stop from bottoming out
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Omaha
It's amazing how many softail owners don't know how to adjust the shocks properly.
I was a member of that group until I finally figured it out.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: East Tn Foot of The Dragon
If you are riding 2 up or on the thick side of the Toledo. The dual shock adjustment is critical. When adjusted correctly you will not bottom out and you can increase cornering clearance. Forget counting turns etc. Loosen the lock nut while holding the shaft with a 9/16" open end wrench. Spray the threads with PB Blaster or WD 40 the night before. Turn the cans all the way forward and then to the rear about 1/4" from full forward. Visually line up the front edge of both cans. Tighten lock nuts while holding wedge cans with a wood block when tightening lock nut and ride it. It will gain you 1/2-3/4" of cornering clearance and will not bottom out. Handling will feel settled. If you are a light weight and solo, it may feel a bit stiff, but well worth the benefit.
Last edited by checkers; Sep 26, 2016 at 09:18 PM.
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Yes, I have a Springer and it doesn't bottom out at all, even when carrying extra weight. Adjust the rear suspension and see it that helps ya, worked for me.
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,070
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From: Los Angeles
If you are riding 2 up or on the thick side of the Toledo. The dual shock adjustment is critical. When adjusted correctly you will not bottom out and you can increase cornering clearance. Forget counting turns etc. Loosen the lock nut while holding the shaft with a 9/16" open end wrench. Spray the threads with PB Blaster or WD 40 the night before. Turn the cans all the way forward and then to the rear about 1/4" from full forward. Visually line up the front edge of both cans. Tighten lock nuts while holding wedge cans with a wood block when tightening lock nut and ride it. It will gain you 1/2-3/4" of cornering clearance and will not bottom out. Handling will feel settled. If you are a light weight and solo, it may feel a bit stiff, but well worth the benefit.
Are you saying to move the shocks as far as you can towards the front of the bike? (what do you mean turn the cans?) and then how far back? Just a few turns each holding with a wood block?
I'm sure you gave me a perfectly good explanation but I'm haveing problems seeing it in my mind, LOL.
Last edited by rquest; Sep 29, 2016 at 01:30 PM.
Ultimate HDF Member
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From: East Tn Foot of The Dragon
rquest, when you get under the bike it will make sense. It's been 4 yrs since I adjusted my Heritage. You likely wont need a spanner wrench. Spray the shaft of both shocks, you will see 2 large lock nuts tightened against each shock, I think they are 1"1/8" open end. Each shaft is notched for a 9/16" open end wrench. Hold the shaft with the 9/16 and loosen the 2 large nuts and screw them all the way to the front of each shaft, then turn the 2 shock "cans" forward against the large nuts making sure the front edges of the shock"cans" are equal at their front edge. You should be able to turn the "cans" forward by hand using a gripper glove. Hold the "cans" with a gripper glove or hold/pry a wood lever gently between cans to hold them while you tighten large nuts against the cans, done.
Last edited by checkers; Sep 29, 2016 at 08:26 PM.