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Changing Bars and stuff

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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 08:21 PM
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Post Changing Bars and stuff

Ordering some new bars for my Deluxe. Plan on putting steel braided cables and hoses at the same time. How difficult is it to take off the switch housings and run the wiring inside the new bars? Does it require soldering? Something a do it yourself can do or should I leave this for the dealer? Also changing out the Master cylinder to chrome...I know how to bleed the brakes but how difficult will it be installing the master cylinder? Thanks for any input....
 
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 09:07 PM
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Just finished a HD Beach bar install last month on my Deluxe. You'll need: Manual, Tools, Gaskets (Derby...You'll probably have to adjust the clutch and Transmission side cover....clutch cable install), Fluids (Transmission and Primary... it's too cheap not to), S.S. cross-over line ( Gas tank) or original clamps to reconnect..... You DON'T have to solder, just have to disassemble the connectors under the tank (Make a wiring diagram or I recommend digital photos). Depending on bar length, you may need a wire extension kit (J&P or other source). When you pull the tank protect the rocker covers with rags to prevent scratching. Master cylinder is a simple bolt up and I recommend the a Mighty-vac for bleeding......................It's getting late .....PM me if you decide to take on the project...Hope this helps
 
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 09:28 PM
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I extended the wires by cutting them and soldering a length of wire and covering the new connections with heat shrink. I was able to avoid removing the tank by doing so. Also if you decide to splice, stagger the cuts so that it's easier to feed through the bars. Do yourself a favor anf cover the tank, fender etc. with a towel to avoid scratches from paint hungry tools. Service manual is a must.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 09:44 PM
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You do not have to remove the tank. Remove the bolts, put rags over the rocker covers, spray wd40 between the tank and rubber frame cover. Slide tank back towaRDS THE SEAT, EXPOSING THE CONNECTORS.

You do not say what year your bike is. If you have dot 4 brake fluid, it is almost an instant paint remover, be careful. If it is dot 4 brake fluid, use Harle banjo washers or copper washers.

You also need to put a zip tie or piece of cardboard between the brake lever and brake light switch, it is easily damaged.

Just saw you have an 06, it is dot 4 fluid. You will need the right tools, including dece nt snap ring pliers.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 09:49 PM
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Guess if I keep the stock bars and add chrome controls it would be much easier....I dont have an issue with the stock bars except for the **** poor wiring job the moco does on them..every Harley should have internal wiring..hands down...Im thinking its beyond my ability to remove the tank...hmmm...either that or I drop some coin to have the dealer do this for me....sigh...
 
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 09:52 PM
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Well this sounds promising....Just dont wanna have to pull the whole tank...I know it can be a PITA especially with little experience....

Originally Posted by crazybastid83
You do not have to remove the tank. Remove the bolts, put rags over the rocker covers, spray wd40 between the tank and rubber frame cover. Slide tank back towaRDS THE SEAT, EXPOSING THE CONNECTORS.

You do not say what year your bike is. If you have dot 4 brake fluid, it is almost an instant paint remover, be careful. If it is dot 4 brake fluid, use Harle banjo washers or copper washers.

You also need to put a zip tie or piece of cardboard between the brake lever and brake light switch, it is easily damaged.

Just saw you have an 06, it is dot 4 fluid. You will need the right tools, including dece nt snap ring pliers.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 06:11 AM
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I found one of the more difficult things was getting the snap ring off the inside of the transmission cover to change out the clutch cable.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by oldgeezer
I found one of the more difficult things was getting the snap ring off the inside of the transmission cover to change out the clutch cable.
Getting the go()*&(&^^&$%$%%^&^&**&(*(*(*((*(*(**(*&(*&(&^*^&* thing back in for me.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 06:57 AM
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Warrior ditto on what has been said. the tank doesn;t have to come off unless you really want to get a birds-eye view of the bike, and not worrying about dropping tools on your tank. the tank comes off pretty easy anyways. worse part is emptying the tank. But, you also can just slide the tank down the main frame with good results. Just be careful and disconnect fuel gauge connector before pulling the tank back.
The left and right control connector wires are easy enough to disassemble with a small paper clip. Just takes patience...

I went overboard and built my own extension wires with the proper HD male and female pins. Much easier than cut and soldering, with HD would do. I went with Magnum Chromite cables and lines. real nice and I think are etter than HD DiamondBacks.

Don;t know where you live, but if your putting bike up for the winter, that's a good time to do this. You won't feel like you need to hurry up and get it done. I did all my work last winter, and took my time, and had a blast doing it.

Just make sure and buy yourself that Service Manual!! Fell free to ask questions about any of what you need to do...
 
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