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Slotted risers FXSTC

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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 10:33 PM
  #21  
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Default RE: Slotted risers FXSTC

Incidentally, these are dogbone risers.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6-CHR...mZ370043434573

What can I say. Sometimes I get confused. Pullback risers look kinda like bones. NOT!
 
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 08:38 AM
  #22  
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Default RE: Slotted risers FXSTC

I see, 6" is alot of rise with no pullback. Have you fixed it yet? Just curious what you went with.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 10:01 AM
  #23  
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Default RE: Slotted risers FXSTC

Nothing yet. I was posting that for illustration purposes. I called Harley yesterday to ask the service guys, who in my area are pretty knowledgeable. They say they haven't done one yet, and after checking the book, as I did, they couldn't tell me. I'd hate to have to do braided cables for the install, and then want apes later. One brake line isn't a problem, but if I start getting into all of the cables and wiring, I think maybe 16s on the stock risers would be better.

I also found a posting that said that the stock bars are actually 1.25 inches. I am not certain of this yet. If they are, then in order to keep the risers I have, I have to get bars that aren't stepped down to one inch, or change the risersout. Ouch. It gets more expensive every time I look at it. Problem with pre wired kits is they want you to buy all new controls. If all you need is switches, they are about 150. The new switches come with longer wires that probably do not need to be spliced. At least they used to be like that. And I have seennon Harley switches that are cheaper.

Biggest issue for me in all of this is bleeding the brakes, and dropping the tank to get to the plugs. I can do everything else myself, but I've never done the brakes before, and there are tools that are needed. I may grow a pair and attempt it, but if I end up doing the controls and the bars myself, I had better have the brakes right, or I won't have any at all.

I am also guessing that the risers do not have rubber isolators in them, like some of the other bars do, as they are pretty solid. I have heard of people whose bars have cracked when going higher because the risers flexed under the additional torque. So, they may need poly bushings instead of rubber, but I am not sure yet. Then there's the added issue of having to put 1.25 bars on it. They are always wider than the triple trees, and do not look as good as one inch bars that are even with the triple tree. More issues if the wiring goes insde,since one inch bars have a tendency to bend if the are not manufactured for and have to be drilled for wiring.

I am up pretty early this morning. Waiting on a phone call. If I am rambling, that's my excuse. I'll keep you posted as I find things out.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 11:35 AM
  #24  
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Default RE: Slotted risers FXSTC

Im pretty sure that the stock bars are 1" and not 1 1/4". Because the Fat Mini-Ape HandlebarP# - 56832-04 are 1 1/4" thick.

 
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 02:30 PM
  #25  
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Default RE: Slotted risers FXSTC

Yep, and they use the same style risers, but they are a replacement. I read in another thread that they are 1.25 on the BOB and the Custom, so I am not sure. I know the ones on the glide comes in chrome while these are stainless. In the meantime, the slotted risers are for one inch bars, so you may probably be right.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 04:33 PM
  #26  
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Default RE: Slotted risers FXSTC

Hey im no expert man. lol. Guess the best way to find out is to measure the stock bars.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 04:41 PM
  #27  
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Default RE: Slotted risers FXSTC

My o7 custom has 1" bars.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 05:09 PM
  #28  
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Default RE: Slotted risers FXSTC

Hey Stretchman, Did you see these?

HD Deluxe Risers fs
 
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 09:52 PM
  #29  
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Default RE: Slotted risers FXSTC

Yeah, checked them out. They're ok, I guess. Not really what I wanted. Still am indecisive on whether or not I am going to do the risers or apes. I can get 16 Kromewerks locally for about 57 dollars. If I have to do a line swap and extend the wires all that's left is clutch and throttle. I was an electrical systems specialist on jets in the Air Force, so the wiring work isn't a real biggie. By the time the risers are done they are at 15. Plus 90 for the new brake line, so 220 to do that. Only about 100 bucks more to do real apes. They'd be at 17.

If the brake line was longer, I could get risers and caps for about 50 bucks. If it's going to turn into a project, and I have to pull the tank to get to the bundle, then doing apes is just a couple hours more work. So, I am thinking about which way to go. If I do go with the risers, they're probably going to be the slotted ones. I may wait to get the bread to do the whole project and do it all at once, the risers and extended controls.

The risers dolook good though, and it might be enough. So, I gotta sleep on it some, and figure out what I want to do.
 
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