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I've also changed my switch housings to the chrome housings that Harley offers. It wasn't too difficult. Like has been said, keep your eyes on those brass ferrules ( I believe they're called), they definitely will run away from you if you drop them. If you're not changing the master cylinder, you don't have to bleed brakes. Also, getting the "V" shaped spacer, for the brake light switch, back into positioncan be a pain. I didn't have a manual when I replaced mine - I found enough information on this forum with the search function to do it. There's a lot of information on this subject here. For me, the project wasmore tedious than being hard or difficult to understand. Do the throttle side first, then the clutch side will be a breeze.
Not to steal the thread, but mimo, have you had trouble with your grips? My outside rubber rings got soft and are falling apart, and of course, they don't make a replacement for them...you have to replace the grip.
Hi brother, happened to me too. Those damn rubber bands... I took all of 'em off, rode like that for a while and now I have a different set of grips... I'm grippin' these:
You do not have to bleed the brakes if you're just changing the switch housings. As mentioned above, the cable ferrules are a pain. It's a prettystraight forward task. Just remember, patience is a virtue!
I didn't replace my housings but I did switch to the crom switch covers. Getting the black covers off and the chrome ones on wasn't very difficult. Where I ran into trouble was tucking all the wires back into the housings correctly. When I was ready to put the switch housings back together I had a pretty big gap and I knew something was wrong. Everything worked OK but I had this big gap.
I ended up stopping in at Sheldons Harley Davidson in Auburn, MA. and a tech came outside to my bike and looked over the housings. He got some tools and we took the housings apart and he showed me how the wires tuck away into the housings so that no wires get pinched and that the housings then form a pretty tight seal against water. The H-D tech was really cool!
When you seperate the housings just take a good look as to how the wires are snaked into the housings.
If you run into any problems while doing the job, just post up and help will be on the way!! [sm=smiley20.gif]
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Took a little more then a half hour. Be sure to put a 1/4 inch piece of cardboard in the jam of the brake lever first (squeeze brake and insert cardboard in jam). This stops the brake light switch nipple from being damaged when separating the switch house from the lever assembly. It helps to loosen the threaded throttle adjuster all the way out, make a note of it's current distance first so you can return it back to that setting. This will give you more slack when removing the brass ferrules from the thottle grip. You will need a torx driver set to open the housing, and I think a small Phillips to remover the switch cluster from the housing. Disassemble the housing carefully so you can remember where everything went so you can do it in reverse during assembly. When housing is assembled you can remove the cardboard from the lever jam. Re-adjust the thottle adjustment on the cable making sure the thottle snaps back to idle position.
Thanks again for all of the information everyone. Maybe I'll get brave and replace the covers in the winter when I know the bike will be idle for a while!
Has anyone done these on their bikes? I have a '06 FB and would like to do get itbut am unsure how involved it is. The Harley catalog says there is no rewiring for the swith housing kit. Any info or opinionsare appreciated. Thanks!
Not a difficult job. Just pay close and carefull attention to the way the wiring harness is clamped to each housing. It's gets tight when you re attatch the switches andwires, if you don't have the harness clamped exactly like original, the housing halves won't fit together properly. As others commented keep tabs on the throttle cable ferrules when dissasembling the throttle housing. Make sure you jam a 5/32" drill in between the front brake lever and the housing so you don't break the stop light switch when removing the front brake master cyl. Good luck,
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