Howl coming from clutch?

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May 20, 2018 | 02:29 PM

#11

rquest

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From: Los Angeles

I still havent figured out exactly what is causing the howl, thought I'd repost and see if anyone was experiencing the same problem.

May 22, 2019 | 02:04 PM

#12

rquest

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From: Los Angeles

Quote:

Originally Posted by rquest

I still havent figured out exactly what is causing the howl, thought I'd repost and see if anyone was experiencing the same problem.

Well another warm/wet winter has passed (for So Cal.) and I'm ready to ride but I'll probably be working on this issue again and am still asking for help. the only thing I may add is it only howls when hot. I'm going to change fluids and adjust the clutch but again, looking for advice. Too tight???

May 22, 2019 | 02:57 PM

#13

LenBoyLo

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From: British Columbia

Best check your inner bearing and race on the output shaft. (behind clutch). Get ready to spend money. That race wears and you'll very likely need to replace bearing and race at a minimum.

Last edited by LenBoyLo; May 22, 2019 at 02:58 PM. Reason: spelling

Jun 23, 2019 | 05:04 PM

#14

rquest

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From: Los Angeles

Quote:

Originally Posted by LenBoyLo

Best check your inner bearing and race on the output shaft. (behind clutch). Get ready to spend money. That race wears and you'll very likely need to replace bearing and race at a minimum.

I know this is an old post but I still havent done anything about this. Can anyone tell me if this inner bearing and race on the output shaft can be changed without taking the engine out and splitting it? Or can it be done while bike is on a lift? Thanks in advance.

Jun 28, 2019 | 12:18 AM

#15

LenBoyLo

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From: British Columbia

Most definitely you don't have to remove the engine. Just the primary cover, compensator and clutch behind the cover, the final drive sprocket and then remove the inner primary cover which holds the bearing that rides on the race. I strongly suggest you get a hold of a service manual and the specialty tools you are going to need to pull the race and press it back on plus the final drive sprocket locking tool. All work can be performed on a lift. Depending on the mileage of your bike you may want to consider upgrading the compensator (Screaming Eagle or Baker) Plus now would be the time to upgrade your clutch discs to Screaming Eagle with a Screaming Eagle pressure plate. Perhaps it's time to change your drive belt and sprockets if signs of wear are apparent. Again, service manual tells you what to look for in these regards. Best of luck. I trust you know your mechanical capabilities and limits.

Jun 28, 2019 | 12:51 AM

#16

S.D.M.F

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From: Australia

Have you even bothered to check the chain tension yet?
Asking how to repair what is unknown ....... is guessing.
If you're not going to investigate yourself, take it to a mechanic.

Last edited by S.D.M.F; Jun 28, 2019 at 12:54 AM.

Jun 28, 2019 | 07:14 AM

#17

Dan89FLSTC

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From: South Carolina

Let`s clarify this a bit, for anyone reading this post that is unfamiliar with the Inner Primary Bearing...

The inner race is on the Mainshaft of the transmission, the outer race and rollers are in the inner primary cover.

To diagnose a failed Inner Primary Bearing:

With engine running, transmission in neutral you will hear the noise.

Put transmission into gear, the noise will stop.

Jul 5, 2019 | 04:31 PM

#18

rquest

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From: Los Angeles

All right, you're going to be proud of me. After a year of sitting in my garage I finally decided to take the primary cover off because of the howling sound. Everything looks good except the chain may be a little tight. I've read up on these (aft 07 non-adjusting) and even though they are supposed to be non-adjusting can cause problems? Anyone know how to adjust an non adjusting primary chain? Any other suggestions? The bike has less than 10k miles and I just don't see how the bearings could be bad but I could use some advice in other area's.