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Hmmm... I had my front wheel replaced from a 16" to a 21", no problem at all... Why don't you try what was brought up, using only one balancing... It may be actually resonating at certain frequencies and I think the adequate balancing could solve that (from my previous experience with cars) bad balancing can "make" the resonance range wider with the engine's shaking in the equation...
I didn't read the entire thread so I'm hoping your issue is resolved. Your blaming the wheel, (okay, read more and it may be the weight of the wheel on your model)
Per your original post,
I have zero issue with the same wheels on my Fat Boy. They are perfect. I'm not sure if it's a compatibility issue with your model, (per some additional replies) the installation, balancing ect. I wish I could help but you mentioned they should be testing them before selling them, thus my post. There is nothing wrong with my Blade Wheels on my Fat Boy.
edit: Perhaps the Fat Boy can handle the extra weight. (I hope you find your fix).
If it really is an issue with the forks and engine. You need to change the dynamics involved.
The quickest and simplest way I can think of is to add a fork brace.
That will drastically alter the resonent frequency of the fork tubes and should stop the vibrations completely.
As a bonus it will stiffen up those long thin fork legs to make leaning it over hard in the twisties a bit more fun and less 'exciting'.
If it really is an issue with the forks and engine. You need to change the dynamics involved.
The quickest and simplest way I can think of is to add a fork brace.
That will drastically alter the resonent frequency of the fork tubes and should stop the vibrations completely.
As a bonus it will stiffen up those long thin fork legs to make leaning it over hard in the twisties a bit more fun and less 'exciting'.
Have the fork brace, but the flex area is at the lower triple clamp. FL front ends are shorter, less rake, and could be larger dia making them stiffer. I do have a crank in this thing with considerable run out on the sprocket and it's not as smooth as it should be, which could be just enough to get the whole mess started. Maybe the compensator is setting up a pulse as well. Remember those days of really long glide front ends and super long springers how at an idle the forks would shake. Well same idea here but the engine gets to a certain load causing it to start shaking. More load, more shake, until the load is removed. I've done most of the suggestions here with no effect or even a slight change. It would seem that in order to solve this I need to alter the load frequency somehow to stop the tubes from vibrating. At it's worst while looking down at the axle it's a bit of a blur and the top of the tire is about 1/2" of hop. Pull the clutch in, and it all stops dead. For the time being I'll stick the stock spoke wheel back on until a solution is found. Really like the looks of the blade but don't want to beat the snot out of the front end just to look cool.
Ron
Yes I remember the long tubes that vibrated at idle, but remember they also used older unbalanced engines that idled slower and rougher than the present crop of "B" series twinkie engines.
If you already have a fork brace, I'm a bit stumped. But you may be on to something with the bent crank/sprocket idea. Though I'm not sure I understand exactly how its all coming together.
This may sound a bit off the wall, but I think its time for something like that. But have you double checked the engine/tranny/primary tie together and frame mounting bolts?
Seems to me that if the engine is vibrating, or causing a vibration that's that bad something has to be loose somewhere.
Your bike is the only one that I have ever heard of with this kind of problem so it has to be something that's unique to yours and I can't believe that a wheel alone could be a cause of it.
Keep us updated on how the stock wheel works and what you eventually find out.
I know this is gonna sound dumb, but did they balance the wheel with the rotor installed and have you checked to make sure it was torqued on evenly and straight (no runout)?
I know it shouldn't have any effect on the engine load 'thing'. But I remember someone telling me about tracing a strange wheel vibration back to a rotor that was installed improperly.
I'd dump those beads out before I tried anything else. Is it possible that with enough vibrations that the beads may deflect off the tire or rim and start to bunch up instead of spread themselves out even?
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