I've got a 2003 Heritage springer and the manual is pretty much worthles when it comes to adjusting the neck nut. It tells you to disconnect the clutch, break and throttle controls, then adjust the fall over distance to 1.5 inches. The problem is that with the hose and caliper on the left side, it falls over at different distances to the left and right. Any guidance as to a better adjustment procedure?

 

how many miles? my bike has over 15k , I have seen much discussion and complaints about neck bearing wear and it has been the cause of alot of angziaty I have tried adjustment with no sucsess. I have checked for exsess play and the dreadded steering pull or learned postion and not found any problem. I had a serious vibration in the front end that was traced down to a bad front tire . after that was replaced the bike rides like a dream !

 

Let me first make a disclaimer. Although I have restored cars, planes and motorcycles, I am not an expert on these front end, but I do have some opinions. This is the second springer and the one thing I have never been able to get an answer to is the adjustment of the front end. The manual tells you to measure the fall-away point. After jacking and leveling the bike, you must disconnect the cables to the controls and the throttle. The mark the center position of the front wheel then move the wheel to one side slowly. The point at which it falls away, is the fall-away point. Repeat in the other direction. Then the manual tells you to tighten or loosen the reck nut until both sides fall away between 1.5" and 2" (I think). The problem is that with the caliper, on the left side on mine, the fall-away to the left happens way before than it does to the right. An **** retentive solution might be to adjust it until the fall-away is a total of 3"-4". That would be off center, but I think it would be close. It would need some more math to get the correct adjustment.

I don't know why, but these front end neck bearings seem to wear more than the standard front end. What happens is the wear causes the races to wear in a football-shape with the points of the ball pointing fore and aft. THis is what causes the "memory", especially after a readjustment, because we normally adjust in a straight position and the steering wants to "cam" back to the center when you turn it. One way I can tell if the neck bearing is bad is that after adjustment, a rut in the road transfers the motion, usually absorbed by the front end, to the whole bike.

I have about 10,000 miles on the bike and don't anticipate a problem yet. However, since the adjustment is critical to maximizing the life of the bearing, I want to get it right. It sounds like you have several miles left.

One more thing. The later bikes have the zerk fitting for greasing in the neck. I grease every 2,000. If you don't have this fitting, I suggest you install one next time you work on the neck bearings.

 

HI MAN,
JUST A QUICK QUESTION......I HAVE JUST BOOKED A FATBOY 2005 BUT MY HEART IS STILL THINKING ABOUT THE SPRINGER CLASSIC....... WHY FATBOY BECAUSE I HAVE BEEN TOLD IT HANDLES BETTER ....... ANY ADVICE ........ I WOULD LOVE TO GET MYSELF A SPRINGER CLASSIC IF THE DIFFERENCE IN HANDLING WAS CLOSE ...... ITS MY FIRST HARLEY AND FIRST IN THE BIG BIKES CLASS TOO....
CHEERS

 

Here is my two cents. I've owned a dyna, standard springer and this heritage springer. I like the springer the best. I find it dives less in braking and turns. The downside of the springers is that they take more maintenance in the front end. Regarding the Fatboy I have two problems with it. First in a cross wind that solid front disc makes it a bit squirrly. Second, the goofy exhaust system that splits the passanger footpeg, makes it easier for your passenger to burn their shoe or leg, and if you want to put bags on it the size is small. Many Fatboy owners will put a 2 into 1 exhaust system. Other than that, I think it does handle well. So it really depends on your riding style.

 

Why would you think that the 'fall-away' would be different to one side if you are coming up with a good measurement for the other? The bike will withstand more than you, so adjust it as you apparently have and ride it for the feel. Do it again. Ride for the feel then set your fall-away as YOU like it. The manual is a basic set of guidelines to follow - you can set your bike up any damned way you like it!

My old bike has ball bearings in the neck, now setting that is a bitch. That's how I learned. The rollers are more tolerant of overtightening to the point of uncomfortable steering.

BClem

 

Good point. THat 's what I ended up doing. The reason for the difference in the fall-away measurement is that there is more weight on the side with the brake caliper. I didn't realize that they went to rollers. That's a much better design. Thanks for the input.