Cam project
Starting my cam project on my 2014 Fattie.....Woods 555 cams, new bearings. pushrods, lifters. Haven't ever done this before but I am mechanically inclined and always wrench on my own bike. Decided to take it at a slower pace and not rush which is my typical 100 mph gung ho attitude. Tonight I got the exhaust off along with the air cleaner. The worst part tonight was getting to the O2 sensor plugs which wasn't hard...just a PIA.... Popped off the top of the push rod clips. Tomorrow night I plan on cutting out the pushrods and pulling out the cams.
Good luck with the upgrades. I remember the first time I took a set of bolt cutters to pushrods on my bike (older Evo some time ago). Sort of harrowing, knowing now you're at the point of no going back 
I assume you have a tuning product or will be going to a dyno afterwards? Will need to adjust fuel and timing tables for the new cam.

I assume you have a tuning product or will be going to a dyno afterwards? Will need to adjust fuel and timing tables for the new cam.
got the pushrods cut out...no problem but kind of strange to do the first time. Got the cam plate out with no issues but more oil came oout than I had seen in any videos I had watched. made a little mess but for me it's expected..lol. Next will be bearing swap and cam swap in the cam plate. I keep running everything thru my mind as far as lining up the dots on the cams and the dots on the cam gear and the crank gear. From what I see as long as you line the 2 cam dots up then the cams are "timed " together. Then when putting the 2 gears and chain back on as long as you line those 2 dots up then the cams are timed to the crank..so to speak. Correct?
yes pretty much - line up those dots and - very important- check your cam end play and gear alignment, it has to be correct.
Put the correct thickness cam spacer on the front cam- you should not have less than .008 or more than .010 end play on the front cam. Shim the back cam with the correct thickness washer to align the gears as shown in the HD service manual and good to go.
The rear washer thickness must be selected to align the cam sprocket with the crank sprocket, so the chain runs true. HD sells spacers in thicknesses of .005 if I recall correctly. no worry about end play on the back cam since that is set by the cam journals.
Put the correct thickness cam spacer on the front cam- you should not have less than .008 or more than .010 end play on the front cam. Shim the back cam with the correct thickness washer to align the gears as shown in the HD service manual and good to go.
The rear washer thickness must be selected to align the cam sprocket with the crank sprocket, so the chain runs true. HD sells spacers in thicknesses of .005 if I recall correctly. no worry about end play on the back cam since that is set by the cam journals.
this is a very good video on cam installation from JP Cycle. skip to 15 mins in and watch from there. follow it exactly and you'll come out right. using assembly lube is very important so be sure you have some of that.
this is a very good video on cam installation from JP Cycle. skip to 15 mins in and watch from there. follow it exactly and you'll come out right. using assembly lube is very important so be sure you have some of that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5KvamRqCis
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5KvamRqCis
LOL- yeh, there are only so many good vids on youtube right? anyway hope it all turns out good.
Trending Topics
quick question...my Georges Garage bearing install tool says to use "a small amount of pressing lube" when installing bearings? same as assembly lube? didn't think you want to use anything as such when pressing in bearings...
Starting my cam project on my 2014 Fattie.....Woods 555 cams, new bearings. pushrods, lifters. Haven't ever done this before but I am mechanically inclined and always wrench on my own bike. Decided to take it at a slower pace and not rush which is my typical 100 mph gung ho attitude. Tonight I got the exhaust off along with the air cleaner. The worst part tonight was getting to the O2 sensor plugs which wasn't hard...just a PIA.... Popped off the top of the push rod clips. Tomorrow night I plan on cutting out the pushrods and pulling out the cams.
Good luck with the upgrades. I remember the first time I took a set of bolt cutters to pushrods on my bike (older Evo some time ago). Sort of harrowing, knowing now you're at the point of no going back 
I assume you have a tuning product or will be going to a dyno afterwards? Will need to adjust fuel and timing tables for the new cam.

I assume you have a tuning product or will be going to a dyno afterwards? Will need to adjust fuel and timing tables for the new cam.
yep same as assembly lube- it's ok to use a bit - some mechs do and some don't. assembly lube breaks down anyway so its not like grease. figure oil is going to seep in there between the case and outside of bearing so it will never be "lube free", but it is not going anywhere.



