Stock Heritage Bars?
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 238
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From: Newnan, GA
Stock Heritage Bars?
I know I saw a post before that said you could swap out stock heritage bars w/ another newer bike w/ out having to change wires and cables. I thinks they were some kinda of dyna bars. They said the bars mights be a slight bit taller but where alot more comfortable.
Basically I have a 2004 FLSTC w/ stock bars pushed fowards like mini apes. This in turn, turns the handles up which makes it uncomfortable. Basically the other bars do the same thing but put the handles at a more comfortable position.
Anyone know what I'm talking about?
Basically I have a 2004 FLSTC w/ stock bars pushed fowards like mini apes. This in turn, turns the handles up which makes it uncomfortable. Basically the other bars do the same thing but put the handles at a more comfortable position.
Anyone know what I'm talking about?
Road Captain
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 565
Likes: 126
From: Chandler, AZ
Hmm; I've always thought the stock Heritage bars are the absolute best bars H-D has. Don't mean to be too basic here, but did you try loosening the clamps and just rotating the bars back/down some for a better fit? Agree they are too far forward as they come from the factory.
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 7,580
Likes: 7
From: The Internet (& Dyer, Indiana)
Hmm; I've always thought the stock Heritage bars are the absolute best bars H-D has. Don't mean to be too basic here, but did you try loosening the clamps and just rotating the bars back/down some for a better fit? Agree they are too far forward as they come from the factory.
Try adding some risers that curve in toward you, maybe that will get them where you need them.
On my last Heritage (04), I put on some mini apes. They had a 10 inch rise. They got rid of the dog ear look, fit me perfect (looked way taller than they were). But there was a sacrifice. While my hands ended up nearly the same place as stock, the improved angle on my wrist came with a price. New cables, as well has the wire extension kits. The kits were plug and play and were around $30, but cables were expensive.
I left my 08 alone because of that. It just wasn't worth the costs and effort. But I sure was surprised though, to find out that 10 inch mini apes were basically the same hight as stock but with the different angles. Very costly angles.
Mine fit me pretty well. If I make any changes at all it will likely be risers only, but I doubt that I even fool with it.
Those Heritage bars really need to be leaned back toward the rider to look right. Going forward really makes them look odd to me. The grips just point too much upward like some silly ears of some sort.
Also, keep in mind that certain bars look great until you put the windshield on, (then they make you wanna barf).
Look at the horizontal metal strip across my windshield, compared to the outer end of the throttlegrip. Basically the same hight, but way different angle, and deceptively way bigger looking handlebar. The apes look huge, but my hands ended up in nearly the same locations. More comfortable angle on the wrist, for sure, but worth the effort? Dunno. Lot of effort involved. Running the wires inside the bars was a nice touch.
Last edited by Faast Ed; Dec 19, 2009 at 03:55 PM.
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Any late model year Wide Glide bars will work, but since the picture was taken I've changed them again and used these from JP Cycles. They fit with all the stock stuff no problem, and priced right. Just a little taller. No association with JP Cycles......
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/5000395
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/5000395
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Tourer
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 417
Likes: 1
From: Spartanburg, South Carolina
Like FaastEd said, there is definitely a price for changing bars. I put 12.5" Wild 1 Chubbys on and although it is without a doubt (Mustang seat a close second!) the best mod I've done to my bike it cost. $210 for the bars...no big deal there. Had them done at the factory because they are internally wired (heard its a real PITA to do). Labor was 3hrs @ $80/hr. So add $240. Now cables! Had to go +4" and +6" plus a 12" wire harness extension.
I went with Barnetts cables and you need a clutch, throttle, idle & brake plus the wire harness. Five cables at apporximately $50 each (some are even more). Thats another $300! Grand total = $210 Bars, $240 Labor, $300 Cables. $750!!!
Like I said, for me it was well worth it as I find the apes to be soooo comfortable. Hands a little higher than stock, a much better wrist angle and more pullback! Also, like Ed said some bars look terrible with a windshield. If you set apes up right, I think they look great any way. If you go to my album, you can see that they even line up perfect with the angle that my windshield is set at so the lines flow windshield on or off. IMO
P.S.- According to Wild 1, you do not need to change cables on the Heritage (only bend brake line) if you only go to 10" mini apes so you save at least $300 or so!
Steve
I went with Barnetts cables and you need a clutch, throttle, idle & brake plus the wire harness. Five cables at apporximately $50 each (some are even more). Thats another $300! Grand total = $210 Bars, $240 Labor, $300 Cables. $750!!!
Like I said, for me it was well worth it as I find the apes to be soooo comfortable. Hands a little higher than stock, a much better wrist angle and more pullback! Also, like Ed said some bars look terrible with a windshield. If you set apes up right, I think they look great any way. If you go to my album, you can see that they even line up perfect with the angle that my windshield is set at so the lines flow windshield on or off. IMO
P.S.- According to Wild 1, you do not need to change cables on the Heritage (only bend brake line) if you only go to 10" mini apes so you save at least $300 or so!
Steve
Last edited by Heritage632; Dec 19, 2009 at 04:04 PM.