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I beg your pardon if I played a bit with this spoiler but sometimes ideas come as you dare a bit
This "hyper-vented" shouldn't be easy to do but with a black grid behind the slots should be really nice looking and would complement very well the the "V" shape of the spoiler...
Last edited by Nostradamus74; Jun 21, 2016 at 07:45 AM.
I beg your pardon if I played a bit with this spoiler but sometimes ideas come as you dare a bit
This "hyper-vented" shouldn't be easy to do but with a black grid behind the slots should be really nice looking and would complement very well the the "V" shape of the spoiler...
I beg your pardon if I played a bit with this spoiler but sometimes ideas come as you dare a bit
This "hyper-vented" shouldn't be easy to do but with a black grid behind the slots should be really nice looking and would complement very well the the "V" shape of the spoiler...
Ohhhh....how sweet! Those slots actually form the shape of a heart
Ohhhh....how sweet! Those slots actually form the shape of a heart
Is well known in HD world and among the "slotmaniacs" that everybody can see whatever he likes in slots and psychologists have been studying this phenomenon for decades to determine your characteristics…
Since you see a heart shaped silhouette instead of a butterfly or the symbol of Optimus Prime you’re obviously a sweetheart!
Still playing with spoiler vent options (I do like Nostradamus' option "a")...I'm thinking since "I" have to cut those slots, that simpler might be better..LOL. I re-worked my 5 slot design, this time with slightly wider slots (and gaps between) for a little more cooling... I've been trying to find out the best tool to use to cut the "slots"?? Don't want to crack the gel coat...suggestions???.....
Hit a little snag today installing the front wheel, the stock size spacers are to big for the new hub width, I was told they might need to be turned down a bit, and sure enough, both need just a little taken off. I dropped them off to get cut down today and will have them back tomorrow....also I decided to order the full 180 degree wrap front fender from Bitchin Seats ...so I'm not gonna bother fabricating a new mount for the stock fender, it was going to be a little complicated and I hope to have the new fender before too long, so I'll run it without one until then....
Here's the wider slot design...
Last edited by Rocker B; Jun 22, 2016 at 02:28 AM.
Still playing with spoiler vent options (I do like Nostradamus' option "a")...I'm thinking since "I" have to cut those slots, that simpler might be better..LOL. I re-worked my 5 slot design, this time with slightly wider slots (and gaps between) for a little more cooling... I've been trying to find out the best tool to use to cut the "slots"?? Don't want to crack the gel coat...suggestions???.....
Hit a little snag today installing the front wheel, the stock size spacers are to big for the new hub width, I was told they might need to be turned down a bit, and sure enough, both need just a little taken off. I dropped them off to get cut down today and will have them back tomorrow....also I decided to order the full 180 degree wrap front fender from Bitchin Seats ...so I'm not gonna bother fabricating a new mount for the stock fender, it was going to be a little complicated and I hope to have the new fender before too long, so I'll run it without one until then....
Here's the wider slot design...
At least it's a quick turnaround for the spacers, hopefully the chrome doesn't start to peel afterwards. I like that wider design bud, and it should make it easier to cut as well. Me personally I'd cut it with either a Drexel or my high speed air saw, or cutting disk. For straighter lines since the piece is curved, I'd probably use the disks initially, then clean it up with milling bits and sanders. And you might need to seal the cuts with resin prior to paint, depending on how well they impregnated the glass initially. You gunna use some sort of screen/mesh to keep debris out?
I'd cover the entire front with painters tape, then draw the slots on the tape and cut with a razor blade. From that I'd use a Dremel and freehand the cuts. You can also just draw the slots and cut to the line.
I did a similar project to a guitar that I wanted to modify.
Here is where it was all taped up and I had drawn my line. I used a drill bit to make a starting hole and used a small router to cut the sound hole I wanted to make.
I used a small Bosch router but with the high speed rotation it was easy to free hand the cut.
After the router I sanded the edges to make sure they were perfectly straight so I could glue on the binding later. This is the finished project. I cut two additional cat eye sound holes as well as an extra pickup as I want the guitar to be a three pickup model.
I'm not trying to derail the thread, just illustrating how I'd do it.
At least it's a quick turnaround for the spacers, hopefully the chrome doesn't start to peel afterwards. I like that wider design bud, and it should make it easier to cut as well. Me personally I'd cut it with either a Drexel or my high speed air saw, or cutting disk. For straighter lines since the piece is curved, I'd probably use the disks initially, then clean it up with milling bits and sanders. And you might need to seal the cuts with resin prior to paint, depending on how well they impregnated the glass initially. You gunna use some sort of screen/mesh to keep debris out?
Ya skid, I might have to get the spacers re-chromed...Good tips for cutting the vents, thanks!!....and yes, I'm thinking a stainless or black mesh would look nice, probably try them both and see which one I like more....
Originally Posted by Sarah93003
I'm not trying to derail the thread, just illustrating how I'd do it.
No derailing here Sarah...That's the info I'm looking for!! The guitar is wood, correct?? I'm thinking the same process could work on fiberglass....Thanks!!
Ya skid, I might have to get the spacers re-chromed...Good tips for cutting the vents, thanks!!....and yes, I'm thinking a stainless or black mesh would look nice, probably try them both and see which one I like more....
No derailing here Sarah...That's the info I'm looking for!! The guitar is wood, correct?? I'm thinking the same process could work on fiberglass....Thanks!!
Yes, the guitar is wood and obviously, I did not want any imperfections.
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...so I'm not gonna bother fabricating a new mount for the stock fender, it was going to be a little complicated and I hope to have the new fender before too long, so I'll run it without one until then.... 
