06' softail with a electrical gremlin
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1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
06' softail with a electrical gremlin
my wife's 06 softail delux sat forever and ended up needing a new fuel pump. Fuel pump was changed out and i ended up having to replace the ground wire in the tank also. I ran the bike in the garage , killed it and left the ignition switch on with the bike on the trickle charger. Next morning it was dead, I turned the bike off charged it for a few hours and the bike started. So i went for a run around the block to check things out and I noticed that spedo wasn't working, the odometer was off and the key light was on. I was able to run it at 30 mph and it was fine for about 1/2 mile then it started to sputter just as I was getting into the garage. Tried it with the key fob next to the bike and it would start and idle but still a dead odo, and the key fob light on, and yes I changed the key fob battery. When I try to push the trip button and turn the bike on it just shows the miles and doesn't go to the code page.....
Any ideas where I need to start working on next?
Any ideas where I need to start working on next?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,068
Likes: 11,086
From: San Diego, CA
I start all electrical problems at the battery. A weak 12V supply and/or loose, dirty, and/or corroded connections can cause all sorts of electrical glitches....
Do a proper load test on the battery, make sure it's good. It not only has to hold voltage, but it needs to supply enough current... thus the load test.
Then I'll move on to the battery cables. Make sure all connections are clean and tight on both cables, both ends. Make sure the ground, where it attaches to the frame, forward of the seat, is good, clean , and tight. That is known to get loose and cause issues.
Once I ensure the 12V system is up to spec, then I start my diagnosis looking for other things.
If you find an issue with the 12V system that you correct, then it may be possible to check for codes...
Other than codes to help point you in the right direction, here are two quick suggestions;
I'm not sure what you are talking about when you say "i ended up having to replace the ground wire in the tank also."....? Inside the tank their are two wires to the fuel pump and two wires to the fuel level sending unit. Which wire was replaced, why, and how? In nay case this repair might need to be checked..
Additionally, double check the connector on the top plate outside the tank. Often those pins can be bent while reattaching that connector, causing a bad or intermittent connection.
That should help to get you started.
Others will also chime in with their ideas and experiences.
Just remember, when it comes to an electrical issue... be systematic, be thorough, and be persistent..
Good luck and keep us posted...
Do a proper load test on the battery, make sure it's good. It not only has to hold voltage, but it needs to supply enough current... thus the load test.
Then I'll move on to the battery cables. Make sure all connections are clean and tight on both cables, both ends. Make sure the ground, where it attaches to the frame, forward of the seat, is good, clean , and tight. That is known to get loose and cause issues.
Once I ensure the 12V system is up to spec, then I start my diagnosis looking for other things.
If you find an issue with the 12V system that you correct, then it may be possible to check for codes...
Other than codes to help point you in the right direction, here are two quick suggestions;
I'm not sure what you are talking about when you say "i ended up having to replace the ground wire in the tank also."....? Inside the tank their are two wires to the fuel pump and two wires to the fuel level sending unit. Which wire was replaced, why, and how? In nay case this repair might need to be checked..
Additionally, double check the connector on the top plate outside the tank. Often those pins can be bent while reattaching that connector, causing a bad or intermittent connection.
That should help to get you started.
Others will also chime in with their ideas and experiences.
Just remember, when it comes to an electrical issue... be systematic, be thorough, and be persistent..
Good luck and keep us posted...
Last edited by hattitude; Mar 7, 2025 at 10:31 PM.
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
I start all electrical problems at the battery. A weak 12V supply and/or loose, dirty, and/or corroded connections can cause all sorts of electrical glitches....
Do a proper load test on the battery, make sure it's good. It not only has to hold voltage, but it needs to supply enough current... thus the load test. Ive got the battery of the bike, It have been holding a charge and starts the bike up with no issues, The battery is out of the bike and on a trickle charger for the weekend, Im working out of town and when I'm back Ill do a load test on it.
