Oil Circulation/Pressure/Temp
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
Thanks for your kind words. Yes, going to do a full rebuild. Ordered a full Cometic gasket kit yesterday. Thanks for the advice on removing the inner primary assembly Dan. As I was pulling the engine I realized I was gonna need a new seal and had been thinking I better get a set for that too. Then I started thinking, if I pull the inner assembly off, should I go ahead and put a new belt on it while I have it that far apart. The belt on it is in fine condition but...
As for the pinion gear stuff, I cleaned and examined that stuff when I got home from work this morning. The only paint code I can find anywhere is the green mark on the shaft itself way in where it comes out of the case. Still waiting for my service manual to arrive so I'll have to see what that charts says when it gets here (thanks for the heads up about not necessarily using the same color- I would have just assumed and possibly bought the wrong one- and those suckers are PRICEY!). From the looks of the original though I think it definitely needs to be replaced. It looks pretty chewed up inside. What do you guys think about head work/disassembly? The bike was running perfect before this so I wasn't thinking about messing with those. Do the valves stretch quite a bit with age? Or is it a 'if they ain't broke don't mess with them' situation? I could borrow a valve compressor from a buddy if you all think I should (I noticed the gasket set comes with new valve seals so probably ought to- just seems like I keep peeling back another layer of onion every day I spend in the shop lol).
As for the pinion gear stuff, I cleaned and examined that stuff when I got home from work this morning. The only paint code I can find anywhere is the green mark on the shaft itself way in where it comes out of the case. Still waiting for my service manual to arrive so I'll have to see what that charts says when it gets here (thanks for the heads up about not necessarily using the same color- I would have just assumed and possibly bought the wrong one- and those suckers are PRICEY!). From the looks of the original though I think it definitely needs to be replaced. It looks pretty chewed up inside. What do you guys think about head work/disassembly? The bike was running perfect before this so I wasn't thinking about messing with those. Do the valves stretch quite a bit with age? Or is it a 'if they ain't broke don't mess with them' situation? I could borrow a valve compressor from a buddy if you all think I should (I noticed the gasket set comes with new valve seals so probably ought to- just seems like I keep peeling back another layer of onion every day I spend in the shop lol).
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 12,740
From: South Carolina
If you are trying to contain the cost, I suggest you leave the heads alone unless the engine was using oil.
Another thing to consider, have a competent Harley experienced machinist true the bottoms of the cylinders, this will go a long way in preventing future base gasket leaks.
Another thing to consider, have a competent Harley experienced machinist true the bottoms of the cylinders, this will go a long way in preventing future base gasket leaks.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
Split the cases today. Glad I did as I found a small piece of the bearing cage in the bottom. I have a question concerning the connecting rod bearings. As I hold the piston rods and spin the crank I notice a small amount of binding every other rotation or so. Is that normal or do you think there is bearing damage? I called my local dealer to see about pressing the crank apart and they said they don't touch them and referred me to another shop in town and they don't mess with them either. Is there something particularly tricky about these cranks? Alignment issues or something?
Most of of my new parts have arrived (except the gasket set). My other question de jour is about the pistons. They look to be in fine condition with a small amount of carbon deposit on top. Since the bike was running great, not smoking, and not using any oil, do you think new rings are sufficient? The cylinder walls don't show any wear but I'm wondering if I should run a hone through them anyway to help with seating rings. Thanks in advance.
Most of of my new parts have arrived (except the gasket set). My other question de jour is about the pistons. They look to be in fine condition with a small amount of carbon deposit on top. Since the bike was running great, not smoking, and not using any oil, do you think new rings are sufficient? The cylinder walls don't show any wear but I'm wondering if I should run a hone through them anyway to help with seating rings. Thanks in advance.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
hey y'all. It's been a little bit but I'm getting my engine back together. Had to have the lower end completely rebuilt due to bad crank pin bearing. I'm putting S&S adjustable pushrods in today. Quick question, the instructions say 4 complete turns after taking out the lash. I'm using new lifters which have no oil in them. Theoretically there shouldn't be any (aside from the lifter spring) resistance while doing the final four turns, correct? I can see that the valve in the lifter is pushed down into the tappet and am assuming it will make a bit of noise as it pressures up when I first get it fired up. All the videos I've watched the mechanic has had to use wrenches to make those adjustments and couldn't turn the pushrod until after bleed-down. I used my fingers for the four turns and am able to turn the pushrod easily afterwards as there really isn't any bleed down when using a new empty valve. Sound right?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,921
Likes: 8,027
From: poway
hey y'all. It's been a little bit but I'm getting my engine back together. Had to have the lower end completely rebuilt due to bad crank pin bearing. I'm putting S&S adjustable pushrods in today. Quick question, the instructions say 4 complete turns after taking out the lash. I'm using new lifters which have no oil in them. Theoretically there shouldn't be any (aside from the lifter spring) resistance while doing the final four turns, correct? I can see that the valve in the lifter is pushed down into the tappet and am assuming it will make a bit of noise as it pressures up when I first get it fired up. All the videos I've watched the mechanic has had to use wrenches to make those adjustments and couldn't turn the pushrod until after bleed-down. I used my fingers for the four turns and am able to turn the pushrod easily afterwards as there really isn't any bleed down when using a new empty valve. Sound right?
New lifters will usually have a light machine oil in them.. That is what I've seen from SnS, Crane, HD and Comp cams. They typically bleed as fast as you can adjust them. If regular motor oil is used like after the top end has been RnRed and the lifter have regular motor oil in them, lifter bleeds a lot slower. Some lifters like Johnson HiLifts may not have any oil..
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