She's put about 300 miles since then and it's working just fine.
I know what you mean about having your machine running 100% right. I was just like you. Take it from me, these things have a personality of their own. They are going to test your patience and will.
sometimes you have to do your best to get it running safely and move on to the next project.
Lift up the top half of the hand control housing and work the throttle back and forth. You'll be able to see then where the stop is supposed to be.
It could also be the hand control housing is worn in that area where the grip is supposed to stop.
To be honest with you man, that is not really a big deal. I did a bar swap on my wife's sportster a couple of weeks ago and I had the same issue.
I adjusted the cables to where the throttle snapped back to closed (making sure it did it no matter which way the bars were turned). And I left it alone.
If I was to roll the throttle clockwise past the point where it's closed it would roll forward.
I test drove the bike and it wasn't an issue. She's put about 300 miles since then and it's working just fine.
I know what you mean about having your machine running 100% right. I was just like you. Take it from me, these things have a personality of their own. They are going to test your patience and will.
sometimes you have to do your best to get it running safely and move on to the next project.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 111
Likes: 2
From: MA
The stop for the grips is incorporated into the portion of the grips where the idle and throttle cable ferrules attach to the grip.
Lift up the top half of the hand control housing and work the throttle back and forth. You'll be able to see then where the stop is supposed to be.
It could also be the hand control housing is worn in that area where the grip is supposed to stop.
To be honest with you man, that is not really a big deal. I did a bar swap on my wife's sportster a couple of weeks ago and I had the same issue.
I adjusted the cables to where the throttle snapped back to closed (making sure it did it no matter which way the bars were turned). And I left it alone.
If I was to roll the throttle clockwise past the point where it's closed it would roll forward.
I test drove the bike and it wasn't an issue. She's put about 300 miles since then and it's working just fine.
I know what you mean about having your machine running 100% right. I was just like you. Take it from me, these things have a personality of their own. They are going to test your patience and will.
sometimes you have to do your best to get it running safely and move on to the next project.
Lift up the top half of the hand control housing and work the throttle back and forth. You'll be able to see then where the stop is supposed to be.
It could also be the hand control housing is worn in that area where the grip is supposed to stop.
To be honest with you man, that is not really a big deal. I did a bar swap on my wife's sportster a couple of weeks ago and I had the same issue.
I adjusted the cables to where the throttle snapped back to closed (making sure it did it no matter which way the bars were turned). And I left it alone.
If I was to roll the throttle clockwise past the point where it's closed it would roll forward.
I test drove the bike and it wasn't an issue. She's put about 300 miles since then and it's working just fine.
I know what you mean about having your machine running 100% right. I was just like you. Take it from me, these things have a personality of their own. They are going to test your patience and will.
sometimes you have to do your best to get it running safely and move on to the next project.
Trust me, not a big deal at all. I only have trouble with it when I have gloves on because you lose a little of the feel that you have with bare hands. This is last on my list. The only reason I bring it up is because both the housing and grips are brand new. So it can't be worn. But again, I'll worry about that later. Time to ride for now. The breakout sucks to adjust that idle cable anyways. You get it how you want it(nice and tight in every direction) and turn the wheel to the right and it sticks. You have to have that cable way too loose to make it right. I think it was bad routing on that thing from factory. I think they changed in in 2014. But it works fine. It just bugs me that it worked the way I like it before. No play and nice and tight. Hoping the new cable solve this one. Then I'm done. These are the only two problems I have. Everything else is perfect. I got two years and ten thousand miles out of it with not one thing wrong. Guess it's time for little things to happen.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,898
Likes: 390
From: NJ
the only two things i can think of is that when you are adjusting the cables you have to check correct "slack"/operation with the handlebars turned to the right. for some reason when you turn to the right some of the slack gets taken up by the maneuver. also check to make sure that stupid screw under the throttle (the big star one that some guys use as a throttle lock) is loose...
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 111
Likes: 2
From: MA
******UPDATE*******
Back from Laconia. Didn't get as mush riding in as I hoped. It rained on Sunday so I was only able to do around 600 miles. Sound is still there. Not getting better and not getting worse. My Harley guy said give it a thousand miles so I am still waiting a while before trying something else. I think i'm going to play with my belt alignment next. I think I have it perfect but maybe I'm a little off. I know I'm within the allowed margin but maybe this thing needs to be dead nuts. Sucks!!!!! It looks so nice. I had people following my every move up there. They would say to me "Was this bike at so and so yesterday". Everyone loves the look. I would hate to have to take that CVO sprocket off. It makes the rims. But I can't live with that noise forever. I will keep you guys posted. It's getting cams and gear drive soon, so I might have him take a peak and see what he comes up with. My tuner guy is awesome and if anyone can figure it out it will be him.
Back from Laconia. Didn't get as mush riding in as I hoped. It rained on Sunday so I was only able to do around 600 miles. Sound is still there. Not getting better and not getting worse. My Harley guy said give it a thousand miles so I am still waiting a while before trying something else. I think i'm going to play with my belt alignment next. I think I have it perfect but maybe I'm a little off. I know I'm within the allowed margin but maybe this thing needs to be dead nuts. Sucks!!!!! It looks so nice. I had people following my every move up there. They would say to me "Was this bike at so and so yesterday". Everyone loves the look. I would hate to have to take that CVO sprocket off. It makes the rims. But I can't live with that noise forever. I will keep you guys posted. It's getting cams and gear drive soon, so I might have him take a peak and see what he comes up with. My tuner guy is awesome and if anyone can figure it out it will be him.
