Push rod / lifter question
2006 stock Deluxe w 12k miles. Replacing tensioners, so am going to install SE adjustable rods.
Question is: do I need to pull the lifters and pump them and then adjust the rods to zero lash? I would not anticipate much lifter wear at 12k and would prefer not to remove tappet blocks unless it's the proper way to do the install.
Question is: do I need to pull the lifters and pump them and then adjust the rods to zero lash? I would not anticipate much lifter wear at 12k and would prefer not to remove tappet blocks unless it's the proper way to do the install.
2006 stock Deluxe w 12k miles. Replacing tensioners, so am going to install SE adjustable rods.
Question is:
do I need to pull the lifters and pump them and then adjust the rods to zero lash?
I would not anticipate much lifter wear at 12k and would prefer not to remove tappet blocks unless it's the proper way to do the install.
Question is:
do I need to pull the lifters and pump them and then adjust the rods to zero lash?
I would not anticipate much lifter wear at 12k and would prefer not to remove tappet blocks unless it's the proper way to do the install.
You have the "B" lifters (which are the good HD lifters) so at 12K miles, they should give many more miles of service.... no need to change them.
You need to remove the old pushrods.. two ways... 1) cut them 2) take them out through the rockers. I always go through the rockers. It's just not that hard to me
You do not need to remove the tappet blocks, or the lifters.
You will have to raise the lifters to remove the cam plate. There are several ways to accomplish that.
I use small magnets with hooks on them. After removing pushrods & tubes, I place one magnet on top of each lifter. Then I use a rubber band (I connect it to a bolt in the rocker cover) to raise them up to the top of the tappet covers. That gets them out of the way to remove and reinstall the cam plate.
You can see the rubber bands holding up the lifters in this pic. They are multi-colored because I had to double them up, they were too short..

Additionally, you can drop the lifters down into the cam chest after the cam plate is removed, if you want to inspect them, or whatever.... Just don't forget to put them back in BEFORE you reinstall the cam plate...
I have done work in the cam chest and left the lifters hanging for several days. I never pulled them out or did any prep work to them before installing adjustable pushrods. When you find zero lash, you will just make contact with lifter. There is a spring holding it up, no need for the oil pressure to back that up....
There are also special magnets you can buy, and many other homemade remedies like mine, that allow you avoid removing the tappet blocks.
Good luck with your mod...
Last edited by hattitude; Dec 7, 2022 at 09:29 PM.
The tool (magnets) is a cheap investment.. you can get them here.
As for Adjustable pushrods you will also need new pushrod tubes. The OEM's will not allow you to get to the adjuster nuts.
As hattitude said, cut the old pushrods out and install the new.. Don't need to do anything with the lifters..
Although if it was me, I would be upgrading the cam bearings they're known to cause serious motor grenading.. Not saying it's gonna happen but the OEM's suck compared to the Torrington full compliment bearing..
Also at this time it would be a good time to upgrade the cam w/lifters.. I don't do cams without replacing lifters.. You can if you want but I don't..
As for Adjustable pushrods you will also need new pushrod tubes. The OEM's will not allow you to get to the adjuster nuts.
As hattitude said, cut the old pushrods out and install the new.. Don't need to do anything with the lifters..
Although if it was me, I would be upgrading the cam bearings they're known to cause serious motor grenading.. Not saying it's gonna happen but the OEM's suck compared to the Torrington full compliment bearing..
Also at this time it would be a good time to upgrade the cam w/lifters.. I don't do cams without replacing lifters.. You can if you want but I don't..
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