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FUELPAK 3 vs PC

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Old Jul 22, 2016 | 09:55 PM
  #11  
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Definitely don't go by the performance while in auto tune. It's not a true map until it's flashed to your ecm and then finalized. Been running one on my '14 Lo when it first came out and love it. I found out my local indy will even dyno with it. Might do that for kicks towards end of season just to see how close it is to the good side.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2016 | 10:26 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by RFG
Glad it helped. Hope it fixed your issue. Please post back your results.
Is this always? My bike did that when I was in auto tune mode. I read that is normal but only when running auto tune. As soon as I finalized and loaded it was gone.
Engine's super perky. Just not at that initial throttle phase, or until the rpm's reach above 2500
Below that it cruises well, but it wont start to wind up till it reaches 2500
From a stop, I need to blip the throttle above two grand to keep it from stumbling just like it does during the AT session.
This is happening with the AT feature turned off.
I will state that with the suggested map from V&H, the bike runs well and behaves flawlessly. But with the auto tune map I developed, the bike performes much more agressevly in the mid to upper range.
Might be failing a bit in the low range of the power band.

I read elsewhere that while auto tuning, you should feed throttle slowly and not abruptly.
Not what I did.
I'm guessin the result I developed is much more suited at a race track where higher rpm's need to be maintained for maximum performance. Which is fine with me, but the wife don't ride that way.
Pehaps I should have her run the AT, so that the bike will behave better fir her LOL
 

Last edited by splattttttt; Jul 22, 2016 at 10:30 PM.
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Old Jul 22, 2016 | 10:41 PM
  #13  
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I think you should just do more variances on auto tune and fill in the "football" better. One, may two tanks of fuel, and fast roll ons, slow roll ons, high rpm's , low rpms, etc. It really shouldn't be stumbling like that at the low end. Also it doesn't record just 'cause you did something (ie. slow roll on) one time. It can take several reps of the same to get it recorded and be able to flash it. Hope that makes sense?
 
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Old Jul 22, 2016 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by splattttttt
I will state that with the suggested map from V&H, the bike runs well and behaves flawlessly. But with the auto tune map I developed, the bike performes much more agressevly in the mid to upper range.
Might be failing a bit in the low range of the power band.
Splatttttt, I'm curios what exhaust it has?? My experience with auto tune has been similar. I have FP3's on both my bikes and love them!! With my Breakout, I've run several, extensive, auto tune sessions, but each time have gone back to the base map (with the cams edited in). I have gotten a small improvement at the higher rpm with the a/t maps, but across the board, the base map out performes them. I do have V&H pipes, and from what I've heard the FP3 base maps are usually right on, especially when using their exhaust. I also just put the FP3 on my Rocker C (with V&H pipes) and it also runs great on the base map. I'll still get around to running an a/t session, just to compare, but I'm in no hurry.... don't think it could get much better!!
 

Last edited by Rocker B; Jul 23, 2016 at 12:40 AM.
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Old Jul 23, 2016 | 04:34 AM
  #15  
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Default FUELPAK 3 vs PC

I spent many hours tuning my Bonneville in the past and the FP3 on my Harley is really simple.

Works great with my 16 slim and true duals.
 

Last edited by meashman; Jul 23, 2016 at 05:41 AM.
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Old Jul 23, 2016 | 05:38 AM
  #16  
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Thanks for the input guys.
Certently hope the OP doesn't mind the hijack. But in a way, it is all relative, though not a coparo between the two said tuners.
RockerC, the 883 is eauipped with withe a set of V&H copetition 3" baffle slash down slipons and stock header with. Ross over and a DK outlaw intake
I wished I'd have taken a picture of my completed A/T tables as I planned on to keep for reference.
Really didn't look footbal shaped.
More like a map of the state of Te as LOL
One thing to not here is that I have never seen a Dyno tune being performed before. And what I think one thing that it missing when attempting to populate the grid on the fo3 is the knowledge reauired similar to when a tech is performing a Dynomometer tune.
My applyed sessions realy were not developed in a way that were nowhere near what is recommended by V&H; in that what they really do recommend is to ease on throttle rolls.
Most of my thottle roll on's were achieved onquick snaps and wide opened throttle.
Never did I attempt to ease in to it unless there was a n officer of the law around, or slow moving traffic.
I sted I headed out for know. Locations where I knew I'd have the freedom to open the sucker up.
Not how it's supposed to be done.

At the moment I have managed to index a 1 and a 2 seperate A/T fp3 sessions
I do 't think these two seperate sessions are used in tandem.
I either choose #1 or #2
If I went out and continue to A/T with the fp3 today, it will be like starting a third session. and the tuner will listed seperatly as #3
I don't think you can continue to build on an already applyed session, but I could be wrong.
Still learning but havin fun with it haha
 
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Old Jul 23, 2016 | 05:55 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by ILMFBL
I think you should just do more variances on auto tune and fill in the "football" better. One, may two tanks of fuel, and fast roll ons, slow roll ons, high rpm's , low rpms, etc. It really shouldn't be stumbling like that at the low end. Also it doesn't record just 'cause you did something (ie. slow roll on) one time. It can take several reps of the same to get it recorded and be able to flash it. Hope that makes sense?
I agree with you 100%
I know this doesnt happen quickly as V&H would like you to believe haha
Even a proper Dynomometer sesion can take up to two hours to dial in correctly
And neither one of my two A/T sessions lasted that long. Why my table does not look like a football shape. Maybe more like Frosty the snow man LOL
 
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Old Jul 23, 2016 | 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ib5150
I typically install Power Commander's in my past bikes when performing a Stage 1 and have the bike Dyno'ed but here recently I was talking with the company that Dynoed my last bike (Sportster 48-1200) and they told me of the New Fuelpak 3 from Vance and Hines, he went on to say they are extremely good and save trying to hide the onboard PC .

I understand that the Fuelpak once used has to stay with the bike verses the PC can be removed and reused on another but other than that, has anyone used the Fuelpak 3 and how satisfied are you with it? Also, if anyone has used both the FP3 & PC what are the pro's and cons between the two other than re-usability?
ib5150, I hope you don't mind where your thread ended up.
What you wanted was a comparison between a power commander and the fp3
Looks like the lesson here is biased. Sorry.
I will bow out if you find my input unecessary to your inquiry
 
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Old Jul 24, 2016 | 09:33 AM
  #19  
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No problem splattttttt seems like many are using the FP3 and like it, I do like the fact that it can either be removed or kept on the bike, so I guess I'll give it shot, Thanks for all the feed back, the rest of the conversation I'll probably understand more once I'm using it..
 
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Old Jul 24, 2016 | 12:15 PM
  #20  
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I got one for my wifes sporty since I didn't have to go the pain of draing and lifting tank. Remove air cleaner. LocTe wires and remove stuff that might get lost eventually.
Only draw back with the fp3 is when you sell the bike, it goes with it.
 
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