Stage I
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Moscow
Hi,
we've recently had brand new Breakout CVO for the first maintenance in our workshop. He had the same problem as yours. We haven't found any reason for making that noise, but it wasn't a belt. It seemed like bearings. However at first we thought of misaligned wheel therefore belt was at the very left side of the pulley.
What we did: we aligned the wheel first (did not bother with belt tension at this point). Made marks on pitch bolts and swingarm when the wheel was parallel to the swingarm axle. Then we made the belt tension adjustment, adjusting each side equally. It did not help. The sound was still there. We took off the rear wheel and lubricated every touching parts: collar, abs sensor, axle, bearings, chrome spacer with a graphite lube. Assembled the wheel, checked alignment and belt tension. The sound is gone. We tighten the axle with the rear wheel on the ground to prevent the axle going off the place over the torque.
we still have no idea what it was. The bike was brand new CVO without anyone put hands on it. It was stored for almost a year, before the owner decided to ride.
I don't know also for how long the wheel would be silent. Owner phoned us in a while saying everything was Ok.
I just thought it might be of help.
ILIA
we've recently had brand new Breakout CVO for the first maintenance in our workshop. He had the same problem as yours. We haven't found any reason for making that noise, but it wasn't a belt. It seemed like bearings. However at first we thought of misaligned wheel therefore belt was at the very left side of the pulley.
What we did: we aligned the wheel first (did not bother with belt tension at this point). Made marks on pitch bolts and swingarm when the wheel was parallel to the swingarm axle. Then we made the belt tension adjustment, adjusting each side equally. It did not help. The sound was still there. We took off the rear wheel and lubricated every touching parts: collar, abs sensor, axle, bearings, chrome spacer with a graphite lube. Assembled the wheel, checked alignment and belt tension. The sound is gone. We tighten the axle with the rear wheel on the ground to prevent the axle going off the place over the torque.
we still have no idea what it was. The bike was brand new CVO without anyone put hands on it. It was stored for almost a year, before the owner decided to ride.
I don't know also for how long the wheel would be silent. Owner phoned us in a while saying everything was Ok.
I just thought it might be of help.
ILIA
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,109
Likes: 9
From: Connecticut
Maybe try just a little graphite powder on the belt edges, sometimes the belt will do that when a pulley is swapped. Don't use a lot just very little, if the noise is gone then you will know
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 111
Likes: 2
From: MA
Hi,
we've recently had brand new Breakout CVO for the first maintenance in our workshop. He had the same problem as yours. We haven't found any reason for making that noise, but it wasn't a belt. It seemed like bearings. However at first we thought of misaligned wheel therefore belt was at the very left side of the pulley.
What we did: we aligned the wheel first (did not bother with belt tension at this point). Made marks on pitch bolts and swingarm when the wheel was parallel to the swingarm axle. Then we made the belt tension adjustment, adjusting each side equally. It did not help. The sound was still there. We took off the rear wheel and lubricated every touching parts: collar, abs sensor, axle, bearings, chrome spacer with a graphite lube. Assembled the wheel, checked alignment and belt tension. The sound is gone. We tighten the axle with the rear wheel on the ground to prevent the axle going off the place over the torque.
we still have no idea what it was. The bike was brand new CVO without anyone put hands on it. It was stored for almost a year, before the owner decided to ride.
I don't know also for how long the wheel would be silent. Owner phoned us in a while saying everything was Ok.
I just thought it might be of help.
ILIA
we've recently had brand new Breakout CVO for the first maintenance in our workshop. He had the same problem as yours. We haven't found any reason for making that noise, but it wasn't a belt. It seemed like bearings. However at first we thought of misaligned wheel therefore belt was at the very left side of the pulley.
What we did: we aligned the wheel first (did not bother with belt tension at this point). Made marks on pitch bolts and swingarm when the wheel was parallel to the swingarm axle. Then we made the belt tension adjustment, adjusting each side equally. It did not help. The sound was still there. We took off the rear wheel and lubricated every touching parts: collar, abs sensor, axle, bearings, chrome spacer with a graphite lube. Assembled the wheel, checked alignment and belt tension. The sound is gone. We tighten the axle with the rear wheel on the ground to prevent the axle going off the place over the torque.
we still have no idea what it was. The bike was brand new CVO without anyone put hands on it. It was stored for almost a year, before the owner decided to ride.
I don't know also for how long the wheel would be silent. Owner phoned us in a while saying everything was Ok.
I just thought it might be of help.
ILIA
Thanks for this ILIA. You give me hope still. I did this already but not everything. I do remember one of the first million times having the wheel off I lubed a few things putting it back on. But not every single thing. And still the only thing that doesn't make sense is why does my old sprocket not cause the sound(when on the CVO Rim). But at this point anything is possible because this does not make sense. So I will try it and thanks again for hope. I appreciate it.
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 111
Likes: 2
From: MA
I was wondering if there was anything I could put on the belt? I couldn't find a thing saying it was ok to do. What is graphite powder? can I get at automotive stores? I will look today.
thanks
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 50
From: Louisville, KY
http://www.lowes.com/pd_34006-37672-703185_0__
Bicycle shops also sell dry lube - The Tri-Flow is very good.
http://www.artscyclery.com/Tri-Flow_...age-00682.html
Last edited by 1004ron; Jun 27, 2015 at 12:10 PM.