I just picked up my '06 Heritage Softail (not Classic). I find the stock handlebars to be very uncomfortable. I don't know why Harley didn't put the Heritage Classic bars on this bike. Any of you owners of this bike think the bars are uncomfortable?

 

i find that they are not as uncomfortable as i thought they would be....before i bought the bike i was thinking they looked way to short for me (im a tall drink of water)! but the salesman convinced me to give them a try, and i have to agree not as bad as i was thinking. i will probably swap them out for taller ones in the future....but for now, they'll do!

 

These bars on the Heritage (Non-Classic) are a different bar.. The Heritage Classic FLSTC has taller "mini-ape" still bars for setup for touring. The Heritage bars look like (from pics on the H-D site) like a little bit narrower version of the low buckhorns similar to Fatboy bars.
You can swap to the Classic bars (as I did), which will lean you back further from leaning forward.. longer reach. Might like them better than the stock bars and it's a $50ish upgrade. I checked the parts book for OEM numbers and the cables on my fatboy were all the same# as the heritage classic, so I didn't have to swap any cables. So that's one cheap correction if you didn't like the stock FLST bars.

What I'm eventually going to do, is do the cable swaps to braided stainless, and go with some chubby 10" or 12" apes, that are fairly close in geometry to the classic bars as far as wrist position. Since I plan on doing the chrome front end and switches at the same time, I've been procrastinating for a couple years now on the swap. hehehe It's about a $700 deal in parts alone I think.

 

I changed out the stock bars on my 06FLSTI to the mini-apes used on the 06 Street Bob.No need to change any cables or lines,just fits.If you go with anything taller/larger,the cables need changed.Regards,Tom

 

I have had Heritage Classics before and found the stock bars very comfortable. A new set in chrome is $50.00 from the H-D dealer. Stainless bars which are stock, are $54.00. I am thinking about running the wires inside the handlebars so would have to go with the stainless since the chrome bars would peel if I drilled for internal wiring.
Also considered a set of Wideglide bars. Very similar to the heritage bars, just a little wider and a different hand position.

 

I just finished putting a set of Wideglide 10" mini-apes on the Heritage. Did not have to change the cables, brake line or wiring. I was able to pull a bit more wiring and had to re-bend the brake line. Only problem is will be when I add a windshield. The turn signals, which are on the handlebars, will be parially covered by the windshield.

 

I had the bars adjusted at the dealer when I picked mine up and I find them very comfortable, even on longer rides. I'm average height - about 5'10".

 

Shep...Great Post! I am looking into the same thing as you. As a matter of fact, I called around today looking for 12" apes. I have found that I would need longer cables and everything as well, so may wait on the 12" chubbys for now and go with a stock bar. I rode a Heritage classic which had a much higher bar than mine. They have a rise of 8.5" and 5 inch pull back. 31.25 tip to tip and a part number of 56569-86. A dealer on the phone told me about some wide glide bars that sounded taller. You got a part number so i can look at the measurements? Also....what about some pics? That would be awesome..
Now, on the turn signals. I just came in ..believe it or not...from taking one of mine off and looking to relocate it . Similiar to this previous thread https://www.hdforums.com/m_580747/tm.htm . To my amazement, the lower screw holding the tins on is the same thread as the turn signals. I will have to confirm tommorrow at work as I am a machinist, but with a scale from here at home they appear to be 5/16-24 thread. I am going to go and buy(or make using a bolt) a stainless 5/16-24 stud about 1.5" long, and have 2 thin jam nuts on each as well. Screw the stud into the tins and lock with thin nut. Screw on other nut, screw on turn signal and tighten jam nut against signal. Nice , clean and tight against tins in lower screw.
Now, a question. I can relocate signals easy enough...and down the road I am sure theres a way of still using a windshield with longer studs or something I can modify..but I am not doing windshield now. What I want to now is how hard it would be to unplug the turn signals and reroute the wiring behind the tins ? I would look ok to move them down the way its routed though the trees, but would be even better straight in behind the tins and along frame under the tank. totally hidden.
Just some ideas. Will definately clean up the handle bars of some clutter and wiring. With internal wiring for switches that would be it!
Pics and pics please! Info on wiring being able to unplug also!
Thanks guys.

 

I went out and got the 6 inch risers. Works great. Bars are comfortable now. Do not need new cables.

 

When I had a Heritage I put mini apes on it, no need to change cables or wires and are a lot more comfortable. It brought my hands up and a little closer together. Looks better too IMO.