If your interested in installing a T-max on your 2013 Softail, Read here. The reason I'm posting this is because my V&H fuelpak killed my ECM. I have a 13 Slim with V&H bigshots and SE heavy breather. Bike ran fine for 3 weeks with Fuelpak, then all kinds of weird stuff happened. This install is time consuming and not for the feeble hearted. If you have a passenger peg mounted on your pipe side-remove it. Your brake foot brake pedal will need to be removed, your rear master cylinder will need to be loosened. Have fun getting the clevis pin to come out. Once you have access to the floorboard mounting screws, remove 2 out of 3 and loosen the third. Make sure it's flopping in the wind. Now remove your exhaust. You will need to remove your 12mm O2 sensors with a 9/16. If you do not want to drill holes and weld in 18mm O2 bungs you will need angled O2 adapters 12mm x 18mm. (available from Summit racing-$65.00 for two.) Install the adapters so they are parallel (up) on the pipe. Must be inline up for them to work. Install the TMax 18mm sensors. Loosen the rear exhaust bracket (4-bolts)-do not remove. Re-install your exhaust pipes, but do not tighten your exhaust head bolts yet. Reinstall the rear exhaust bracket, but do not tighten. Tighten your exhaust head bolts. Tighten the rear exhaust bracket. Reinstall the floorboard mounting bolts. Reinstall the rear master cylinder. Reinstall the foot brake. Make sure you used anti-sieze compound on the O2 adapters and the T-Max sensors. Route your O2 sensor wires so they are hidden. These things are 5 times the size as stock. Your now ready to do the computer thing. NOTE-don't freak out when you have smoke coming off your pipes, it's the anti-seize compound you should have applied to your O2 adapters and O2 sensors. Good luck to all, don't screw up your heat-shields like I did.

 

Been working with that situation for the last 7 years or so; and I have to remove my aftermarket pipes every two years and re-install the stock ones for emissions and safety inspection.
I found that just pulling the entire exhaust system off to install/remove the 02 sensors makes life a whole lot easier. That way you can get better leverage on them so they are easier to remove and then re-install with the proper amount of torque. It's best to loosen your heat shields as far as they'll go without the clamp-ends separating. This helps to be able to move them out of the way when they are in danger of being damaged and makes it easier to reposition them later when re-installing. Then, put some masking tape over the points where they are most likely to be marred - for me, that's at the top of each header shield where a wrench is likely to rub while removing/installing the exhaust flange stud nuts; or be damaged by the flange while getting it into position. And also where the footboard bracket may contact the bottom of the front header shield while getting the exhaust into position when installing, or dislodging it while removing. The only other part I remove is the right foot board. Hope this helps...for next time. LOL