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So I tested the fuel pressure at a shop although could not replicate the problem and the pressure is good every start.
I purchased that spark tester and used it after filling up. The issue presented itself and the tester showed no spark while cranking, or only one spark per five or six revolutions. When the engine started I could see the spark was perfect and the bike ran as it should.
I have no idea why it only does it while hot though. With new battery, new coil, new and plugs and wires. Grounds are tight. Battery tests are good. Could it be the voltage regulator? I wonder if I should change out the battery cables. Maybe the ground cable is worn.
With all the descriptions you have stated and what you have replaced to no success - I would, even though I usually don't say - It is really looking like an ECM or whatever HD calls the main engine control module/unit.
Last - WITH ALL GROUNDS CHECKED AND REMOVED AND CLEANED......=ECM.
With all the descriptions you have stated and what you have replaced to no success - I would, even though I usually don't say - It is really looking like an ECM or whatever HD calls the main engine control module/unit.
Last - WITH ALL GROUNDS CHECKED AND REMOVED AND CLEANED......=ECM.
Your last check shows spark issues when it's acting up.....
I believe you've already replaced the CKP sensor and the relays... along with the coil, plugs, and plug wires....
If all grounds are good (tight & clean), time to look at the ECM....
Note: I believe you've already checked the ECM connector for bent/corroded pins... right?
I just checked the ECM and everything looks good. No corrosion or bent pins. Cleaned pins with contact cleaner. The grounds are clean and tight. I'm just hoping it's something more simple, as an ECM is pricey and there is no guarantee it will fix the issue. I'll go over it all again. Could a dickie relay cause this to happen? They are new.
I just checked the ECM and everything looks good. No corrosion or bent pins. Cleaned pins with contact cleaner. The grounds are clean and tight. I'm just hoping it's something more simple, as an ECM is pricey and there is no guarantee it will fix the issue. I'll go over it all again. Could a dickie relay cause this to happen? They are new.
At this point, I wouldn't replace anything else without first checking the part to make sure it's failed or failing.
I certainly wouldn't replace the ECM without first checking it out, and finding it to be the problem. I know it can be done, just don't have the procedure to share..
As far as the ECM, I would find the pins that service the DKP Sensor and check them for continuity.. I would also check the wiring to the coil..
With all you've done, and if all the new parts are working/installed properly, it sounds like the ECM, or bad wire in the harness between the ECM and a sensor or coil...
I'd sit down and make a list of all the things that could affect the spark, and then check the wires between them and the ECM...
There have been reports where wires like a ground wire, looked good, and clean, but were found to have the copper strands under the insulation that were broken, causing a reduction in current flow and electrical issues... That can be noticed when a wire is unusually pliable, compared to similar gauge wires..
About relays, I know older relays can can have some intermittent issues due to dirty contacts... but I believe a new one should either work or just be a bad part... You could check the relay contacts in the fuse panel for corrosion, etc..
It seems the problem is an intermittent electrical issue, based on the intermittent spark you got when you did the spark check... An intermittent electrical problem takes time, a systematic approach, and perseverance.... They can be a major pain (that's why I hate them)...
At some point, like trying to proof read your own work, you may need to get a fresh set of eyes on the problem... If there is a well respected Indy shop in your area, might be worth it to have them look it over...
Will keep you posted. Thank you guys for your help. It's very much appreciated. I'm looking forward to winding up this thread with a big SOLVED! In the title.
I have run into electrical problems on the back side of the connectors having either a pin pulled out of the socket and have seen bad termination of the pin crimped to the wire. Worth a look.
Agree with Mr. Hatitude on the approach and go forward. I hope you find something that is the "Ah, Ha !" moment.
The problem with mine was the MAP sensor had a pulled wire. It's an 06 dyna wide glide. This particular wire was real tight, routing around the frame tube. Over time, it just got weak and when the tech pulled the sensor out to replace the tensioner, it came to loose to work. The guy had a helluva time diagnosing it.
Maybe give this a try, my 05 night train was giving me starting issues for a year and a half, changed all the sensors ( or so I thought), plugs, wires, coil, would take me anywhere, but also strand me there, finally took it to the stealer, it took 3 mechanics 6 hours to figure it out, turns out it was a bad speed sensor in the transmission ($77 part but cost me a total of $697 at the stealer, but at least they lubed my cables!)
To my surprise and theirs the speed sensor doesn’t throw any codes and usually when they go bad your bike will stall at stop signs and red lights but start right back up, the speed sensor was sending bad signals to the ecm when it got hot, therefore when trying to re-start would be sending either too much fuel or not enough
Hope this helps you out, throttleout is back in the wind!
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