2003 Heritage Fluid Change - A few Questions
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 111
Likes: 62
From: Jax, FL
2003 Heritage Fluid Change - A few Questions
Hi folks,
I just bought fluids, o-rings, gaskets, for a "three-hole" oil change on my 2003 Heritage Softail Classic. I have a couple questions. One video says I have a dry-sump oil system. I'm not sure what that means or if has any effect on the oil change technique. Am I NOT draining the oil from the bottom of the crankcase?
Second, how do you drain the transmission without getting oil all over the shocks? Is that just the nature of the beast?
Also, the video showed a standard 5/8" hex nut for the primary oil drain. Mine has something different I think. It looks like a (very) small torx nut. Is that right? My manual says to tighten it until the plug projects a certain amount. What's that al about?
Thanks,
I just bought fluids, o-rings, gaskets, for a "three-hole" oil change on my 2003 Heritage Softail Classic. I have a couple questions. One video says I have a dry-sump oil system. I'm not sure what that means or if has any effect on the oil change technique. Am I NOT draining the oil from the bottom of the crankcase?
Second, how do you drain the transmission without getting oil all over the shocks? Is that just the nature of the beast?
Also, the video showed a standard 5/8" hex nut for the primary oil drain. Mine has something different I think. It looks like a (very) small torx nut. Is that right? My manual says to tighten it until the plug projects a certain amount. What's that al about?
Thanks,
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 2,057
Likes: 1,490
From: Black Hills of SD
5/8" socket & extension for the Engine & the Transmission. On my 2002 - The Primary is a small hex "Allen" pipe plug. Yes, the manual has a specified amount the head is supposed to be at when tight, but if it has been tightened beyond that before it may go in further than the spec. A little sealant [ Loctite 593 teflon thread sealant is what I use ] on the threads and tighten, but do not over-tighten.
As far as the oil getting on the shocks- You can try and fabricate a funnel or just clean them up after the drain. Using the socket and extension you really do not get that much on the shocks that it is an issue.
Pretty easy job actually. Set the bike up straight and secure and go for it.
As far as the oil getting on the shocks- You can try and fabricate a funnel or just clean them up after the drain. Using the socket and extension you really do not get that much on the shocks that it is an issue.
Pretty easy job actually. Set the bike up straight and secure and go for it.
Last edited by MarlinSpike; Jul 10, 2023 at 07:38 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,121
Likes: 358
From: Illinois
You should get a service manual for your bike. I have a 2005 Heritage. Do NOT remove the plug from the bottom of the motor. The engine oil drain plug is in the frame. Follow the line from the oil tank down to the frame on the right side. You're only going to get oil out of the oil tank and filter when removed. I put the bike on a jack and really don't get much oil on the shocks when draining the transmission. The primary drain plug on mine is a 3/16th hex and gets torqued to 36-60 inch pounds.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 18,464
Likes: 3,723
From: backwoods
Hi folks,
I just bought fluids, o-rings, gaskets, for a "three-hole" oil change on my 2003 Heritage Softail Classic. I have a couple questions. One video says I have a dry-sump oil system. I'm not sure what that means or if has any effect on the oil change technique. Am I NOT draining the oil from the bottom of the crankcase?
Thanks,
I just bought fluids, o-rings, gaskets, for a "three-hole" oil change on my 2003 Heritage Softail Classic. I have a couple questions. One video says I have a dry-sump oil system. I'm not sure what that means or if has any effect on the oil change technique. Am I NOT draining the oil from the bottom of the crankcase?
Thanks,
Do you have a manual?? I don't remember how much detail it has on this.
Dry sumps have the oil tank in a different location, and wet sumps have a deeper crankcase for the oil, which is a crude explanation of wet vs dry sump. You can google.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 111
Likes: 62
From: Jax, FL
I have a manual, but I also find that the smart guys on the internet have figure out better ways to do things, and sometimes have better and clearer explanations.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,872
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From: DeLand, Florida
Just run the engine to be sure all of your oil is in the tank before draining. After changing oil filter, draining oil tank and installing plug, put 3 quarts in oil tank, start engine to warm it up and then add oil to bring it up to half way between “add and full”. Been doing it that way on my 2000 since new. Enjoy
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 2,057
Likes: 1,490
From: Black Hills of SD
Good points - Make sure you are up to operating temp. Also, the oil filter, if really super tight, takes a cup tool for removing. To get the filter off the crank position sensor is right in the way. So you either have to modify a cup tool or buy one designed to get the filter to turn without hitting the sensor - Or, remove the sensor, which gives you an opportunity to check it and wipe off.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 111
Likes: 62
From: Jax, FL
Good points - Make sure you are up to operating temp. Also, the oil filter, if really super tight, takes a cup tool for removing. To get the filter off the crank position sensor is right in the way. So you either have to modify a cup tool or buy one designed to get the filter to turn without hitting the sensor - Or, remove the sensor, which gives you an opportunity to check it and wipe off.