Then I'll move on to the battery cables. Make sure all connections are clean and tight on both cables, both ends. Make sure the ground, where it attaches to the frame, forward of the seat, is good, clean , and tight. That is known to get loose and cause issues. Battery cables are in good condition and clean, I live in the desert so there is verry little corrosion out here
Once I ensure the 12V system is up to spec, then I start my diagnosis looking for other things.
If you find an issue with the 12V system that you correct, then it may be possible to check for codes... I cant check for codes, Ive tried and when I push the trip button and turn the bike on it only reads the miles on the bike, it will not show the codes anymore. I was able to read them before I let the battery drain, since then I cant get them
Other than codes to help point you in the right direction, here are two quick suggestions;
I'm not sure what you are talking about when you say "i ended up having to replace the ground wire in the tank also."....? Inside the tank their are two wires to the fuel pump and two wires to the fuel level sending unit. Which wire was replaced, why, and how? In nay case this repair might need to be checked.. When I installed the new fuel pump It looks like I damages the ground wire causing it to break. It was the ground wire from the fuel pump. It was repaired by soldering a new wire in. there are no more issues with the fuel pump running, I think the bike is dying because the ignition.
Additionally, double check the connector on the top plate outside the tank. Often those pins can be bent while reattaching that connector, causing a bad or intermittent connection. All the pins are in good working order, the bike will start and idle well
Thanks for the feedback
That should help to get you started.
Others will also chime in with their ideas and experiences.
Just remember, when it comes to an electrical issue... be systematic, be thorough, and be persistent..
Good luck and keep us posted...
Do a proper load test on the battery, make sure it's good. It not only has to hold voltage, but it needs to supply enough current... thus the load test. Ive got the battery of the bike, It have been holding a charge and starts the bike up with no issues, The battery is out of the bike and on a trickle charger for the weekend, Im working out of town and when I'm back Ill do a load test on it.
Then I'll move on to the battery cables. Make sure all connections are clean and tight on both cables, both ends. Make sure the ground, where it attaches to the frame, forward of the seat, is good, clean , and tight. That is known to get loose and cause issues. Battery cables are in good condition and clean, I live in the desert so there is verry little corrosion out here
Once I ensure the 12V system is up to spec, then I start my diagnosis looking for other things.
If you find an issue with the 12V system that you correct, then it may be possible to check for codes... I cant check for codes, Ive tried and when I push the trip button and turn the bike on it only reads the miles on the bike, it will not show the codes anymore. I was able to read them before I let the battery drain, since then I cant get them
Other than codes to help point you in the right direction, here are two quick suggestions;
I'm not sure what you are talking about when you say "i ended up having to replace the ground wire in the tank also."....? Inside the tank their are two wires to the fuel pump and two wires to the fuel level sending unit. Which wire was replaced, why, and how? In nay case this repair might need to be checked.. When I installed the new fuel pump It looks like I damages the ground wire causing it to break. It was the ground wire from the fuel pump. It was repaired by soldering a new wire in. there are no more issues with the fuel pump running, I think the bike is dying because the ignition.
Additionally, double check the connector on the top plate outside the tank. Often those pins can be bent while reattaching that connector, causing a bad or intermittent connection. All the pins are in good working order, the bike will start and idle well
Thanks for the feedback
That should help to get you started.
Others will also chime in with their ideas and experiences.
Just remember, when it comes to an electrical issue... be systematic, be thorough, and be persistent..
Good luck and keep us posted...
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,068
Likes: 11,086
From: San Diego, CA
If the battery checks out ok, the red key light would be my next hint.
It means there is an issue with the TSSM (or burned out bulb), the FOB, the wiring to the TSSM, or you have thrown a DTC.
Good luck and keep us posted..
It means there is an issue with the TSSM (or burned out bulb), the FOB, the wiring to the TSSM, or you have thrown a DTC.
Good luck and keep us posted..
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