Wide Glide fork install process...(sorta long read)
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Wide Glide fork install process...(sorta long read)
I was working on my FXST last night to check out what appeared to be a fork leaking and from what I can gather the guy I got the bike from didn't put the forks in the trees correctly when he lowered it.
The forks were leaking from the top around where the top bolt goes holding the forks to the top clamp.
So here's what I did, since I don't yet have my service manual.
1. I got the front end off the ground of course, pulled the front wheel and took the top bolt out.
2. Loosened the lower clamp and slid the forks out to clean everything up.
3. I then noticed how the big Phillips screw on the outside of the top clamp wasn't really doing muchand the top of the fork was flat on the sides. So I slid the forks in and started the top bolt to hold the forks.
4. Next I installeda longer bolt into the hole of the top clamp to keep the fork from turning and tightened the top bolt (with the bottom clamp loose still).
5. I removed the longer bolt and tightened the bottom clamp before putting the wheel back on.
Does this sound correct? I think the guy I got it from slid the forks in and tightened the bottom clamp to keep the forks from spinning while he tightened the top bolt, leaving a small gap for oil to escape.
The forks were leaking from the top around where the top bolt goes holding the forks to the top clamp.
So here's what I did, since I don't yet have my service manual.
1. I got the front end off the ground of course, pulled the front wheel and took the top bolt out.
2. Loosened the lower clamp and slid the forks out to clean everything up.
3. I then noticed how the big Phillips screw on the outside of the top clamp wasn't really doing muchand the top of the fork was flat on the sides. So I slid the forks in and started the top bolt to hold the forks.
4. Next I installeda longer bolt into the hole of the top clamp to keep the fork from turning and tightened the top bolt (with the bottom clamp loose still).
5. I removed the longer bolt and tightened the bottom clamp before putting the wheel back on.
Does this sound correct? I think the guy I got it from slid the forks in and tightened the bottom clamp to keep the forks from spinning while he tightened the top bolt, leaving a small gap for oil to escape.
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From: Bellville, Tx
RE: Wide Glide fork install process...(sorta long read)
My WG forks have a rubber seal at the top, you didn't mention one in your post, could it be missing or don't the newer ones require it?
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RE: Wide Glide fork install process...(sorta long read)
Newer fork tubes (41mm) don't have a seal on the top. The upper seal is an O-ring inside the top of the tube around the plug.
If its leaking from the top, odds arethe O-ring may need replacing.
As for the order of assembly, that's the way I do it. Top bolt first, then the clamp, use a strap wrench to hold the tube if it turns on you.
Seems kind of dumb to do it otherwise as you'll beusing the top bolt to pull the tree's together and twisting the assembly all out of whack in the process.
If its leaking from the top, odds arethe O-ring may need replacing.
As for the order of assembly, that's the way I do it. Top bolt first, then the clamp, use a strap wrench to hold the tube if it turns on you.
Seems kind of dumb to do it otherwise as you'll beusing the top bolt to pull the tree's together and twisting the assembly all out of whack in the process.
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RE: Wide Glide fork install process...(sorta long read)
ORIGINAL: Citoriplus
Newer fork tubes (41mm) don't have a seal on the top. The upper seal is an O-ring inside the top of the tube around the plug.
If its leaking from the top, odds arethe O-ring may need replacing.
As for the order of assembly, that's the way I do it. Top bolt first, then the clamp, use a strap wrench to hold the tube if it turns on you.
Seems kind of dumb to do it otherwise as you'll beusing the top bolt to pull the tree's together and twisting the assembly all out of whack in the process.
Newer fork tubes (41mm) don't have a seal on the top. The upper seal is an O-ring inside the top of the tube around the plug.
If its leaking from the top, odds arethe O-ring may need replacing.
As for the order of assembly, that's the way I do it. Top bolt first, then the clamp, use a strap wrench to hold the tube if it turns on you.
Seems kind of dumb to do it otherwise as you'll beusing the top bolt to pull the tree's together and twisting the assembly all out of whack in the process.
There wasn't any seal that i saw so I went ahead and slapped a couple extra oil drain plug o-rings on the top bolts just to make sure. It seemed like there was a spot above the threads for one.
Thanks for the help guys. it makes me feel better.
BTW - the scooter is an 02.
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From: Rochester, NY
RE: Wide Glide fork install process...(sorta long read)
ORIGINAL: The Baron
Next time you do it just install a longer bolt into the hole that is on the top clamp. it will seat against the flat spot on top of the tube keeping it from turning, plus you won't need to worry about scratching your tubes.
Next time you do it just install a longer bolt into the hole that is on the top clamp. it will seat against the flat spot on top of the tube keeping it from turning, plus you won't need to worry about scratching your tubes.
Seems like a longer bolt will bottom out in the tube plug long beforethe tube seats.
Not sure how it is on the 02's but my 07 has a screw in the side of the upper tree that goes in from the side and fits a flat on the side of the plug. If you run it in almost all the way it will stop the tube from rotating while you tighten up the top bolt.
I only have to usea strap wrench on older or aftermarket tubes that don't have convieniences like that.
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RE: Wide Glide fork install process...(sorta long read)
Maybe yours is different but the big Phillips headed bolt on the side of theupper tree wasn't nearly long enough to keep the fork from rotating. I turnit all the way in and easily turned the fork by hand. I installed a longer bolt to seat semi snugly against the flat on the top of the fork to keep it from rotating while I tightened the top bolt. This allowed me to keep the bottom clamp loose and not need any other stuff to hold the fork.
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From: Rochester, NY
RE: Wide Glide fork install process...(sorta long read)
Sorry, I did missunderstand you, you were talking about using a longer bolt in the "side" hole, not the top one.
Your right, I just haven't had the need to pull the tubes out on mine yet, so I haven't actually tried to use the side screw for its intended use, yet.
I'll have to remember that I'll need a longer one when I do.
Thanks for the tip.
Your right, I just haven't had the need to pull the tubes out on mine yet, so I haven't actually tried to use the side screw for its intended use, yet.
I'll have to remember that I'll need a longer one when I do.
Thanks for the tip.
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RE: Wide Glide fork install process...(sorta long read)
ORIGINAL: Citoriplus
Sorry, I did missunderstand you, you were talking about using a longer bolt in the "side" hole, not the top one.
Your right, I just haven't had the need to pull the tubes out on mine yet, so I haven't actually tried to use the side screw for its intended use, yet.
I'll have to remember that I'll need a longer one when I do.
Thanks for the tip.
Sorry, I did missunderstand you, you were talking about using a longer bolt in the "side" hole, not the top one.
Your right, I just haven't had the need to pull the tubes out on mine yet, so I haven't actually tried to use the side screw for its intended use, yet.
I'll have to remember that I'll need a longer one when I do.
Thanks for the tip.
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Rochester, NY
RE: Wide Glide fork install process...(sorta long read)
Funny, I'll bet I have a couple of them laying around in the bottom of my tool cabinet. Its amazing how many bits and pieces youcollect in 40 or so years working on different vehicles.
How about instead of using a short Allen bolt, use one that actually does (lightly) contact the plug flat. Then put a small washer under it so it doesn't touch.
That way whenever you do need to mess with the tube you have a ready made "holder" already in place.
How about instead of using a short Allen bolt, use one that actually does (lightly) contact the plug flat. Then put a small washer under it so it doesn't touch.
That way whenever you do need to mess with the tube you have a ready made "holder" already in place.
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